Would you buy a 2007 V70 2.5T with 170k with P0302 and P0243

iamhives · Post by **iamhives** » 30 Aug 2021, 13:31

I've always owned V70 2.4 NA for the reason that I didn't want the complication and lower reliability of a turbo. I need to buy another car for my family and the best one I've found so far is a 2007 2.5T with 170k miles misfire and P0302 (cylinder 2 misfire) and P0243 (wastegate solenoid) codes. Any suggestions on what the problems might be and how to rule out serious problems. I'm reasonably handy so can fix any thing that isn't to serious. I have VIDA but will have to travel a reasonable distance to see the car so trying to diagnose from afar right now..

93SCMax · Post by **93SCMax** » 30 Aug 2021, 15:17

P0302 is either the spark plug or coil (or both). Can't help ya with the P0243 but my 20 YO T5 has never have a problem with the turbo so I don't consider it lower reliability. With a turbo, keep the oil clean and don't over speed it before shutdown.

Good luck.

iamhives · Post by **iamhives** » 30 Aug 2021, 22:28

Thanks for the input. Spark plug or coil does seem the most likely for P0302 but want to make sure its not something more serious like head gasket, burnt valve, rings or something equally diabolical. I guess a compression test would be the most definitive test but not sure if the owner would be OK letting me do that (apart from the fact I've never done a compression test before although it looks pretty easy) . Any way to differentiate plugs or coil from something more difficult just based on symptoms?

Based on some research P0243 may be MAF, vacuum leak or maybe waste gate related. Again any way to differentiate based on symptoms. Seems like some of these this show up when cold vs hot which might be a clue but unfortunately the car owner obviously isn't a car person. This by itself might be the decision since it probably means the car was neglected in general

Challenge in all of this is that the car is relatively far away so trying to decide if its even worth seeing and obviously remote diagnosis is a bit like doing diagnosis on this thread!

Post by **cn90** » 30 Aug 2021, 23:34

Be patient and look for P2 with 100K nearby, it will show up, but you need to wait.
I have bought car from far away before, big mistake, never again.
Always, always wait for local deal (within 1-2h drive) to show up, if you can wait...

Post by **matthew1** » 30 Aug 2021, 23:50

iamhives wrote: ↑30 Aug 2021, 22:28 Any way to differentiate plugs or coil from something more difficult just based on symptoms?

Clear codes
Swap plug and coil with those of another cylinder
Test

Or swap in plug/coil from your current V70 (“known good”).

jkatz · Post by **jkatz** » 31 Aug 2021, 04:36

If the car you are looking at has any deferred maintenance it probably has a lot of deferred maintenance, so I think you need to account for it in your decision.

I just bought a local 2007 2.5T with 170k miles, my first turbo P2 after owning a reliable NA P2 and a most unreliable 1984 242 turbo. Most of my codes were ABS and DEM and ECM fuel related, but it had a bunch of other obvious issues - broken spring, clogged PCV, clogged heater core, and every wear item was worn: tires, brakes, wipers all around including the worm gear in the rear wiper gearbox, shocks, light bulbs, and some cosmetic trim pieces. To fix my ABS code was simply a new reluctor ring, but the DEM got a new pump, and the entire fuel system was replaced with Bosch. The PCV was as clogged as they get, and I still need to install the front camshaft seals and timing belt kit, plus the new heater core. I’ll probably never fix the AC. There is a little bit of oil leak on top of the turbo, I need to investigate further.
All in all I think it’s now a decent car - I’m confident it will always bring me home, it is more peppy than my 2.4NA, and I wanted a new AWD ski vehicle. I’d possibly do it again if I had to, even having seen what other P2 cars sold locally in the 8 months since I bought mine. But so far I’ve got about $4000 in parts in it (including two sets of tires and a second set of wheels) and it was in my garage for 3 months as I worked through its issues after the kids went to bed, so if I had paid more for it I’d be well beyond what feels like a economical purchase.

Post by **vtl** » 31 Aug 2021, 06:18

As an owner of both N/A and 2.5T AWD wagons I can say that N/A has half car less to fix

If you can make it with less power and no AWD - look further, IMO.

B5254T2 engine compartment is badly thermally stressed, which affects just everything under the hood. Meanwhile, B5244S was going along just fine. It wasn't consuming a cheap oil or even cosiderably darkening it between 5k miles OCI. Will easily last you well beyond 300k miles w/o major overhauling.

iamhives · Post by **iamhives** » 31 Aug 2021, 08:57

Yes, my gut says get a 2005 - 2007 2.4NA with FWD (which is what I have now in my 2006). Right now the majority of the cars in a reasonable distance seem to be older, 2.5T or have no record of the last timing belt or all of the above. I'm in no real hurry so can wait. But the used car market is a little strange right now.

Georgeandkira · Post by **Georgeandkira** » 05 Sep 2021, 14:40

While seeking a vehicle like ours you must have cash on hand AND be ready to buy.

Post by **SuperHerman** » 06 Sep 2021, 08:46

First - I do not trust codes unless I know the scanner. Been down the path too many times with bad codes from a non-dedicated scanner. If the codes are from VIDA I would trust them, after that one needs to know how good the scanner software is for the specific vehicle application. But you have the information you have so let us address what we have. Assumed is you have not tested the vehicle and just have a listing information or phone call.

You state: "P0302 (cylinder 2 misfire) and P0243 (wastegate solenoid) codes" . Both codes can be related to the 243 code, it triggering the 302. 243 can be exactly what it says - a bad wastegate solenoid. An easy fix even a used solenoid or cleaning of the current one may cure. Cheaper yet is a failed hose in the turbo plumbing a visual inspection would resolve. Also possible is improper routing - also a cheap fix. Here you have to know some history and actually look at the plumbing. Once the plumbing is confirmed then a vacuum test can be performed and a test of the solenoid itself. If all this checks out examination of the waste gate for binding would be the next step as well as watching the diaphragm for proper movement. A vacuum test would clarify as well as some history - did the owner play with anything. Once the 243 code is addressed you can look into the 302 if it is still there.

MAF is a possibility for both codes. Check for air leaks - unmetered air will cause all sorts of issues. Air filter a possibility, cheap ones don't seal well. Visual inspection and history help. Go through all the plumbing and inspect, a smoke test helps, but many times visual will tell you.

Moving on, the suggestions to swap coils is a good cheap path. Driving the car is your best source of information, after the codes are cleared and the car is cycled a few times. Volvos don't code immediately in some situations so the car has to be cycled. If you have an immediate code that usually points to a failed part. You can try unplugging the suspect part and see if code behavior is the same, pointing to hard part failure. You can even pull the MAF connector and run it on closed loop and see what happens. Not a long term solution, but a solid test resolution approach.

A leak down or compression test will tell you if you have a bad valve or valve seat. My experience is if oil is not changed and the car has higher mileage the cams can get furry with build up causing some issues. Usually this is on 4 and 5 cylinder. Not so much 2 as it is right under the oil filler cap.

170k is not a mileage I would be afraid of if the car is in good condition and the price is right. The 2.5T is a great engine and will go well into the 250k range without too many issues. I would also do a glove test to check the health of the PCV system before ordering a single part, as it may need servicing. With the intake off you can get a peak at some of the valves and their conditions.

I am not sure of your skills, but at the right price the car would be worth buying. Worse case scenario you need a new used motor, next you need to pull the head and have it rebuilt. Much of the rebuild you can do and you should be in and out for $500 with a new top end. If the timing belt and water pump have not been serviced this all gets done at the same time, as well as the PCV plumbing. All in, you doing the labor except for decking the head, under $1000, but some long hours.

This is worst case scenario - it could be a bad solenoid and coil pack/spark plug, a cheap air filter, crumbling hose or something cheap and easy.

Wrapping up, take the price of the car, your abilities, condition of the car and worse case scenario and decide. Personally I like fixing them, and if you were next door I would happily help. My gut feeling is a bad coil pack and/or spark plug plus some crumbling hoses on the turbo plumbing. Buying used parts, other than spark plug and hoses you can be in and out for under $100.00. Only way to limit your risk is to inspect spark plug, swap coils, compression test and visually examine the turbo hose plumbing. I don't think the seller will be opposed, but the price may go up if what you find is $50 in parts and an hour of labor.