Vida CEM swapping

[RickHaleParker]

opps!

By default CEM_PN_AUTODETECT is turned off. Turn this back on by removing //. Unless you are cracking a CEM-L on the bench or a car with a CEM-L and a defective DIM.

Corrected in the VTL:Master. CEM_PN_AUTODETECT is now turned on by default.
You turn it off by adding // to the line, if you are cracking a CEM-L on the bench or a CEM-L that has a defective DIM.

Down load the VTL:Master often. This is a work in progress not a finished production.

[RickHaleParker]

Any ideas?

What is the voltage at pin # 8 ( Rs ) of the transceivers?

A resistor on that line is for slope control mode. A slow slope could be causing communication errors. You might consider grounding Rs to put it in High Speed mode (< 1 V) . Jumpers across the resistors would be a quick test of this theory.

[ZRimaZ]

Where do you connect CAN_L_PIN to? RX of the transceiver or directly to CAN-L?

As it is in schematics on repo - via tranceiver

[Sh4rp]

Today I managed to do a few test runs. I already tried yesterday night but the rats nest I had didn`t get me anywhere so I tried to rewire everything today and tried again. Sadly it couldn`t crack the Pin. I`m using external 12V Powersupply with Stepdown to 5V, Teensy 4.1 and two SN65HVD230 from a german reseller from which I removed the 120 Ohm resistors since I had 60 Ohms across my OBD Pins.

I`m trying to crack a 2004 P1 V50.

Attached you can see three logs and my breadboard. Everything is soldered except the power supply which runs over the breadboard. Right now I dont know which route to take. Try an older code? Improve wiring? Buy a 5V transceiver?

So far 28 turned up most of the times as first value during my tests but it seems very random.

Best regards!

[RickHaleParker]

I`m using external 12V Powersupply with Stepdown to 5V, Teensy 4.1 and two SN65HVD230

Teensy 4.0/4.1 ~ 100 mA max.
SN65HVD230 17 mA max.
~ 100 mA + 2 X 17 mA = ~ 134 mA max.

USB 2.0 Maximum current 500 mA
USB 3.0 / USB3.1 Maximum current 900 mA.

Conclusion: You don't need the external power supply. V-usb can supply way more power then you need.

You do have some solderless connections which can be a problem. Powering everything off V-usb will eliminate all your solderless connections. The Teensy 3.3V out is good to 250 mA way more then the 34 mA you need for the two SN65HVD230. Use the Teensy Vin as a Vout for 5V CAN transceivers.

[Sh4rp]

Okay so by getting rid of the power supply and the step down, I also eliminate some noise I guess? I just read so many times about using an additional power supply that I thought it is kind of mandatory.

Going to give it a try and report back.

[RickHaleParker]

I just read so many times about using an additional power supply that I thought it is kind of mandatory.

This is development progress. We don't get everything optimized the first time.

[Sh4rp]

Didn't really bring me further though. The latency is still all over there place and I get different number sets..

I attached the Logs again.

Another thing that was a bit "funky" was, that the Teensy seemed to mess a bit with my ECU`s. It appeared like it didn't correctly reset them when I aborted the bruteforce and plugged it back in to give it another shot.

On my first tryouts it basically shut off all lights and gauges when going into programming mode and you could hear a relay clicking very noticeably. Now all sort of lights were blinking, the radio would stay on and so on and you could hear a very slight clicking in the doors that was going on for the whole time of running the software. I even had to reset the ECU`s once by disconnecting the battery.

[vtl]

Another thing that was a bit "funky" was, that the Teensy seemed to mess a bit with my ECU`s. It appeared like it didn't correctly reset them when I aborted the bruteforce and plugged it back in to give it another shot.

On my first tryouts it basically shut off all lights and gauges when going into programming mode and you could hear a relay clicking very noticeably. Now all sort of lights were blinking, the radio would stay on and so on and you could hear a very slight clicking in the doors that was going on for the whole time of running the software. I even had to reset the ECU`s once by disconnecting the battery.

Either wiring is not right, or CAN-bus speed is not right or a part of CAN network didn't go to programming mode. You have to investigate. The car should be dead silent when the cracking is progressing. Clicking solenoids is the very first sign something funky is happening on the CAN bus.

[RickHaleParker]

Either wiring is not right, or CAN-bus speed is not right or a part of CAN network didn't go to programming mode.

Could CEM_PN_AUTODETECT being turned off on a P1 have that effect?

Sh4rp read the top of this page for more on this.