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Subframe Bushing insert job

Help, Advice, Owners' Discussion and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's stylish, distinctive P2 platform cars sold as model years 2001-2007 (North American market year designations).

2001 - 2007 V70
2001 - 2004 V70 XC (Cross Country)
2004 - 2007 XC70 (Cross Country)
2001 - 2009 S60
2003 - 2007 S60 R
2004 - 2007 V70 R

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lawrencium265
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Re: Subframe Bushing insert job

Post by lawrencium265 »

azureblue wrote: 22 Mar 2022, 08:22 Every vid I have seen of the job is done with the car on a lift. I wish I had one, so it will done on the ground. I see there is enough clearance under the car to remove the bracket without having the wheels off the ground - and if I drive the car on top of a 2 x 6 board, I think I can reach under and remove the bracket. It looks to me like if I lifted the car just enough to take the weight off the wheels, the job is doable. IOW, let the wheels support the weight of the subframe...
The wheels do not support the subframe at all. The weight of the vehicle is entirely on the spring. The control arm only "controls" the wheels position. The entire front drivetrain is sitting on the subframe which is being held in with the 4 bolts. When I did mine I did it on the floor with the car jacked up. I took the entire subframe out and I supported the engine with a support brace.

vtl
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Post by vtl »

I was lowering one corner at a time, with all four wheels on the ramps/blocks. Don't forget to release the steering column adjustment lock and lower the steering wheel itself, to allow the steering shaft some travel.

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darylrobert
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Post by darylrobert »

If you changing the bushings, do not use moly grease on the bushings..i think mine may be shifting causing a clunk because of this, or it might be the aftermarket Meyle end links i saved some money and installed at the same. Buy genuine volvo or what they use and dont install multiple things at the same time....

azureblue
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Post by azureblue »

Thanks - I saw some vid where the guy used some sort of silicone lube to get them in. Yep - one thing at a time. I am going to do the rear bushings first, then do the fronts after a road test..
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Blacklab467
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Post by Blacklab467 »

I didn't need to disconnect the steering shaft to do mine, you may elect to on the V70 but I don't think its mandatory. Clean out the bore with some emery cloth and put a small amount of wheel bearing grease to aid installation. There is a method that I used to create a press from one of the subframe bolts to install the new ones that you'll see in my post.
Don't overthink it, the rear subframe bushings should take you less than 2 hours to change.
2003 XC 70 (sold)
2007 XC 70, 1970 Dodge Charger R/T.

vtl
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Post by vtl »

Blacklab467 wrote: 24 Mar 2022, 08:06 Don't overthink it, the rear subframe bushings should take you less than 2 hours to change.
There are like 20 of them, some are real tough. Or are you talking about 4 bushings only, the ones in the corners?

lawrencium265
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Post by lawrencium265 »

azureblue wrote: 24 Mar 2022, 07:57 Thanks - I saw some vid where the guy used some sort of silicone lube to get them in. Yep - one thing at a time. I am going to do the rear bushings first, then do the fronts after a road test..
I just swapped out two bushings yesterday (for reasons I don't recommend) and used my wheel bearing press kit again with the subframe in the car. My kit is one of the cheap "23 piece FWD wheel bearing remover"

I had to substitute a regular nut because the kit comes with a long nut. I also had to it se a bunch of the kit parts and washers as spacers. On install I used a round metal electrical "mud ring" so the bushing had somewhere to go.

This was on the left/drivers side, I had to loosen the right side bolts and engine mounts to do it this way, but pressing them out and in was a cake walk. The biggest issue on the left side is the two protrusions/alignment dowells/pins are in the way of any press tool.

It's such low pressure that I think you could use 3"? PVC pipe and a large bolt and nut and washers to make your own tool. Others have also made their own as well if you search.

One other note, make sure that your socket is snug on the bolt head. The final 120* torque procedure is enough that a loosely fitting socket will want to cock over and round the bolt head.

azureblue
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Post by azureblue »

Thanks - good to know. i was planning on borrowing a press from the auto parts store. Now I know what to look for in the kit.
And I have 6 point sockets for the big torque jobs.. I hope I can get the final torque with a 2 footer...
544
122s
144 wagon
240
740T Wagon
850R Wagon
2002 V70 Wagon
2014 S60 T5

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Blacklab467
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Post by Blacklab467 »

I’m not interested in self promotion but if you look at the link I posted to this thread on page 1 titled “ Subframe bushing replacement with pictures” it documents a very simple procedure to remove and replace the 4 subframe bushings on the front subframe, no special tools or presses required except a torque wrench. Total job duration of about 3 hours. Feel free to contact me if you have any questions .
2003 XC 70 (sold)
2007 XC 70, 1970 Dodge Charger R/T.

azureblue
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Post by azureblue »

Oh you did it now _ no doubt I will be in touch. Now all I need is a week end free of jump ups so I can do the work..
544
122s
144 wagon
240
740T Wagon
850R Wagon
2002 V70 Wagon
2014 S60 T5

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