This is the same '85 760 as the one in the forum under 'fuel pump relay'.
The car will start now every time, the problem is that the fuel feed line(3" line between the filter and the pump)will not stop leaking.
I have tried everything I can think of..tightened more, loosened more, used 2 washers,3 washers, a rubber washer at the bottom of bolt, I lined up the holes of the bolt and the feed line, unlined the holes????
I took the filter/pump assembly completely back apart and inspected everything.There are no holes in the line itself and no visible cracks in the metal connectors.I was sure it was a case of needing a new fuel feed line, but I can't find anything wrong with this one.I've ruled out that it's the filter because I have 2 working filters and they both leak from the same exact location when put on the car, the area between the feed line's metal round end(what the bolt goes through)and where it touches the filter top.
Could it be that the metal end of the feed line is cracked enough to leak but not visible.It's not a slow leak either, it varies between dripping out fast to spraying out regardless of how tight it is.I've tried to make sure not to over-tighten anything so I don't think anything's been damaged and it's never leaked before, with this being the 3rd time in 3 years I've replaced the pumps/filters.
??Just replace the feed line and hope for the best??
It's something that is not so surprisingly impossible to get locally so it's a case of ordering it and waiting at least 3 days.
Fuel Feed Line - 1985 760Turbo Auto.187,000m
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turbo no/go
- Posts: 48
- Joined: 30 November 2005
- Year and Model:
- Location: texas
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turbo no/go
- Posts: 48
- Joined: 30 November 2005
- Year and Model:
- Location: texas
I fixed the leak, the problem now is that fuse #1(fuel pump) keeps blowing and the f.p. relay clicks repetively when the electricity is on.I tried to start the car today to check the filter for leaks and it started no problem. I decided to drive it around the block and before I made it home it shut off.I found the blown fuse and replaced it, tried to start the car and the fuse instantly blew, again, and again until I ran out of fuses and had to push it home.I've checked the wiring inside the car as well as under the hood.
Is there a part on the car that I'm overlooking that could couse the fp relay to blow everytime I try to start the car?I've inspected and repaired as best I could all the wiring/grounds under the hood that were bad/dirty.Is there something else that could be going bad causing the relay to shut off?
The battery gauge continues to drop near/into the red even during the day time with no lights/radio/fan etc. on.The battery itself is few months old and the terminals are clean and tight.The battery did this before the fuse/relay problem but it would only occasionally shut the car off and only when you put it in reverse w/the lights on.
Any ideas?
Is there a part on the car that I'm overlooking that could couse the fp relay to blow everytime I try to start the car?I've inspected and repaired as best I could all the wiring/grounds under the hood that were bad/dirty.Is there something else that could be going bad causing the relay to shut off?
The battery gauge continues to drop near/into the red even during the day time with no lights/radio/fan etc. on.The battery itself is few months old and the terminals are clean and tight.The battery did this before the fuse/relay problem but it would only occasionally shut the car off and only when you put it in reverse w/the lights on.
Any ideas?
- jonesg
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Yeh you got some gremlins there, the fuel pump might be drawing excess power if its going south, check voltage at the pump harness plug in the trunk area.
Unplug it and what happens to the relay, if it overheats and pops the fuse again its in the intermediate wiring or fuse block itself, they do go bad.
If you haave the 2 pump setup I'm not familiar with that wiring.
But I'd look for frayed wiring to pumps or worn pump drawing excess v.
Unplug it and what happens to the relay, if it overheats and pops the fuse again its in the intermediate wiring or fuse block itself, they do go bad.
If you haave the 2 pump setup I'm not familiar with that wiring.
But I'd look for frayed wiring to pumps or worn pump drawing excess v.
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turbo no/go
- Posts: 48
- Joined: 30 November 2005
- Year and Model:
- Location: texas
It seems that maybe whatever has been causing the battery to be weak at times is responsible for or at least related to the relay problem.
The relay is definitley hot and the area where one of the 6 wires(big/brown) plugs into relay is brown(burnt).I tried a new relay the day it first happened and no change.The car either would not start or it would start and then instantly blow the fuse(#1), and the new relay would click repetivly the whole time just like the original one.
I would think I got a faulty pump, but the problem happened before I replaced both pumps.
Basically what I need to know is, other than the wiring behind the ashtray(relay panel) and the wiring under the hood(wiring harness)where am I looking for a short.The wiring on the pump is fine, the wiring inside at the relay panel is like new, the wiring under hood is/was in bad shape but I have cleaned and repaired 90% of it.Are there any important wires(fuel pump related) in a spot thats hard to get to??, (other than the in tank pump) which is a week old and the wiring is fine.Are there ground wires under the engine(on block)??Is there some website/book where I can get a true idea of how to trace my wiring and to locate and identify wires?I've got a Chiltons and a Haynes repair manual but in the 3 years I've had them they have never actually helped me fix my car.And there wiring diagrams may as well be in Chinese because I no comprende!
The relay is definitley hot and the area where one of the 6 wires(big/brown) plugs into relay is brown(burnt).I tried a new relay the day it first happened and no change.The car either would not start or it would start and then instantly blow the fuse(#1), and the new relay would click repetivly the whole time just like the original one.
I would think I got a faulty pump, but the problem happened before I replaced both pumps.
Basically what I need to know is, other than the wiring behind the ashtray(relay panel) and the wiring under the hood(wiring harness)where am I looking for a short.The wiring on the pump is fine, the wiring inside at the relay panel is like new, the wiring under hood is/was in bad shape but I have cleaned and repaired 90% of it.Are there any important wires(fuel pump related) in a spot thats hard to get to??, (other than the in tank pump) which is a week old and the wiring is fine.Are there ground wires under the engine(on block)??Is there some website/book where I can get a true idea of how to trace my wiring and to locate and identify wires?I've got a Chiltons and a Haynes repair manual but in the 3 years I've had them they have never actually helped me fix my car.And there wiring diagrams may as well be in Chinese because I no comprende!
Last edited by turbo no/go on 07 May 2008, 11:08, edited 2 times in total.
- jonesg
- Posts: 3512
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- Year and Model: 2004 V70
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Heres 93 pages of wiring for the 760. Well you asked !
https://blarf.homeip.net/greenbook/TP31075_1
Just click ok for the certificate to proceed.
Try page 15 for pump ground .
In the end I think the pump circuit is over drawing amps.
Maybe try disconnecting a pump, see how the relay reacts, then try the other pump. If they both trip the relay then the problem is fwd of the front pump. Follow the wires.
https://blarf.homeip.net/greenbook/TP31075_1
Just click ok for the certificate to proceed.
Try page 15 for pump ground .
In the end I think the pump circuit is over drawing amps.
Maybe try disconnecting a pump, see how the relay reacts, then try the other pump. If they both trip the relay then the problem is fwd of the front pump. Follow the wires.
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turbo no/go
- Posts: 48
- Joined: 30 November 2005
- Year and Model:
- Location: texas
Thanks for the link to the wiring site, you can definetely find what you need there.
I have cleaned and inspected lots of wiring.The car starts first try every try and drives normal now, but still shuts itself off occasionally.On a 15-20 mile trip around town it will happen once or twice, shut off and immediately start back(put it in neutral/park and turn the key once.)
The relay itself stopped doing the repetitive clicking, but when the car shuts itself off, I hear a click right before it happens, and on the occassion it dosen't want to start right back I jiggle the f.p. relay and then it starts.
As I said before it's a new relay and I have a working spare and it happens with both.
So even though I'm glad it starts 100% of the time and drives normal, it's still about 50/50 if it will shut itself off or not while driving.It's obvious it's fuel flow being shut off(fuel pump) but I'm still not exactly sure whats doing it.
I have cleaned and inspected lots of wiring.The car starts first try every try and drives normal now, but still shuts itself off occasionally.On a 15-20 mile trip around town it will happen once or twice, shut off and immediately start back(put it in neutral/park and turn the key once.)
The relay itself stopped doing the repetitive clicking, but when the car shuts itself off, I hear a click right before it happens, and on the occassion it dosen't want to start right back I jiggle the f.p. relay and then it starts.
As I said before it's a new relay and I have a working spare and it happens with both.
So even though I'm glad it starts 100% of the time and drives normal, it's still about 50/50 if it will shut itself off or not while driving.It's obvious it's fuel flow being shut off(fuel pump) but I'm still not exactly sure whats doing it.
- jonesg
- Posts: 3512
- Joined: 16 January 2008
- Year and Model: 2004 V70
- Location: Northern maine.
- Has thanked: 70 times
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I think its the pump or the pump wiring drawing too much current, that causes the relay to overheat, its working like a circuit breaker.
I would drive til it fails, then you'll know for sure.
I would drive til it fails, then you'll know for sure.
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