2001 V70 2.4T Brake Failure Service Urgent / Power Fluctuations / Engine Shuddering

[prwood]

I ordered a Nissens radiator from FCP: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo- ... v70-xc70-1 - it gets some mixed reviews due to the lack of metal sleeves in the hose fittings, slight misalignment of some parts, cheaper construction. I had previously replaced the radiator in August 2018 after the upper hose fitting developed a crack. At that time I ordered a CSF radiator from RockAuto which overall seemed to fit fine. Hopefully the Nissen won't be too much of a hassle to fit in, and this time I get the free FCP replacement if I bork it again...

Unfortunately I don't remember much about how the previous job went, but I do have a few photos of myself with huge bruises on my upper arms apparently from leaning over the hood all day. I also found a post I made here with some tips written when I was working on the job originally: viewtopic.php?p=478924#p478924 -- thanks past me for writing it down, because I certainly don't remember those things! I also don't remember what I ended up doing with the bottom bolts - guess I'll figure that out soon enough when I go to take them off again!

Have scheduled Monday and Tuesday off work to install it... best case scenario it won't take that long and I'll have an extra day off to relax... worst case scenario I'll need both days.

[prwood]

Going over the VIDA radiator replacement instructions again (yup... if you recall, this ALL started because of replacing the voltage regulator )... there are FOUR different entries for this procedure. The text and graphics are ALMOST identical on all four of them, but there seem to be a few very slight wording differences. LOL. I guess they have it listed that way so that it will come up in their search function regardless of how a technician searches for the procedure, or whether they're searching for radiator or charge air cooler.

VIDA Radiator-CAC.png (53.4 KiB) Viewed 537 times

[prwood]

Another random thing I found while perusing VIDA. There was a brief instruction for replacing the voltage regulator (or "governor" as VIDA calls it), which are pretty straightforward, but the interesting bit was what I noticed in this diagram:

GovernorReplacementDiagram.png (20.49 KiB) Viewed 535 times

Notice the positioning of the main alternator cable - from bottom to top it goes regulator, cover plate, washer, cable connector, nut, plastic cover. The cable connector is sandwiched between the washer and the nut. I have it installed with the cable connector directly against the cover plate, and the washer and nut sitting on top of it. Do you think that makes any difference?

[abscate]

P…info from the p80 forum..looks like JB holds for months

96 850 Turbo has had a cracked radiator for months, which I fixed with JB Weld, but after months now the fix is coming loose and this week I am having the radiator replaced.

[cn90]

Radiator...

1- Brand: Nissens ($120) vs Volvo Genuine ($300+).
You can read the reviews on FCP website and make your own decision re brand.
While there, replace the trans cooler green clips and O-rings (use only Volvo parts for this).

https://www.fcpeuro.com/Parts/?keywords=31319056

2- Procedure: I posted a few photos on the anatomy.
Once you see the anatomy (basically 3 items are sandawiched together), then you will know what to do.
Thread started by @abscate, I posted the photo in this thread.

P2 V70 R radiator r/r 31319056, parts review
https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forum ... hp?t=88976

[cn90]

Another good DIY P2 radiator:

https://www.swedespeed.com/threads/help ... up.393489/

[abscate]

The p80 uses small M6 screws into metal clips to hold the radiator-intercoller-ac/condensor together. Those metal clips are nasty.everything near the heat of the radiator rusts if it isn’t SS

Did they improve that on the P2?

I replace them with cheap ss m6 bolts nuts, drilling a 1 inch access hole in the plastic radiator mount for access , too

If you go that route, professor Dremel visits and removes the nasties

[prwood]

I received the Nissens radiator yesterday and inspected it - no shipping damage. It also seems very solidly built, both the metal and plastic parts. Even though the coolant hose fittings are made of plastic, they're very thick and feel sturdy, and I don't see any danger of them breaking unless I cranked down on the clamp ridiculously hard. Having worked with the coolant hoses enough times I feel I have a good sense of the right level of tightness.

There are many reviews on FCP and they're mostly positive, so I feel pretty good about it. FCP only has three reviews of the Genuine Volvo part and they're positive as one would expect. But I'm not prepared to pay that price at this point.

As I mentioned I did go through this all before, and even wrote up my own tips...

https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forum ... 24#p478924

...which I'll be referring to myself. My memory fails on what I did with the bottom screws, as I didn't update my post after that point. I have a vague recollection that maybe I did manage to clean up the threads on the condenser enough that the screws threaded back in, but we shall see.

[abscate]

I killed a p80 Nissens radiator letting my radiator mount come loose. (Ok, I used a zip tie). Took about 4 years or so

Thst stressed the upper rad hose to the point it loosened the plastic to aluminum compression joint

Fcp was real nice and sent me a new one, even after I came clean this was user error.

[prwood]

474162DB-6E51-411D-91C2-8D7CF749C009.jpeg (242.92 KiB) Viewed 457 times

Ok… this time around one of the lower screws gave out - it snapped off at the point where the radiator and intercooler meet, so the radiator is loose but the intercooler and condenser are still attached by a rusty screw. So now I’ve got to drill it out and find a nut/bolt set to replace it. Taking a lunch break to clear my head and energize before moving on…