2004 S60 First cold day of the year, no start issue.
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nucci480
- Posts: 58
- Joined: 4 February 2020
- Year and Model: 2004 s60 2.4
- Location: IA
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Re: 2004 S60 First cold day of the year, no start issue.
Not sure if anyone is still following this. But will continue to update. Sent the ECM & CEM to xemodex, to see if it has a issue. Hopefully this is the solution.
- br0dy519
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Couple basic and stupid questions: Good battery? Ever tried using a battery blanket or storing it on a trickle charger then trying on a cold morning?
One time I had a Caravan that didn't start in the morning. I put in a whole bottle of fuel-line anti-freeze (apparently a big NO-NO) and after letting it seep in as it said on the bottle, it fired without issue after 30 mins. Total cost: $0.79 Canadian (that's like $0.01 USD, abscate!) I always keep a bottle in my cars during winter time now just in case.
I'm also remembering a thread regarding fuel pump replacement and something about how easy it is to kink one of the supply lines when you replace it. Could that be a possibility as well?
Only time I ever experienced a no-start was after my PCV replacement. My cheap-ass didn't buy new O-rings for the fuel rail and one of them was torn badly and causing a fairly big leak. Then I would crank crank crank and flood flood flood, and do it again. If you do ever get it fired up, see if you can spray some carb cleaner around and find a possible leak somewhere.
One time I had a Caravan that didn't start in the morning. I put in a whole bottle of fuel-line anti-freeze (apparently a big NO-NO) and after letting it seep in as it said on the bottle, it fired without issue after 30 mins. Total cost: $0.79 Canadian (that's like $0.01 USD, abscate!) I always keep a bottle in my cars during winter time now just in case.
I'm also remembering a thread regarding fuel pump replacement and something about how easy it is to kink one of the supply lines when you replace it. Could that be a possibility as well?
Only time I ever experienced a no-start was after my PCV replacement. My cheap-ass didn't buy new O-rings for the fuel rail and one of them was torn badly and causing a fairly big leak. Then I would crank crank crank and flood flood flood, and do it again. If you do ever get it fired up, see if you can spray some carb cleaner around and find a possible leak somewhere.
04s60 2.4
04xc70 2.5t
04xc70 2.5t
prwood wrote:I wish I had a permanent car repair area that was covered, had a level surface, lighting and fans, a workbench, and tool cabinets. You know,like a garage. Much of my time during the job is spent hauling things up and down the stairs to the basement or in and out of the storage shed, or running back downstairs when I realize I need something else,or taking a break from standing out in the sun,or using flashlights or work lamps when it gets dark.
- abscate
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No pressure at rail points to fuel pump or pump electronics module (PEM)
It is easy to kink lines on the pump on install, see shockwave thread. That usually doesn’t give you a no start though.
It is easy to kink lines on the pump on install, see shockwave thread. That usually doesn’t give you a no start though.
Empty Nester
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
Link to Maintenance record thread
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
Link to Maintenance record thread
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nucci480
- Posts: 58
- Joined: 4 February 2020
- Year and Model: 2004 s60 2.4
- Location: IA
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Battery is 2 years old I believe, still in good shape. I’ve tried trickle charger and it makes no difference. When I replaced PVC I used OEM o rings for injectors. It has to be and electrical fault of some sort. Reads Perfect Psi at fuel rail when above 32F. When below 32f fuel rail reads 0Psi. I use seafoam regularly and put a bottle of heet “water remover for fuel” in first day of cold weather. I believe the fuel line kink issue is on the other style of fuel pump for P2 chassis.br0dy519 wrote: ↑05 Jan 2022, 21:21 Couple basic and stupid questions: Good battery? Ever tried using a battery blanket or storing it on a trickle charger then trying on a cold morning?
One time I had a Caravan that didn't start in the morning. I put in a whole bottle of fuel-line anti-freeze (apparently a big NO-NO) and after letting it seep in as it said on the bottle, it fired without issue after 30 mins. Total cost: $0.79 Canadian (that's like $0.01 USD, abscate!) I always keep a bottle in my cars during winter time now just in case.
I'm also remembering a thread regarding fuel pump replacement and something about how easy it is to kink one of the supply lines when you replace it. Could that be a possibility as well?
Only time I ever experienced a no-start was after my PCV replacement. My cheap-ass didn't buy new O-rings for the fuel rail and one of them was torn badly and causing a fairly big leak. Then I would crank crank crank and flood flood flood, and do it again. If you do ever get it fired up, see if you can spray some carb cleaner around and find a possible leak somewhere.
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nucci480
- Posts: 58
- Joined: 4 February 2020
- Year and Model: 2004 s60 2.4
- Location: IA
- Has thanked: 10 times
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PEM has been replaced 2 times in case 1st one was bad still same issue. Issue was with OEM pump & replacement pump. It’s the other style fuel pump that has these issues I believe.
- br0dy519
- Posts: 743
- Joined: 17 December 2019
- Year and Model: 2004 XC70
- Location: Windsor, ON
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Curious to hear Xemodex's diagnostic results on your modules. I poked through the EWD of your car and found two relays related to the fuel system. Did you ever have a chance to test those prior to shipping the CEM off? Relays are only rated for a certain number of cycles. Maybe yours sticks on a cold day? I ask because one of your posts you mentioned the fuel pump wasn't running which to me means it wasn't being fed power. PEM is obviously in good shape so I imagine it's sending a proper demand signal but I wonder if the pump itself wasn't being fed with the 12V.
I assume you don't have VIDA but I would probably do that fuel tank system pressurization test with the leak detection pump just for kicks. Other than that like you've noticed, there's really nothing to go off from your existing codes. I've seen 0100 on my XC70 before but I believe that was due to my dice faulting out and bringing down the bus. It's a generic code of just a communication fault which could occur at any module or at any point within the wiring (noise, ground fault, anything) of the bus. Another common issue is oxidization on the ECM contacts which I assume you already looked at for both the male and female ends once you went through all the trouble of removing and shipping it.
The thing I'm trying to wrap my head around specifically is the cold weather aspect of your problem. Usually issues like this arise from heat or condensation (think CEM problems with the oxidization, leaking from cowel, or overheating during summer time) ... cold weather, in theory, just decreases your batteries effectiveness... why would that give you 0psi on the rail?
Either way I have to give you props for troubleshooting so far. Hope you get a resolution and we can all learn from it. I know my suggestions are pretty dumb and basic but I'm a firm believer of starting with the easy stuff first. Just know we're all here with you! Even the dumb ones like me!
I assume you don't have VIDA but I would probably do that fuel tank system pressurization test with the leak detection pump just for kicks. Other than that like you've noticed, there's really nothing to go off from your existing codes. I've seen 0100 on my XC70 before but I believe that was due to my dice faulting out and bringing down the bus. It's a generic code of just a communication fault which could occur at any module or at any point within the wiring (noise, ground fault, anything) of the bus. Another common issue is oxidization on the ECM contacts which I assume you already looked at for both the male and female ends once you went through all the trouble of removing and shipping it.
The thing I'm trying to wrap my head around specifically is the cold weather aspect of your problem. Usually issues like this arise from heat or condensation (think CEM problems with the oxidization, leaking from cowel, or overheating during summer time) ... cold weather, in theory, just decreases your batteries effectiveness... why would that give you 0psi on the rail?
Either way I have to give you props for troubleshooting so far. Hope you get a resolution and we can all learn from it. I know my suggestions are pretty dumb and basic but I'm a firm believer of starting with the easy stuff first. Just know we're all here with you! Even the dumb ones like me!
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04s60 2.4
04xc70 2.5t
04xc70 2.5t
prwood wrote:I wish I had a permanent car repair area that was covered, had a level surface, lighting and fans, a workbench, and tool cabinets. You know,like a garage. Much of my time during the job is spent hauling things up and down the stairs to the basement or in and out of the storage shed, or running back downstairs when I realize I need something else,or taking a break from standing out in the sun,or using flashlights or work lamps when it gets dark.
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nucci480
- Posts: 58
- Joined: 4 February 2020
- Year and Model: 2004 s60 2.4
- Location: IA
- Has thanked: 10 times
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I did check the connections for corrosion and did not see anything. I replaced the relay on the inside of the vehicle but did not check the one under the hood. I’ve been searching the internet and forums about this cold weather issue for over a year now. I’ve seen a few other people with this issue but no solution to fixing it. It seems like most people give up and trade the vehicle in. It’s very odd how cold weather is telling the fuel system not to pressurize.br0dy519 wrote: ↑06 Jan 2022, 19:20 Curious to hear Xemodex's diagnostic results on your modules. I poked through the EWD of your car and found two relays related to the fuel system. Did you ever have a chance to test those prior to shipping the CEM off? Relays are only rated for a certain number of cycles. Maybe yours sticks on a cold day? I ask because one of your posts you mentioned the fuel pump wasn't running which to me means it wasn't being fed power. PEM is obviously in good shape so I imagine it's sending a proper demand signal but I wonder if the pump itself wasn't being fed with the 12V.
I assume you don't have VIDA but I would probably do that fuel tank system pressurization test with the leak detection pump just for kicks. Other than that like you've noticed, there's really nothing to go off from your existing codes. I've seen 0100 on my XC70 before but I believe that was due to my dice faulting out and bringing down the bus. It's a generic code of just a communication fault which could occur at any module or at any point within the wiring (noise, ground fault, anything) of the bus. Another common issue is oxidization on the ECM contacts which I assume you already looked at for both the male and female ends once you went through all the trouble of removing and shipping it.
The thing I'm trying to wrap my head around specifically is the cold weather aspect of your problem. Usually issues like this arise from heat or condensation (think CEM problems with the oxidization, leaking from cowel, or overheating during summer time) ... cold weather, in theory, just decreases your batteries effectiveness... why would that give you 0psi on the rail?
Either way I have to give you props for troubleshooting so far. Hope you get a resolution and we can all learn from it. I know my suggestions are pretty dumb and basic but I'm a firm believer of starting with the easy stuff first. Just know we're all here with you! Even the dumb ones like me!![]()
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nucci480
- Posts: 58
- Joined: 4 February 2020
- Year and Model: 2004 s60 2.4
- Location: IA
- Has thanked: 10 times
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Got the CEM & ECM back from xemodex today. They said their was no faults with the units but the CEM had some cold solder issues. I had them transfer the software to a refurbished unit. Installed them and started up like normal. Now I just have to see what happens when it goes under 32F outside. Posted on a few Volvo pages on Facebook. Someone said they had the same issue & it was caused from using a dorman PEM. Replaced with a Volvo PEM & the issue was resolved. If the issue remains that will be next. I’ve already replaced the PEM with 2 Dorman units just incase one was bad. So if it comes down to a $50 used Volvo PEM I might shed a tear after all the parts & time I threw at this stupid Volvo.
- br0dy519
- Posts: 743
- Joined: 17 December 2019
- Year and Model: 2004 XC70
- Location: Windsor, ON
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5 pages and OP finally tells us it's a Dorman PEM!
Abscate, how many lashings with a noodle for nucci ???
In all seriousness I hope it solves your issue and do report back.
Abscate, how many lashings with a noodle for nucci ???
In all seriousness I hope it solves your issue and do report back.
04s60 2.4
04xc70 2.5t
04xc70 2.5t
prwood wrote:I wish I had a permanent car repair area that was covered, had a level surface, lighting and fans, a workbench, and tool cabinets. You know,like a garage. Much of my time during the job is spent hauling things up and down the stairs to the basement or in and out of the storage shed, or running back downstairs when I realize I need something else,or taking a break from standing out in the sun,or using flashlights or work lamps when it gets dark.
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