$10,000 S80 Challenge Topic is solved

[pgill]

MVS Readers,

I wasn’t fast enough to show the Warning LED on my Autel AL539B. The pending code is gone after just a few engine starts.

What I can show you is the Green check mark that says everything is good now.

GREEN. - no codes
YELLOW- pending codes MIL IS OFF
Red - codes set MIL IS ON

Here is the home screen and you have to press OK to get to the next screen

Now you can see the GREEN CHECK MARK

Thanks

Paul

[pgill]

I found a picture of the pending code and the yellow LED

[abscate]

Don’t take those code reader descriptions literally until you fact check them. They are the Fox News of auto diagnostics.

Someone just writes some text in the PROM that they think sounds good.

[pgill]

MVS Readers,

The point that ABSCATE is making is valid.

The Generic Code Reader like the one I purchased will show a code that can help point you in the right direction but I agree with the recommendation to do some research and don't just point the parts cannon at the engine bay.

Having said that I recommend the following

1. If you know that something is broken or suspect it is and you get a code for a component related to the anomalous condition then replace the part needed to get you back to original design intent.
----- Examples
-------------Broken connector latch (if a connectors slips off without pressing the latch)
-------------Ignition coil (if a coil smells or looks different than its friends replace it)
-------------Vacuum pump oil leak (fix it before it causes Transmission module problems)

2. The Check Engine light only has to be illuminated if the vehicle can't compensate for an anomalous condition sufficiently to guarantee that it will meet emissions requirements. This is where the factory tools (VIDA/DICE) are superior they will provide you with more information. But don't underestimate the value of a generic scan tool and motivated owner. A service technician isn't going to drive your car thousands of miles but it is very likely that you will.

3. If other P3 owners are experiencing failures I recommend that you replace things proactively. Just consider it Maintenance that Volvo forgot to add to the list. Examples: Thermostat and the small hose next to it, Radiator Fan, Cooling system hoses, Alternator Brushes, HVAC Blower, Starter Motor Solenoid, Suspension Bushings, Exhaust hangers, Throttle Body cleaning, Intake Manifold Gaskets, Leak Detection pump filter, etc...


Take care

Paul

[abscate]

Incredible. You have almost spent more in gas than it cost you to buy and run this vehicle for 4 ish years.

[pgill]

ABSCATE,

That is an interesting point.

I realize that some MVS Readers of this thread are interested in the journey (what failed and how it was fixed) and others are interested in the cost (is a 10 year old Volvo a good choice when cost is considered)

My cost estimates DEC 2018 --> JAN 2022
---> 18 CPM for Gasoline (estimated for $4/gallon gas)
---> 15 CPM for depreciation
---> 10 CPM for repairs
---> 08 CPM for insurance (estimated)
---> 05 CPM for basic maintenance (estimated)
Total cost = 56 CPM (estimated)

Where I would like to be over the next three years
---> 12 CPM for Gasoline (estimated for $3/gallon gas)
---> 08 CPM for depreciation
---> 05 CPM for repairs
---> 08 CPM for insurance (estimated)
---> 05 CPM for basic maintenance (estimated)
Total cost = 38 CPM (estimated)

If I have to replace something expensive like: Engine, Transmission, Catalytic Converters then getting to this lower goal will be very challenging.

Thanks

Paul

[scot850]

While I have not been on the P3 forum, thanks to a link by Paul to the P2 forum I have read much of this on-going report.

I have made my point on both the P2 and P80 forums that there is no such thing as a cheap used car, let alone a cheap used Volvo. As most owners take their cars out of the dealer network early on either due to cost, convenience (or lack of), or from what I here from many in the US and elsewhere, the lack of competence and lack of trust.

None of this is a Volvo only issue but a general issue with most dealerships and their inability to attract and retain their customer base in the repair shops for maintenance and ongoing repairs. Add to this the constant pressure on the mechanics and service advisors to 'up sell' on unnecessary or needless repairs drives trust away and the owners of the vehicles.

I still use my local dealer after 20 years and our P2 is mostly serviced there still. This may change soon if I can get a 2 post hoist in my garage this year as planned.

In their defense, and mine, I did work there for a short time when they were in a bind (parts department) so I knew all the staff. It has not always been plain sailing though and we have had differences over the last 20 years, and more so recently as new staff are hired and seem to be clueless.

With all these issues, it means maintenance is skipped or minimal and vehicles only getting repaired when they break. Even a 5 year old vehicle could have issues.

I always say that when buying an old car you need to buy the best you can, have it inspected by someone who knows the brand well, and plan for $2-3000 to bring a car up to a Stage 0 condition and any other niggles taken car of. Once there you should have a good vehicle going forward.

Well done on ally your challenges being met and for sharing your experiences!

Neil.

[pgill]

Neil,

That was very well said.

I think there are many Volvo owners that would like to keep their car for a very long time and take it to the dealer for service.

Thanks for sharing

Paul

[pgill]

MVS readers,

It is time for the next repair on my S80.

As you can see from the picture my front Volvo Badge had lost its tranquil blue background

After a little research I found the part number

And here is what is inside of the box

And for the most important part the picture after the repair.

Full disclosure I didn't follow the Volvo instructions

Here is what I did

1. Cleaned the surface of the old label (It appears to be a thin sheet of aluminum) with 91% IPA - Isopropyl Alcohol

2. Used 100 grit sand paper to roughen the surface with nice fine scratches for the 3M adhesive to bond to

3. Cleaned again with 91% IPA

4. Waited 15 minutes in direct sunlight to evaporate any residual IPA

5. Applied the new label


If you are curious what Volvo recommends then watch this video. The big difference is Volvo recommends removing the old label and using a Primer on the plastic to enhance bonding. I didn't do these steps because the Aluminum part of my old label was well adhered to the plastic.

This video shows a screen shot of the Volvo instructions.
(Note: I really enjoy watching the Videos made by this channel)



Thanks

Paul

PS
I almost forgot the cost
$9.43 Volvo Badge 31214625

[pgill]

2/9/2022 cost update

Total Vehicle Cost (excluding, wheels, tires, fluids and filters)

$3400 --- Depreciation (Purchase price $7400 - Present value $4000)
$62.53 --- (31401556) --- Booster O-rings
$40.35 --- (DENSO 5344) --- Sparkplugs
$58.28 --- (LR006071) --- Thermostat
$00.66 --- (LR001505) O-ring for 30713530
$24.29 --- (30713530) --- Coolant hose
$68.85 --- (31272677) --- Oil Filter housing
$18.92 --- (LR006076) --- Idler pulley
$18.92 --- (LR006076) --- Tensioner Pulley
$08.97 --- (PK060473 CONTITECH) --- Aux Belt
$112.70 --- (LR021634) --- Motor Mount
$23.24 --- (30680474) --- Torq Mount
$15.76 --- (UD1306) --- Front Brake Pads (Amazon close out price, typical price is ~$75)
$523.23 --- AC repair
$43.37 --- Overdrive pulley ProParts Sweden 28436803
$323 ---- Radiator (Prem Air type)
$281 --- Radiator Fan (Siemens / VDO)
$34.4 --- (31272732-MFG14) BOSCH Fuel Pressure Sending unit
$11.61 --- (31300263) B+ Battery Clamp
$00.00 --- Loaner Battery from the Land Rover (Note: it is slightly too large and the cover only latches on one side)
$156.00 --- Mirror repair
$120.00 --- H8 GTR Ultra LED 2.0 bulbs
$06.00 --- Brake light bulb
$02.05 --- (30658215) Receptacle Housing for the MAF Sensor
$09.43 --- (31214625) Volvo Emblem

Total $5430