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What non automotive projects and repairs are you doing?

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Sveedy
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Re: What non automotive projects and repairs are you doing?

Post by Sveedy »

^ No not my attic. A job for a customer. In fact the house was the home featured in the rather obscure Steve McQueen movie
" Junior Bonner " .
And that's a 1 x 4 they were trying to use ! Crazy ! The whole roof needs major re-framing, which is why I'm up there.
Try to learn life's bad lessons vicariously through others.


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xHeart
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Post by xHeart »

volvolugnut wrote: 04 Jan 2022, 17:02 I made the first smallish step today to replace both of our bathroom sinks, faucets and plumbing. I have been gathering materials for several months.
Today I shut off the water to the house and tried to replace the water supply valves at the wall under the sinks. I tired to reseal the compression joints at the copper tubes when I added water shut off valves at the faucet. One of the compression joints still leaks a little. I will need to rework by cutting the tube and ferrule off and starting with a new ferrule. Poor progress reduced the work scope this afternoon to only one sink.
I also tried to replace the old tub faucet washers to improve the water shutoff. I fixed that leak, but now the stem leaks when the hot or cold water is on.

volvolugnut
It is like this faucet with cold and hot handles are brass. I'm able to push on handle to slow the drip, but it doesn't shutoff fully; do you think unscrewing the handles would allow to pull out valve so it may be serviced with new seal?

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Post by volvolugnut »

This link may be helpful.
https://www.familyhandyman.com/project/ ... ub-faucet/
Many washer type valves are similar to this design. Ace Hardware has faucet washers - generally in an assortment of sizes. Get a kit with brass screws included. It is hard to know what size you need until you turn off the water and take the valve apart. Washers come in two types - flat and beveled. You may be able to use a bevel washer installed backwards to replace a flat washer you cannot find.

To direct answer your questions. Yes, I expect you can take off the handles and will find a removable stem with a washer on the end of the stem. You may find the screws at the end corroded and they may shear off. If the head only shears, grip with vise grip pliers and remove. If you must, you may find a complete replacement stem at a good hardware store. These old washer type valves were made to be repaired, but they will need service every few years. Kind of like points on old ignition systems.

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Post by xHeart »

volvolugnut wrote: 06 Jan 2022, 12:56 To direct answer your questions. Yes, I expect you can take off the handles and will find a removable stem with a washer on the end of the stem. You may find the screws at the end corroded and they may shear off. If the head only shears, grip with vise grip pliers and remove. If you must, you may find a complete replacement stem at a good hardware store. These old washer type valves were made to be repaired, but they will need service every few years. Kind of like points on old ignition systems.

volvolugnut
TY!
After discovering pertinent reference, I found this parts list https://images.thdstatic.com/catalog/pd ... 1f1b23.pdf.

Shutting off water-main and a taking the faucet handle apart, showed it being a C1 design -- one piece all copper. The washer, item 7, at the closing end of the valve was worn and deformed. The ACE person gave me two 1/4" bevel washer with 3/32" donut-hole, 72¢ each.

Drip at faucet spout is gone - the hot water washer was relatively more worn and deformed.
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Post by volvolugnut »

xHeart wrote: 09 Jan 2022, 08:21
volvolugnut wrote: 06 Jan 2022, 12:56 To direct answer your questions. Yes, I expect you can take off the handles and will find a removable stem with a washer on the end of the stem. You may find the screws at the end corroded and they may shear off. If the head only shears, grip with vise grip pliers and remove. If you must, you may find a complete replacement stem at a good hardware store. These old washer type valves were made to be repaired, but they will need service every few years. Kind of like points on old ignition systems.

volvolugnut
TY!
After discovering pertinent reference, I found this parts list https://images.thdstatic.com/catalog/pd ... 1f1b23.pdf.

Shutting off water-main and a taking the faucet handle apart, showed it being a C1 design -- one piece all copper. The washer, item 7, at the closing end of the valve was worn and deformed. The ACE person gave me two 1/4" bevel washer with 3/32" donut-hole, 72¢ each.

Drip at faucet spout is gone - the hot water washer was relatively more worn and deformed.
You are now a qualified DIY plumber.
volvolugnut
The Fleet:
Volvo: 2001 V70 T5, 1986 244DL, 1983 245DL, 1975 245DL, 1959 PV544, multiple Volvo parts cars.
Mercedes: 2001 E320, 1973 280, 1974 280C, 1989 300E, 1988 300TE, 1979 300TD, parts cars.
2009 Smart Passion
Ford: 1977 F350, 1964 F150 (2), 1938 Tudor Sedan
Farmall tractors: 1956 400 Diesel, 1946 A
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Post by BlackBart »

“On today’s episode of This Old Volvo Site....”
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Post by volvolugnut »

Fixers gotta fix things.
volvolugnut
The Fleet:
Volvo: 2001 V70 T5, 1986 244DL, 1983 245DL, 1975 245DL, 1959 PV544, multiple Volvo parts cars.
Mercedes: 2001 E320, 1973 280, 1974 280C, 1989 300E, 1988 300TE, 1979 300TD, parts cars.
2009 Smart Passion
Ford: 1977 F350, 1964 F150 (2), 1938 Tudor Sedan
Farmall tractors: 1956 400 Diesel, 1946 A
And others.

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Post by volvolugnut »

Round 2 of home plumbing repair:
I shut off water supply to the house and continued faucet repairs. First up was to find out why the tub valve stem was leaking while the water was on. Disassemble showed an O-ring was flattened and not sealing. New O-rings needed from Ace Hardware.
On to the leaking shut off valve at the wall water supply tube. My previous effort did not include replacement of the ferrule on the copper tube and clearly that was a problem. I disassembled, used a tubing cutter to remove the bad ferrule, REPLACED the tube nut, installed the new ferrule, and reassembled the shut off valve.
Time for a break and trip to ACE for O-rings.
Returned and repeated shut off valve work on the cold side. Installed the O-rings on both of the tub valves. If one was leaking, fix both while the water is off.
Turned on the water. No leaks on anything repaired! Completed tub valve reassemble and cleaned up. The other bath faucet will wait for another day. It is hard laying on the cabinet edge with my head under the sink.
volvolugnut
The Fleet:
Volvo: 2001 V70 T5, 1986 244DL, 1983 245DL, 1975 245DL, 1959 PV544, multiple Volvo parts cars.
Mercedes: 2001 E320, 1973 280, 1974 280C, 1989 300E, 1988 300TE, 1979 300TD, parts cars.
2009 Smart Passion
Ford: 1977 F350, 1964 F150 (2), 1938 Tudor Sedan
Farmall tractors: 1956 400 Diesel, 1946 A
And others.

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Post by BlackBart »

"Nice work, Norm!"


<EDIT>...actually, Richard is the plumbing guy!

https://www.thisoldhouse.com/plumbing
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Post by abscate »

volvolugnut wrote: 09 Jan 2022, 14:43 Round 2 of home plumbing repair:
I shut off water supply to the house and continued faucet repairs. First up was to find out why the tub valve stem was leaking while the water was on. Disassemble showed an O-ring was flattened and not sealing. New O-rings needed from Ace Hardware.
On to the leaking shut off valve at the wall water supply tube. My previous effort did not include replacement of the ferrule on the copper tube and clearly that was a problem. I disassembled, used a tubing cutter to remove the bad ferrule, REPLACED the tube nut, installed the new ferrule, and reassembled the shut off valve.
Time for a break and trip to ACE for O-rings.
Returned and repeated shut off valve work on the cold side. Installed the O-rings on both of the tub valves. If one was leaking, fix both while the water is off.
Turned on the water. No leaks on anything repaired! Completed tub valve reassemble and cleaned up. The other bath faucet will wait for another day. It is hard laying on the cabinet edge with my head under the sink.
volvolugnut

drip...........drip...........drip.........
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