2001 V70 2.4T Brake Failure Service Urgent / Power Fluctuations / Engine Shuddering

[abscate]

One more option

Find an oem alternator in junkyard, wrecked car…$50

Take it to rebuilder. $100

Lifetime , 20 years.

[prwood]

Update 3/7/2022: Yesterday I removed the alternator and replaced the voltage regulator with a new Bosch regulator from FCP. Here's photos comparing the old vs new regulator:

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You can see that the brushes from the old regulator were pretty worn down.

The signal wire for the alternator was also not in great shape. There wasn't much I could do for it, not having an extra on hand, so I gave it a coating of dielectric grease and put it back in as carefully but as snugly as I could.

Results were good - I was able to drive for 45+ minutes with no voltage spikes, engine clunks, or brake warning messages, including some highway driving.

That being said, I managed to create a new problem to deal with - towards the end of the drive, the front connection for the charge air pipe popped open - apparently I had not tightened the hose clamp down enough - and now the engine is showing an erratic RPM whenever I'm idling and the AC compressor kicks on. From past experience this is typically caused by the throttle plate being gunked up, so I am assuming that when I was driving with the charge air pipe popped open, it sucked some gunk into the throttle. So now I've got to deal with that issue.

I'd like to do a bit more driving after I fix the throttle to be more confident that the alternator issue is fixed, but signs so far look pretty good!

[prwood]

Oh, and… the engine is also throwing these codes now…thinking I must have bumped something or left something disconnected while I was doing the job. At least one of them is throttle related so hopefully cleaning the throttle will clear it up. Hopefully nothing is severed. Taking a half day tomorrow to take out the throttle body and clean it and hopefully also figure out what else I messed up.

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[abscate]

That p1238 is incorrectly mapped to text, in Volvo world I’m pretty sure that is a turbo flow code
Both that and the throttle position code are probably left over from the turbo hose coming off or another loose induction hose

[vtl]

One more option

Find an oem alternator in junkyard, wrecked car…$50

Take it to rebuilder. $100

Lifetime , 20 years.

$100? When I sourced all the quality bearings, on par with what was found inside the original alternator, plus new Bosch VR, plus new INA pulley, it cost me north of $200 just in parts, in 2017.

[prwood]

Welp… new problem. Putting the ETM back in, I knocked the radiator fins and created a pinhole leak. Any suggestions on how to fix it without replacing the radiator? Which I already did a few years ago? Also trying to figure out if I can put everything back together and do a fix that doesn’t require taking things apart to get access to the radiator, or if I should leave it taken apart to do the fix. Guess it depends on the fix…

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[prwood]

Thinking about trying this idea:

[abscate]

Ooof. I would get a new one , but I bought my last one from FreeCP

I don’t see that patching well. Try non quick setting JB weld , nothing to lose

[prwood]

Ooof. I would get a new one , but I bought my last one from FreeCP

I don’t see that patching well. Try non quick setting JB weld , nothing to lose

abscate - Just came across this advice in one of your replies on a different thread a couple days ago... would you recommend the same in my situation or no?

viewtopic.php?p=595669&hilit=radiator#p595669

[abscate]

Neil has a leak at the plastic to metal interface where you can reclamp it with a high leverage tool.

A pin hole has to be found, cleaned, dried. JB weld will work , if you can get it applied. Don’t be afraid to Dremel out some of the thin metal heat sink to get access to the hole in the flowing horizontal pipe

I would want that out on the bench to try to plug it, and that point, a new one goes in, but , I also like a challenge.

Worst case , plug lets go, coolant loss , warped head….ooops, didn’t mean to say that out loud