Question about MAF sensor

[Holiday]

96' Turbo Wagon

1st question I wanted to ask is do MAF sensors suddenly go bad? Seemed one day the car was running fine and the next it wouldn't even maintain idle after start. I am due for a tune up but this problem seemed new. Someone recommended me to disconnect the MAF sensor and start the car and see if it runs better. Well I did that and sure enough the car idles normally. Just wondering if it could be anything else or if indeed MAF sensors do suddenly die. On a side note I have had performance issues with the car particularly when accelerating. The CAT was cut out as believed it was clogged and creating back pressure. The car ran a little better but would choke up if you hammered on the accelerator. It was also mentioned to me that the residing performance issues are most likely due to the fact the car hadn't a tune up in a very long time and was probably running the original spark plugs, wires, etc. which are worn out. Then one day I started the car and it sounded horrible and would stall out.

2nd question is can I drive the car without the MAF sensor connected? I just need to get it to the local auto shop.

[Sveedy]

If your worried about the MAF, then I'd go to the breaker and pick up another MAF for diagnostic purposes.
I think when you change out plugs, wires, cap etc. it will be fine again. Not sure how often the MAF goes bad.
As to driving a short distance with it disconnected - just give it a try and see. I'm sure it won't run right, but it's not anyway.

[abscate]

When running well , your 850 uses the mAF sensor to precisely measure the air going in
To the engine to meter fuel.

If the mAF is disconnected your engine guesses at the air flow by measuring rpms

Disconnecting the MAF doesn’t work as a diagnostic as the engine guess is pretty close.

Mafs rarely fail. Cap rotor plugs wires vacuum leaks fail about 300:1 over MAF failure

[Holiday]

Thanks for the reply. I have to wait a week before I can get the tune up done and I'm on a limited timeline to get the car back on the road. It was a dramatic difference when I unplugged the MAF sensor. With it plugged in the car sputtered badly and would stall out in about 20-30 seconds. I unplugged the MAF and started the car and it would idle normally. If I unplugged the MAF and the sputtering and stall still happened wouldn't that indicate that the MAF is not the issue? I did clean the MAF sensor and that didn't resolve anything with it plugged in.

[Sveedy]

I went down this MAF rabbit hole myself - Unplugged it and things seemed to smooth out. Went and pulled a used one from the breaker. Same thing. So I figured that one was bad also. Ordered a new replacement one. Same problem. Still have that one in the box on shelf, as well as the used replacement. Turned out to be a vacuum leak.
Just say'in...

[abscate]

I unplugged the MAF and the sputtering and stall still happened wouldn't that indicate that the MAF is not the issue?

No, it would be indeterminate.

[cn90]

My 1998 V70 wagon MAF failed in 2011 at 100K miles. I unplugged it to drive in "limp-home" mode.

New Bosch MAF solved the problem. It is a very very easy DIY. Just screwdriver and done.
Pay attention to the large O-ring, put the O-ring on the MAF first before installation to avoid damage to the O-ring.

[Holiday]

Thanks again. For the input.

[cn90]

I am going from memory but MAF for NA and Turbo is the same PN (I need some gurus to confirm this).

- Volvo $300, Bosch $250, Bremi $120.

- Rmeuropean ships from SSF warehouse in San Francisco, so it is closer to BC.
When buying parts from US ---> Canada, ask to be shipped by Post Office (instead of Fedex, UPS etc.) to avoid headache...

- I personally trust Bremi, it is as good as Bosch...

https://www.rmeuropean.com/Make/Volvo/1 ... alogID=012