Front axle/ transmission seal ?

Post by **GlennG2759** » 11 Mar 2022, 08:45

I’m going to reboot my front axle, the outer boot is split and slinging grease. Should I replace the trans output seal while I have the axle out or take the “if it ain’t broke don’t fix it” approach? Thanks in advance for opinions. Glenn

Post by **abscate** » 11 Mar 2022, 08:48

I leave these alone if not leaking. It’s not a bad job to do, but none of my 990,000 accumulated Volvo mile cars have needed one

Post by **SuperHerman** » 11 Mar 2022, 19:25

If you are careful pulling it out usually you are fine. If you let the axle slap around you may cause damage and have a leak.

How many miles?

Post by **cn90** » 11 Mar 2022, 21:35

In the P80 (I used to have a 1998 S70 GLT), the axle seals leaked at around 120K or so.

When I rebooted the CV axles, I replaced using Corteco seals.
The tricks are written in that DIY (basically removing the old seal using a screw, then tap the Corteco seal in gently using a wood block, then another 2-3 mm using PVC coupler).

Be very careful to document to factory seal position (take photo) and install the new seal in the same exact position!Go SLOW and be methodical, you will be fine.

Post by **GlennG2759** » 12 Mar 2022, 04:28

Post by **abscate** » 12 Mar 2022, 06:46

Hmmm, kind of on the edge. How much are you driving it annually? It’s not a horrible job to do, and you will need a front wheel bearing in the next 50k anyway. We aren’t Iowa, after all.

Post by **cn90** » 12 Mar 2022, 09:59

My philosophy is...

- If you have the seal on hand, then yes replace it.

- If you don't have the seal, then button everything back and drive the car like usual.
At 120K-200K, these seals can leak any time. Just inspect them once every 2-3 months
using a flash light and shine through the wheel wells. No need to remove the wheel for inspection.
Just pay attention to the area directly beneath the axle where it meets the trans housing.
Of course, you need to wipe it clean now, so any leak can be easily spotted.
As @abscate said, the seal job is not that bad, it can be done later.
The "dirty" job is the rebooting the CV joint rubber covers.

- If you send the cars thousands of miles away from home (kids in college), then yes, replace the seal after 120K.

- Brand matters, I have been using CORTECO seals, they look identical to Volvo genuine seals.
From my research, CORTECO is likely the supplier for these Volvo factory seals.

Post by **erikv11** » 12 Mar 2022, 10:54

My philosophy on axle seals is about the same- they are cheap and easy to replace when the axle is out, a hassle to mess with at most other times. At 124k it should have plenty of life remaining but I'd probably put in a new one, or not sweat it if it came time to do the job and I didn't have one on hand. As stated the widely accepted standard on this forum is Corteco or Volvo branded. I don't trust the other brands for this part. Use a wood block to install and get it exactly flush with the casing, no more no less.

Post by **cn90** » 12 Mar 2022, 11:55

The DEPTH of insertion is important in any seals, whether it is cam, crank, trans etc.
This is why Volvo designed different installation tools for different seals.

Seal installation tool is nothing more than correct O.D. (of the tool) and correct DEPTH.
At factory, workers just use the tool and hammer it in, it will be in the correct depth.

At home, most of us do not have the Volvo tool, so I use a combo of wood block and PVC Coupler.
See step #5 in the DIY below...

DIY: 2004 V70 2.5T Axle and Seal (110K miles)
viewtopic.php?f=9&t=91594