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Nevada1906 1995 850 S60R m56 build thread

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's P80 platform cars -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, including 850 R, 850 T-5R, 850 T-5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70, V70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70-XC
1997 - 2004 C70

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Nevada1906
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Re: Nevada1906 1995 850 S60R m56 build thread

Post by Nevada1906 »

volvolugnut wrote: 17 Oct 2021, 18:37
abscate wrote: 17 Oct 2021, 18:15 I really don’t know but dissimilar metals in hot conductive Electrolyte can create a battery of potential problems
This is the same reason you do not want to use a galvanized pipe in a copper or brass piping system. It may take years, but a leak will form.
volvolugnut
Here's a thought: I could get three feet of 1/4" steel brake line and a tubing bender. I've already made the template for the line.
"Maturity is when you realize that the overbearing high school principal or villainous college dean from your favorite 80s movie is actually the hero of the story."

1995 860R (854 + B5254T4 + M56)

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Post by volvolugnut »

The 0.25 brake line would be much smaller area than the original tube size. That might be a problem on the water side especially. Could you get larger (0.5 ?) tubing in steel or aluminum that you can bend?

I did like the idea of the natural finish copper line looks. Sort of steam punk.

volvolugnut
The Fleet:
Volvo: 2001 V70 T5, 1986 244DL, 1983 245DL, 1975 245DL, 1959 PV544, multiple Volvo parts cars.
Mercedes: 2001 E320, 1973 280, 1974 280C, 1989 300E, 1988 300TE, 1979 300TD, parts cars.
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Nevada1906
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Post by Nevada1906 »

volvolugnut wrote: 18 Oct 2021, 09:46 The 0.25 brake line would be much smaller area than the original tube size. That might be a problem on the water side especially. Could you get larger (0.5 ?) tubing in steel or aluminum that you can bend?

I did like the idea of the natural finish copper line looks. Sort of steam punk.

volvolugnut

That's not a bad idea. Off to the McMaster-Carr catalog...
"Maturity is when you realize that the overbearing high school principal or villainous college dean from your favorite 80s movie is actually the hero of the story."

1995 860R (854 + B5254T4 + M56)

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Post by volvolugnut »

This tubing may be a good choice for forming. I am not sure.
https://www.mcmaster.com/tubing/aluminu ... m-tubes-7/

volvolugnut
The Fleet:
Volvo: 2001 V70 T5, 1986 244DL, 1983 245DL, 1975 245DL, 1959 PV544, multiple Volvo parts cars.
Mercedes: 2001 E320, 1973 280, 1974 280C, 1989 300E, 1988 300TE, 1979 300TD, parts cars.
2009 Smart Passion
Ford: 1977 F350, 1964 F150 (2), 1938 Tudor Sedan
Farmall tractors: 1956 400 Diesel, 1946 A
And others.

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Nevada1906
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Post by Nevada1906 »

Haven't posted any updates for a while - had some more pressing things come up.

I installed the new front cam seals and the o-rings for the CVVT hubs.

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And now I've hit a snag: timing the hubs.

I have a factory service manual for the 2001-2009 S60, but it doesn't seem to have a section for timing CVVT hubs. It's mostly OBD trouble codes - by year - and electrical diagnostic instructions. I've downloaded, read through and re-read through F250's PDF on the subject on this site. I've watched every YouTube video I could find on the subject (amazing how many people have the exhaust-only VVT engine), and I'm stuck.

Is there JUST NOT a simple, straightforward way to properly install the CVVT hubs?

Something like:
1: Slide the hub onto the camshaft.
2: Loosen the gear retaining bolts on the hub.
3: Rotate the hub clockwise until the retaining bolts hit the ends of their slots.
4: Tighten them back down.
5: Rotate each hub & gear until the timing mark on the gear lines up with the notch on the upper cover.
6: Torque the hub center bolt down.
7: Do that for both, then install the timing belt by starting from the crank gear and feeding the belt counterclockwise around the pulleys.
8: Tighten the tensioner.

Are the hubs just SUPPOSED to be a pain in the ass to install? Because if that's the case, it raises another question: who the hell designs an engine to be difficult to service correctly?

I mean, besides Ferrari.
"Maturity is when you realize that the overbearing high school principal or villainous college dean from your favorite 80s movie is actually the hero of the story."

1995 860R (854 + B5254T4 + M56)

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Post by Nevada1906 »

I think I figured out how to to reinstall the CVVT hubs.

When I bought the engine, it arrived with the hubs in this position. While these pictures are from yesterday, they show the hubs as they'd been on the engine since it's last timing belt job.

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My thinking was that they were already timed correctly as they were, so all I had to do was make sure the gears were phased to the hubs as they had been and line up the gear marks with the cover notches. That part was easy because the bolts left nice bright tool marks on the gears. I reinstalled the hubs, installed the belt, spun the engine with a breaker bar about 10 times to make sure nothing hit, and all the timing marks still lined up.

After that, I installed the cover, serpentine belt, cam triggers and CPS housings.

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You can see how the exhaust CPS housing interferes with the upper mount. The area marked in silver Sharpie has to be cut away and a new extension added. Why wouldn't I just use the S60R upper mount? Frankly, I hate the way it looks. And equally frankly, if I wanted an easy project I wouldn't be building a Volvo

I also yanked the copper pipe and the hose clamps. I have Oetikers on the way and I'll be fabricating a new aluminum pipe.

So there it is. Just needs mounts and it can go in the car.
"Maturity is when you realize that the overbearing high school principal or villainous college dean from your favorite 80s movie is actually the hero of the story."

1995 860R (854 + B5254T4 + M56)

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Post by Sveedy »

Nice ! So clean you could eat off it.
So high up do you have the car in order to do this install ?
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Post by bmdubya1198 »

The VVT gears are pretty easy to set up. You just need to make sure the mark is lined up with the gear at its clockwise limit.
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Post by Nevada1906 »

Sveedy wrote: 03 Dec 2021, 16:30 Nice ! So clean you could eat off it.
So high up do you have the car in order to do this install ?
The car's up on jackstands. After I get the subframe back in, I'll put the engine in through the top. I've seen how you're "supposed" to install the engine & transmission to the subframe and then drop the car on top of it, but I'm just reversing the removal sequence. My lift has just enough travel to do it, though it does require a load leveler and a bunch of gynmastics to get everything in.

I totally get why 5-cylinder FWD cars are a rarity. The long engine in there sideways makes them basically the cartoon bulldog in the 1940's tough-guy turtleneck.

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"Maturity is when you realize that the overbearing high school principal or villainous college dean from your favorite 80s movie is actually the hero of the story."

1995 860R (854 + B5254T4 + M56)

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Nevada1906
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Post by Nevada1906 »

bmdubya1198 wrote: 03 Dec 2021, 17:14 The VVT gears are pretty easy to set up. You just need to make sure the mark is lined up with the gear at its clockwise limit.

I tried that at first. Then I thought about the video the junkyard posted its website of the car this engine came out of driving around the lot and figured the hubs were properly phased when I got it. So I just put everything back together.
"Maturity is when you realize that the overbearing high school principal or villainous college dean from your favorite 80s movie is actually the hero of the story."

1995 860R (854 + B5254T4 + M56)

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