PCV R&R - Losing the battle to the dreaded hidden Intake bolt Topic is solved

[GlennG2759]

Good to hear everything worked out and was waiting to see if you posted. I suspect your ext./welded socket didn't do the job. I've decided to remove the t stat housing also and am considering replacing the whole housing because everything in one piece ( housing, sensor, tstat). I'm at 100k. Is the long torx bit absolutely necessary? I was wondering about the coolant lines and dreaded banjo bolt, glad to hear I want have to deal with them. Sounds like a lot less plumbing than ihe 850 I am used to. I'll be starting mine this week. Thanks for the very useful info. Glenn

[a3inverter]

In my case, the long torx was necessary as all the torx sockets I had of that size were 1/2" drive and too short - no way they were going to clear. Completely worth the $7 I spent on that long torx. The left bolt that holds the PCV box to the block is also challenging to get to...definitely need a 10mm 1/4" drive with extension and wobble on that one.

[mrbrian200]

I've decided to remove the t stat housing also and am considering replacing the whole housing because everything in one piece ( housing, sensor, tstat).

On my second attempt I've come to that conclusion as well. The little 1/4" drive 10mm socket with a built in ball joint mentioned earlier doesn't get in there on my '06. The protrusion off the bottom of the thermostat housing that interferes with tools extends further back on the housing than pictures of other thermostat housings for these vehicles that I've seen (likely older). I even moved the power steering pump to get better access. It's just not gonna happen without removing the thermostat housing.

The T40 I have on hand is 3/8" drive (too fat, interference). So I guess there will be a third attempt at this again someday. I was so sure I was gonna get it this time. LOL.

[GlennG2759]

I ordered the x-long 3/8 drive T40 socket a3inverter suggested earlier in this subject post, it's supposed to arrive tomorrow. Have you seen it, he posted an amazon link to it. Yeah PS and T-STAT housing is coming out. Hopefully I start sometime this weekend, just want to make sure I have all my bases covered as far as tools. I'll post how I make out.

[mrbrian200]

Moving the power steering pump out of the way is not a big deal on these - maybe 5 minutes. Easier to unbolt/move it rather than trying to access the bolts in question with it in the way.

[cn90]

Hi @abscate or anyone,

Could someone post the exact crowfoot type that worked for you?

There are so many brands of crowfoot (Sunex, Performance Tools, Harbor Freight etc.).
I just need to buy the exact type that works for that tight space.

Has anyone used this particular 10-mm crowfoot tool for that infamous bolt?

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[cn90]

I am happy to declare that @abscate is right. The crowfoot is the ticket for the 2007 S60 2.5T...

For those of you who:
- Don't own the Snapon swivel socket mentioned earlier in this thread (it is btw $32 on ebay).
- Don't want to remove the thermostat housing.
BTW, if you have > 120K, you may as well replace the thermostat with new Volvo gasket.
More on this later...

I happen to own a Tekton crowfoot set, just found it in my garage...
- Tape the 10-mm crowfoot to the 9-inch long extension (Harbor Freight wobble extension set)
to avoid the crowfoot from falling off.
- A telescopic magnet (to retrieve lost bolt etc.) is a must when doing this job.
You can always stuff a rag below the area where you work in case the bolt falls off.
- A flash light is a must.
- Torque is about 14 ft*lb per forum. Just tighten it snug and add a bit more.
This bolt cannot come out anyway, it is blocked by the thermostat lower housing.
- Use the long screwdriver to push the crowfoot in so it bites properly.
Use a flash light to check for depth of the crowfoot onto the bolt.
In other words, the crowfoot needs to be squared onto the bolt (both lateral and depth aspects)
to avoid stripping the head.

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Volvo-Crowfoot-02.jpg (267.99 KiB) Viewed 1334 times

[erikv11]

...
This bolt near the thermostat for the 2003-2009 thermostats on non turbo engines it's the toughest guy to reach, the same bolt on the turbo engines with either the older or the newer thermostat model is easier to reach

cn90 (and anyone reading along for solutions) your car has a 2.5T (turbo) engine, for that engine it's "easy" to get to the bolt in a variety of ways. Turbo engine does not face the issue this thread is about.

But good to know a crow's foot works for turbos, anyway!

[cn90]

I do not have the 2.4L as the O.P.'s car is 2006 V70 2.4L...

My understanding is that different tsats:
- With or without the nipple for the small cooling hose that runs alongside PCV system.
- The 2.4L tstat w/o the nipple ---> the notch "might" stick out a bit more than the tstat with
nipple as shown in the photo. I don't know for sure bc I only take these photos from the web...

If I ever do this again, I'd do both the PCV system and the Thermostat at the same time,
simply bc thermostat lifespan is about 110K-120K etc. Once the thermostat housing is off
(I posted the tricks in the tstat thread using appropriate T30 key with 10-mm wrench;
also disconnect both large and small cooling hoses from the tstat first), the I.M. right lower bolt
is a piece of cake, no need to fool around with this socket, that socket, Snapon swivel socket,
crowfoot etc.

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[br0dy519]

I wasted more time trying to hack my way into removing this bolt than anything else.

Nothing is more infuriating than trying to save 15 minutes and $5 than wasting 2 hours of your time.

Remove the thermostat, replace the gasket. These shortcuts cause nothing other than headaches and stress. Neither of which I have the capacity for.

I have both the turbo (coolant line incl.) and the non turbo. Both are a complete PITA without removing the t-stat. Just do it and save your sanity.