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2001 V70 2.4T Power steering pressure hose leak

Help, Advice, Owners' Discussion and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's stylish, distinctive P2 platform cars sold as model years 2001-2007 (North American market year designations).

2001 - 2007 V70
2001 - 2004 V70 XC (Cross Country)
2004 - 2007 XC70 (Cross Country)
2001 - 2009 S60
2003 - 2007 S60 R
2004 - 2007 V70 R

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br0dy519
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Year and Model: 2004 XC70
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Re: 2001 V70 2.4T Power steering pressure hose leak

Post by br0dy519 »

Yes remove it completely. New bolts aren’t necessary.

I remember it gave me enough room to fit my hand in there to thread it by hand while taking off slack and helping it into position with the other. And yes it’s critical to back it out CCW until it finds the threads and sets. And when tightening you need minimal torque as there is an o ring.

Did I forget to mention that whoever had the PS pump off last in my car completely destroyed the threads on the PS pump? Another wonderful surprise on this job for me! Brought it to a machine shop to have it rethreaded for $40. Make sure 200% certain that you are threading these in straight. Especially on the rack side.
04s60 2.4
04xc70 2.5t
prwood wrote:I wish I had a permanent car repair area that was covered, had a level surface, lighting and fans, a workbench, and tool cabinets. You know,like a garage. Much of my time during the job is spent hauling things up and down the stairs to the basement or in and out of the storage shed, or running back downstairs when I realize I need something else,or taking a break from standing out in the sun,or using flashlights or work lamps when it gets dark.

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prwood
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Post by prwood »

br0dy519 wrote: 24 Oct 2021, 22:34 Yes remove it completely. New bolts aren’t necessary.
So, in VIDA, the instructions for removing the rear lower engine mount are as follows:
On top:
1. Remove the engine stabilizer bar.
2. Remove the top nut from the rear lower engine mount.
Under car:
3. Remove the lower screw from the rear lower engine mount.
4. Remove the screws mounting the catalytic converter and push the catalytic converter mount forward.
5. Remove the screw and nut connecting the lower torque rod to the transmission.
6. Jack up the transmission to raise the engine and remove the engine mount.

Is that basically what you did, and did you just leave the jack in place while doing the rest of your work?
Cars I've owned:
- 2015 to current: 2001 Volvo V70 2.4T; 2004 Honda Odyssey
- 2007 to 2015: 2002 Subaru Legacy L Wagon
- 2003 to 2016: 2001 Toyota Corolla LE
- 1999 to 2003: 1994 Toyota Camry LE

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prwood
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Year and Model: 2001 V70 2.4T
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Post by prwood »

volvolugnut wrote: 24 Oct 2021, 19:20 After you get the car as high as you can with your jack, place jack stands under the car in secure locations. Then place stacked wood blocks under your jack and raise it some more. Then raise jack stands, with more wood blocks if needed.
But you probable knew all this.
volvolugnut
I have seen people post about doing this but have never tried doing it myself. I have also seen people put the wood blocks on the jack pad instead of under the jack; not sure if one was is better than the other. I'll look around for some wood blocks... good rainy day activity.

:roll:
Screen Shot 2021-10-25 at 12.58.20 PM.png
Screen Shot 2021-10-25 at 12.58.20 PM.png (46.81 KiB) Viewed 515 times
Cars I've owned:
- 2015 to current: 2001 Volvo V70 2.4T; 2004 Honda Odyssey
- 2007 to 2015: 2002 Subaru Legacy L Wagon
- 2003 to 2016: 2001 Toyota Corolla LE
- 1999 to 2003: 1994 Toyota Camry LE

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volvolugnut
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Year and Model: 2001 V70
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Post by volvolugnut »

Do not use concrete blocks - they will break under this loading. Do not stack the wood blocks without a wide and stable base.
Rain, rain go away..

volvolugnut
The Fleet:
Volvo: 2001 V70 T5, 1986 244DL, 1983 245DL, 1975 245DL, 1959 PV544, multiple Volvo parts cars.
Mercedes: 2001 E320, 1973 280, 1974 280C, 1989 300E, 1988 300TE, 1979 300TD, parts cars.
2009 Smart Passion
Ford: 1977 F350, 1964 F150 (2), 1938 Tudor Sedan
Farmall tractors: 1956 400 Diesel, 1946 A
And others.

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abscate
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Post by abscate »

Peter - get four new subframe bolts. Worst case, you can drive the car without power steering to an indy to get the hoses in up on a rack - EZPZ. Just put the plastic caps or plugs in the rack to protect it from dirt getting in.

Put a capful of oil into the PS pump and maybe use the old line to dump excess into a container, then drive it to the indy.

We drove Gruhilde all summer with no PS fluid, the pump will just freewheel fine with no work being done as long as you have a bit of oil in it, residual.

Maybe you and Enotslim can get a group rate on PS line replacement, he is in the middle of that too, down closer the Mass Pike.
Empty Nester
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
Link to Maintenance record thread

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abscate
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Post by abscate »

Peter..a bit of web searching this am.

Quality Volvo in Wakefield, not far from you

http://www.qualityvolvorepair.com/contact-us/

I’ve never been embarrassed to tell an indie I’ve been beaten by a lack of a lift. Up inthe air, they will have this thing on in one hour. Bring a cash tip !

Also Superior motors right in Salem

I bet both of these guys are ex-dealer people from Herb Chambers or Volvo of Danvers who got tired of working for wankers
Empty Nester
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
Link to Maintenance record thread

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Blacklab467
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Post by Blacklab467 »

Yeah, send it to a Volvo indy, it would be a shame to scrap it for what might cost a couple hundred to finish the job. PS hose can be a bitch if you are doing it on the driveway with no room underneath, I've been there too! Get it done and enjoy your car again!
2003 XC 70 (sold)
2007 XC 70, 1970 Dodge Charger R/T.

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prwood
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Post by prwood »

Thanks for all the concern! My current plan is to take some time off for rest and give it another shot when there's a dry weekend. I think I'll be able to get it once I'm rested and in a better frame of mind.
Cars I've owned:
- 2015 to current: 2001 Volvo V70 2.4T; 2004 Honda Odyssey
- 2007 to 2015: 2002 Subaru Legacy L Wagon
- 2003 to 2016: 2001 Toyota Corolla LE
- 1999 to 2003: 1994 Toyota Camry LE

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volvolugnut
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Post by volvolugnut »

Many a time while wrenching I learned too late I should have stopped work before I broke something.
Hang in there. This is doable.
The satisfaction of a job is directly proportional to the difficulty.
volvolugnut
The Fleet:
Volvo: 2001 V70 T5, 1986 244DL, 1983 245DL, 1975 245DL, 1959 PV544, multiple Volvo parts cars.
Mercedes: 2001 E320, 1973 280, 1974 280C, 1989 300E, 1988 300TE, 1979 300TD, parts cars.
2009 Smart Passion
Ford: 1977 F350, 1964 F150 (2), 1938 Tudor Sedan
Farmall tractors: 1956 400 Diesel, 1946 A
And others.

User avatar
prwood
Posts: 689
Joined: 2 October 2015
Year and Model: 2001 V70 2.4T
Location: Salem, Massachusetts, USA
Has thanked: 9 times
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Post by prwood »

While I'm waiting for good weather and free time, I'm thinking about things. Like, what solutions do people use for working under their cars? I was thinking of getting one of these:

Image

Although I am a bit concerned it might not work well on uneven ground (i.e. my poorly-paved asphalt driveway). My current solution is a couple of those foam anti-fatigue mats laid under the car and then trying not to scrape myself on the asphalt as I shimmy out and in.
Cars I've owned:
- 2015 to current: 2001 Volvo V70 2.4T; 2004 Honda Odyssey
- 2007 to 2015: 2002 Subaru Legacy L Wagon
- 2003 to 2016: 2001 Toyota Corolla LE
- 1999 to 2003: 1994 Toyota Camry LE

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