Starter issues and what could be a bad subframe bushing

azureblue · Post by **azureblue** » 30 Jan 2022, 10:19

When it rains it pours - or, when one thing needs to be fixed, other things decide they need fixing too. This time, it's the starter. - It sounds like the worm gear is hanging up. The engine will turn for a split second, then I hear the whine of the starter. Repeat a few times. Then if I hold the key ignition key to "start" for a few seconds, the starter motor will engage the ring gear and start the engine. It hasn't stranded me yet, but it's making me nervous.

So I assume I need to replace the whole starter assembly? I checked on line and starters are costing around $60.00.

before I buy one, is there anything simple to do to get the worm gear to free up (if my diagnosis is right)?

Second - I watched some how to vids, and they all go in through the top. Way back I replaced a starter on my 850, and went in through the bottom. Which way is better?

Also --- looking for the source of a groan / pop coming from what sounds to be under the driver foot well. The sound is not related to road conditions like pot holes, etc, that show up bad strut mounts.. Mostly it happens when turning left or the weight of the car shifts to the left side. Maybe the subframe bushing? Engine mount?

Thanks in advance

Post by **- Pete -** » 30 Jan 2022, 10:35

If it were me, I would just get one at the junkyard. Should be $10-$20 (you want OEM). When you have the original one out take a real close look at the teeth on your fly wheel.

Edit: The upside of getting one at the junkyard, aside from the low cost, is that you get the practice of removing it before doing it on your car.

Post by **vtl** » 30 Jan 2022, 10:52

I've had two of these installed with great success: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007Y85MFE/ They a bit longer than Bosch, but still fit.

Among other possible sources for popping sound, that could be the fix for one of them: https://www.ipdusa.com/products/8283/Su ... 585-115683

azureblue · Post by **azureblue** » 30 Jan 2022, 12:12

I am lucky to have a well stocked parts yard ten minutes from my house. They probably have 6 Volvos there right now. It's a bit cold here, which is why a pull is second on the list.

They are $30 here. Easy pull since the cars are up on blocks.

Thanks for the O ring tip - I guess this means dropping the sub frame slightly and slipping the O ring in?

Post by **vtl** » 30 Jan 2022, 15:09

azureblue wrote: ↑30 Jan 2022, 12:12 Thanks for the O ring tip - I guess this means dropping the sub frame slightly and slipping the O ring in?

Lot more on the driver's side, where the guide pin forces you to lower the subframe much lower.

azureblue · Post by **azureblue** » 30 Jan 2022, 16:10

is this better done by blocking up the subframe while the car is on the ground, then lifting the car up away from the subframe?

Post by **vtl** » 31 Jan 2022, 08:38

For the driver side you need to unbolt both bolts in back, slacken front bolts, unlock the steering column (so it could slide down) and lower the back of the subframe on floor jack. Better done with the car on jacks and wheels off.

azureblue · Post by **azureblue** » 31 Jan 2022, 12:14

Thanks for the how to - much appreciated. Should i just go ahead and replace both rear bushings, since i have it that far apart?

Post by **vtl** » 31 Jan 2022, 12:28

You don't need to lower the subframe that low for the bushings. 3/4" wood block is enough to press the new bushing in. But yeah, with new bushings the steering will be a bit more firm and road noise transmission may come down just a bit.