Fluctuating electrical power?

[foggydogg]

As I recall, it moves one direction pretty quickly, maybe a two count, but returns something like a step motor, more like a ten count. Default is fresh air.

[454cid]

I got the new arm installed today. The side that connected to the push-rod was fairly easy. It took awhile to get the actuator end in place. I started off by trying to attach it rotated towards the fire wall, but ended up going the other way, and that worked better. The biggest issue was that with two hands, I needed two arms in the dash and couldn't see anything. I had to to it by feel.

It seems to open/close more with the fan on 4. I assumed the door was either open or closed, but apparently not. I'm thinking that "recirculate" may not entirely be recirculated air, just mostly.

I still have not had the fluctuating power issue again since I started this thread.

[abscate]

The door closes completely in recirc mode. You can check my lifting the cabin air filter and looking down at the door

[454cid]

So after mentioning that I've had no more power fluctuations, that changed after work. It did it in the parking lot. I stopped at a gas station, and shut off the blower, while sitting there idling.... lights were dimming, so I'm thinking it's not actually the blower.

My thought is too clean the main grounds, if I can find/reach them. I'm kind of leaning towards the alternator going out however. I wondered about the alternator having an OAP (fancy clutch pulley), but I don't think I actually have one on my car, and the symptoms don't really match up to what I read is typical (sounds, bouncing belt).

[abscate]

No free wheeling pulley until the 1999 model..the best year ever. Try monitoring the battery voltage from startup to idle, then 2500 rpm with no loads and with “ full loads - wipers , defroster, blower. High beams.

[foggydogg]

There is a wire bundle attached to the positive battery cable, it goes under the air filter box and feeds the main power bus. They are a known issue, with corrosion hidden in the crimped connections.

[454cid]

There is a wire bundle attached to the positive battery cable, it goes under the air filter box and feeds the main power bus. They are a known issue, with corrosion hidden in the crimped connections.

Ok, so the OAP is sorta like the HVAC filter, then.... gets listed for the 850, but didn't actually appear until later cars.

Apparently threat of my Fluke "fixes" the problem. It did it a couple of times at the stop light on my way to the gas station, but as soon as I was underhood with the meter it was completely fine, no fluctuations.

[scot850]

It could be worn or sticky brushes in the alternator. Maybe time to pull it out and see if the regulator is worn out, or at least give it and the stator a good clean. It could be carbon build up in general in there.

Neil.

[454cid]

There is a wire bundle attached to the positive battery cable, it goes under the air filter box and feeds the main power bus. They are a known issue, with corrosion hidden in the crimped connections.

I just saw this post. What is the fix for this, new connectors? Complete replacement?

[scot850]

I think what foggydogg is talking about is what is called the B+ cable. It runs from the +ve battery clamp up to the fuse box. However, this is an issue on the V/S/C 70's that have a secondary kidney shaped fuse box in front of the brake master cylinder. 850's don't have that.

It is the smaller red wire (can't recall if it is a stranded one like the later P80's) from the clamp that runs to somewhere? I don't know on the 850 where that is.

On the later cars, especially the 99-00 models of P80 the are prone to melting inside the kidney shaped fuse box below where it bolts in.

I have had a look at 850 engine bay pictures and if you look on this link:

viewtopic.php?t=60592

it looks like there are 2 red wires running from the +ve battery terminal. The multi-stranded version is the one. Where the other end goes to I have no idea.

Certainly the whole cable in the pictures here look rough!!

Neil.