Is it time for a new automatic gearbox ?

[greffel]

A couple of test attempts:

From cold start the gearbox behaves like normal :


But after 5-10 min it won't engage the gears.
Turning the engine off and let it rest for 1 minute will make the gearbox work for like 30 sec:


When it works you can feel and hear the gears engage.

[vtl]

With the engine on, could you check ATF level when it does not want to move?

[greffel]

I left the garage now, but the picture of the dipstick was with cold engine and earlier today the level was the same warm.

....have to double check that tomorrow.
The picture is from just pulling it from a cold engine

[firstv70volvo]

A couple of test attempts:
...

When it works you can feel and hear the gears engage.

Based on the videos I'm going to say it is a clogged filter and checking pressures could help verify.

I attached my notes about cleaning the filter externally through an added hole in the transmission case for direct access to the filter inlet. Some drill the case hole and poke holes in the filter and I thought about doing this with my transmission but wanted to leave open the option of rebuilding the transmission and didn't want all the crud going through the valve body and trans internals. By cleaning the filter with a brush and brake cleaner the filter mesh isn't damaged but it's still a temporary solution to get the transmission working again. I did rebuild my transmission within a few hundred miles of cleaning the filter so I don't know how long the cleaned up filter would have lasted but I was able to get the filter 90% or more clean and verified this when rebuilding the transmission. Cleaning the filter restored my transmission shifting and I actually think it could have gone many of thousands of miles more although the reason the filter was clogged was from some pretty worn clutch friction plates. This clutches probably had 5k-10K more miles left, maybe more.
If you need your car drivable cleaning the filter will likely get your transmission working again and give you time to search for another good used transmission or save for a rebuild. Just an option to consider.

AW55-50SN filter cleaning through added drain hole.pdf

(1.93 MiB) Downloaded 109 times

[greffel]

We have some creative minds in the forum This looks like something I will try for sure.

Would it be possible for you to take a picture and mark a little bit better exactly where I should drill?
There is no way to reach inside the filter from the normal drain plug hole ?

The hole point is to get right into the "mouth" of the filter and then mechanically remove the dirt.
Would it be possible to loosen the dirt with carb cleaner and then use a strong suction device?

[firstv70volvo]

We have some creative minds in the forum This looks like something I will try for sure.

Would it be possible for you to take a picture and mark a little bit better exactly where I should drill?
There is no way to reach inside the filter from the normal drain plug hole ?

The hole point is to get right into the "mouth" of the filter and then mechanically remove the dirt.
Would it be possible to loosen the dirt with carb cleaner and then use a strong suction device?

I'll get under the car and measure the location of the access hole drill point. My hole wasn't perfectly center and one thing you must be careful of is not to contact the plastic filter inlet walls with the drill bit. I did this and crack one side so be careful and it would be a good idea to use tape as a depth collar on the drill bit. I also loaded up the bit with grease to capture and hold the shavings, it worked well for both the drill bit and tap.

Yes , the hole is get access to the filter mesh through the inlet and with the bottle brush it is a mechanical type contact to remove the build up and you do need to contact with the brush on the mesh to get the crud loose. The friction fibers kind of lock into the mesh of the filter. It would difficult to get any type of normal suction hose up into the filter, I think the brush is ideal, it's flexible and with the curve of the brush handle it gets way back into the cavity of the filter. A suction hose would need to small and semi flexible and I still think the brush contact would be more effective.

Here's the location for the filter inlet access hole. Hole location needs to be as close the where the case halves split as possible and center of flat area on the bottom of the case. The 25.6mm distance could be reduced some to get the hole access closer to where the case splits.

Inside the case where the filter inlet is located. Filter is mounted in other case half. Filter inlet spans across the case halves.

Filter inlet area where access hole is located in bell housing case.

Inkedfilter inlet_LI.jpg (1.52 MiB) Viewed 462 times

[firstv70volvo]

We have some creative minds in the forum This looks like something I will try for sure.

Would it be possible for you to take a picture and mark a little bit better exactly where I should drill?
There is no way to reach inside the filter from the normal drain plug hole ?

The hole point is to get right into the "mouth" of the filter and then mechanically remove the dirt.
Would it be possible to loosen the dirt with carb cleaner and then use a strong suction device?

Updated notes with more information about access hole location, drilling and tapping the case and sealing the drain plug.

https://app.box.com/s/ahacprqhk1rkb6klp9nlzt7y0n6eevbb

[greffel]

I have drilled the hole and started the cleaning process.
After a while it when from dripping in the hole to a steady stream. Maybe I removed some dirt in the filter so even more oil could be drained.

[firstv70volvo]

I have drilled the hole and started the cleaning process.
After a while it when from dripping in the hole to a steady stream. Maybe I removed some dirt in the filter so even more oil could be drained.

From dripping to a steady stream is a good indication the filter was completely clogged and you've removed enough crud to allow the fluid trapped above the clogged up filter mesh to drain.

[vtl]

I think it's possible to blow the mesh with compressed air or wash it under pressure with kerosene through the suction passage for valve body. VB cover removal is still PIA, but you don't have to drill the casing. And kerosene will drip through the most of the clogged mesh surface, and it can be supplied under pressure, which may help.











Probably some kind of adapter plate would be needed for suction channel. And keep the drain hole open!

Valve body can be kept bolted, this is the access passage:



And its cover: