Do I need a breaker bar.

[BlackBart]

Exactly on all points. We have a used tool and repair shop here. He had a whole bucket of 1/2” breaker bars. I paid $30 for an old used, US-made, heavy duty 18”.

I had a nice chrome NAPA 1/2”, until I helped a guy put the big crankshaft nut on a 356 engine. Two guys holding the engine down, me hanging onto the end of a 4’ pipe, bouncing. We were supposed to get it to 300ft-lbs (really?). We guessed we got to 250 before my breaker bar sheared off and sprayed steel bits all over.

I went to get another but they don’t sell them anymore, just their Carlyle brand.

[Krons]

I've found the extra length/leverage of the 25" helpful in a number of situations. Got this on sale less than $20...yes Harbor Freight but has held up well.
https://www.harborfreight.com/hand-tool ... 62729.html

[abscate]

Pseudo random thought on the head job. If you do break the tightening fixture on the head bolts , the head us now sitting with an uneven torque while you run off to get a new one. My spider Sense us tingling about that not being good. Use new bolts from Rein. Chase block holes. Lube with oil per Volvo.

[02V70]

I would probably be able to loosen the other bolts if that does happen with another wrench. What would be the best thing to do? Can I reuse those bolts? Also, what is meant by chasing block holes and what is the procedure for lubing the bolts?

[abscate]

Get a copy of the Haynes or VIDA procedure. This is a complex DIY with steps to follow carefully, in order. I’ll find and link the best DIY HERE.

Cylinder head bolts are single use per Volvo. When you hear them come out, you will appreciate this

[vtl]

Bought this one in 2014, it is still in tact, even after two cylinder heads https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001222378/ For which you need a 2 ft long pipe, and it is still a tough job.

New head bolts are absolutely must! I've used Febi: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo- ... lt-6842347 And this fastener lubricant: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004BRCR5Y

[volvolugnut]

I would probably be able to loosen the other bolts if that does happen with another wrench. What would be the best thing to do? Can I reuse those bolts? Also, what is meant by chasing block holes and what is the procedure for lubing the bolts?

Chasing the threads means you turn a proper size tapping die into each bolt hole to clean them of metal burrs and general crap.
volvolugnut

[02V70]

Pseudo random thought on the head job. If you do break the tightening fixture on the head bolts , the head us now sitting with an uneven torque while you run off to get a new one. My spider Sense us tingling about that not being good. Use new bolts from Rein. Chase block holes. Lube with oil per Volvo.

Is it okay if all the bolts are the same torqe step, but not finished, and left overnight?

[volvolugnut]

Pseudo random thought on the head job. If you do break the tightening fixture on the head bolts , the head us now sitting with an uneven torque while you run off to get a new one. My spider Sense us tingling about that not being good. Use new bolts from Rein. Chase block holes. Lube with oil per Volvo.

Is it okay if all the bolts are the same torqe step, but not finished, and left overnight?

Yes, No problem if bolts all the same torque. The head will have even squeeze all over.

volvolugnut

[02V70]

I finished the tightening of the head bolts. One of the tutorials I was following said that in the final 130 degrees of tighening, there were "wicked" creaking and groaning sounds. I did not hear anything. Did I do something wrong, or is it fine? I used an 18 inch breaker bar, but used my whole body weight to turn it, and felt I couldnt do much more when I was at the end. All of the bolts seems to require the same amount of force.