Brake Booster in-car seal replacement, question for Oragex

[jonesg]

in those situations I usually try to order a few different parts if they aren't expensive.

[firstv70volvo]

Good information. I did update this in the video description. So the only way to be sure what to order is to read your old seal ? That would mean you have to first remove it from there, before ordering, which is quite inconvenient.

Yes, no easy task to get the part number off the original seal.

When looking at the two seals, my original seal (top one in photo) and the one from URO it looks like the primary difference is edge of seal that's first inserted into the brake booster opening. The upper lip on the original seal also looks to be a little larger. The damaged that occurred both times during the installation was the upper sealing lip, it tore away when doing the final seating of the seal with the angled end of the supplied pipe (see photo). I also split the lower part of the 1st replacement seal when trying to install the seal while the brake booster was still in the car. The second attempt was on the bench.

After looking at the seal difference I'm not certain the difference between the seals is what cause the damage during installation unless the thickness of the seals is also different, which I couldn't determine. The URO seal fit was very tight in the opening and once the seal was fully seated most of the way around and the last remaining section to seat was a very tight fit and that's when the upper lip of the seal tore away. As I mentioned before the brake booster out of my car has a pretty sharp edge where the seal is inserted so I'm wondering if this contributed to the problem and if there were later changes to the brake booster seal opening.

Seal insertion edge III.jpg (30.27 KiB) Viewed 1829 times

[gnalan]

Is the part number on the brake booster easily seem from under the hood? Maybe that's one way to find the correct seal number to avoid any problems.

I try to do that with any part before I buy it. If I can find the factory part number, I can usually find the parts that are connected to it or are designed to work with it.

Struts are one example. They used several different versions on the same year and model that it's almost impossible to order a direct replacement part without the original part number.

[xHeart]

The other day I attempted to replace the leaking brake booster seal in the car as shown in the Oragex Youtube video, which is excellent. Even with the detailed instructions and tips I was still unsuccessful as I cut the seal during the install. I almost had the seal lip fully tucked in but as I pressed on the seal to insert the final part of the seal edge the seal tore. Ended up replacing the brake booster with a remanufacture one but now that I have the original booster on the workbench I think I know what happened...

Thank you for your post, firstv70volvo.
Our 2001 V70XC is hissing at 206,000 miles, what else would you include in the service. FCP shows this ATE 8649491 replacement part?

[firstv70volvo]

The other day I attempted to replace the leaking brake booster seal in the car as shown in the Oragex Youtube video, which is excellent. Even with the detailed instructions and tips I was still unsuccessful as I cut the seal during the install. I almost had the seal lip fully tucked in but as I pressed on the seal to insert the final part of the seal edge the seal tore. Ended up replacing the brake booster with a remanufacture one but now that I have the original booster on the workbench I think I know what happened...

Thank you for your post, firstv70volvo.
Our 2001 V70XC is hissing at 206,000 miles, what else would you include in the service. FCP shows this ATE 8649491 replacement part?

You'll need at least one 32 oz bottle of brake fluid to thoroughly bleed all four wheels because you'll be removing the master cylinder and brake lines to the master cylinder. I recommend removing the two master cylinder lines at the ABS module too so you don't have to bend them to make room for the brake booster removal. Get a flare nut wrench if you don't have one for the brake lines to avoid rounding off the nuts when loosening them. If you don't have one and can afford one a Motive power bleeder works well. The European one has the right cap to screw onto the reservoir. Long extension, a deep socket and a universal joint is helpful under the dash when removing the four brake booster mounting nuts. I think I used 1/4 inch extensions and universal joint to remove the nuts.
Watch Oragex's video about the brake pedal switch, very helpful.

https://www.amazon.com/Motive-Products- ... 2430&psc=1

[xHeart]

You'll need at least one 32 oz bottle of brake fluid to thoroughly bleed all four wheels because you'll be removing the master cylinder and brake lines to the master cylinder. I recommend removing the two master cylinder lines at the ABS module too so you don't have to bend them to make room for the brake booster removal. Get a flare nut wrench if you don't have one for the brake lines to avoid rounding off the nuts when loosening them. If you don't have one and can afford one a Motive power bleeder works well. The European one has the right cap to screw onto the reservoir. Long extension, a deep socket and a universal joint is helpful under the dash when removing the four brake booster mounting nuts. I think I used 1/4 inch extensions and universal joint to remove the nuts.
Watch Oragex's video about the brake pedal switch, very helpful.

Thank you for sharing! The weather is friendlier to prepare for the brake booster replacement.

Reviewing the scope of this service, the VIDA instruction does not separate reservoir from the master cylinder for removal. Knowing the age and mileage (22yr/210,000 miles), do I separate the reservoir from master cylinder, service and assemble it back together using new seals as a preventive task; item 27 in pix below. What else can be serviced while I'm there? TIA!

[firstv70volvo]

You'll need at least one 32 oz bottle of brake fluid to thoroughly bleed all four wheels because you'll be removing the master cylinder and brake lines to the master cylinder. I recommend removing the two master cylinder lines at the ABS module too so you don't have to bend them to make room for the brake booster removal. Get a flare nut wrench if you don't have one for the brake lines to avoid rounding off the nuts when loosening them. If you don't have one and can afford one a Motive power bleeder works well. The European one has the right cap to screw onto the reservoir. Long extension, a deep socket and a universal joint is helpful under the dash when removing the four brake booster mounting nuts. I think I used 1/4 inch extensions and universal joint to remove the nuts.
Watch Oragex's video about the brake pedal switch, very helpful.

Thank you for sharing! The weather is friendlier to prepare for the brake booster replacement.

Reviewing the scope of this service, the VIDA instruction does not separate reservoir from the master cylinder for removal. Knowing the age and mileage (22yr/210,000 miles), do I separate the reservoir from master cylinder, service and assemble it back together using new seals as a preventive task; item 27 in pix below. What else can be serviced while I'm there? TIA!

I'd consider having items 2 and 6 on hand, the o-ring between the master cylinder and brake booster and the gasket between the brake booster and firewall. I recall I didn't get a new gasket with the brake booster I purchased and had to reuse the original one.

[gnalan]

If you're going to replace the brake booster you should replace the vacuum lines while it's out, too. You'll have more hand room to replace them, and one less thing to worry about in the future.

[xHeart]

If you're going to replace the brake booster you should replace the vacuum lines while it's out, too. You'll have more hand room to replace them, and one less thing to worry about in the future.

Thank you!

Does the 2001 V70XC utilizes vacuum pump and does it fail?

[gnalan]

Only turbo cars use a vacuum pump.