Cannot get crank pulley off

iamhives · Post by **iamhives** » 30 Mar 2022, 22:57

I'm trying to do the timing belt at 210 k miles on my 2005 V70 2.4 NA . Well actually really my water pump which seems to be leaking although the prior owner said the belt was done about 30k miles ago but seemingly without the pump. I cannot get the crank pulley off. I have a corded 1/2" electric impact wrench. I soaked the 30mm nut in penetrating oil but its not moving. I put some more penetrating oil on and will try again tomorrow but any suggestions? I assume its a conventional left loosey nut !?

There are some Youtube videos showing the timing belt being changed without the crank pulley being taken off but I haven't been able to spot the alignment marks on the crank from the top so don't want to do that.

Post by **cn90** » 30 Mar 2022, 23:34

No need to remove crank pulley when doing TB job.
Info in forum.

Post by **abscate** » 31 Mar 2022, 04:40

Give the crank nut 30-60 seconds of heat from propane. Then a 1/2 inch impact tool will break it free. Don’t forget you need do the damper bolts too.

iamhives · Post by **iamhives** » 31 Mar 2022, 13:17

Tried again today but with no luck. I don't have a propane torch. How do I also stop the crank moving counterclockwise while I shoot it with the impact - not sure how bad is it to turn it slightly anticlock since all the instructions emphasize the need to only turn clockwise? (obviously I'd realign after its off)

Frankly, I'm erring towards doing it without taking the pulley off - is that a horrible mistake? It doesn't look that bad to squeeze the belt past the pulley on the videos I've looked at. Hell - the timing belt looks almost new and was supposedly replaced only about 25k miles ago so I could almost only replace the pump - but obviously that would be stupid (and I've already bought the whole replacement kit).

I've looked at the crank timing marks more closely and frankly can't really see the tiny notches on the crank gear groves. I do see the hump on the crank gear and its alignment to the 'boss' on the engine. I've put paint pen marks on the two gear teeth which straddle the alignment 'boss' and that seems to me to be enough to verify alignment. Maybe not the classic way to do it but do people think that would work?

Post by **firstv70volvo** » 31 Mar 2022, 14:23

iamhives wrote: ↑31 Mar 2022, 13:17 Tried again today but with no luck. I don't have a propane torch. How do I also stop the crank moving counterclockwise while I shoot it with the impact - not sure how bad is it to turn it slightly anticlock since all the instructions emphasize the need to only turn clockwise? (obviously I'd realign after its off)

Frankly, I'm erring towards doing it without taking the pulley off - is that a horrible mistake? It doesn't look that bad to squeeze the belt past the pulley on the videos I've looked at. Hell - the timing belt looks almost new and was supposedly replaced only about 25k miles ago so I could almost only replace the pump - but obviously that would be stupid (and I've already bought the whole replacement kit).

I've looked at the crank timing marks more closely and frankly can't really see the tiny notches on the crank gear groves. I do see the hump on the crank gear and its alignment to the 'boss' on the engine. I've put paint pen marks on the two gear teeth which straddle the alignment 'boss' and that seems to me to be enough to verify alignment. Maybe not the classic way to do it but do people think that would work?

Are you using an impact socket? The heavier the thicker the socket wall the more impact energy from the gun will be transferred. They even make a special very thick wall socket for the Honda crank bolts but unfortunately it's not the correct size for Volvos.

You can do this without removing the crank pulley. It is more difficult to see the timing marks and I just look for the one (1of 2 right or forward) timing mark aligned to the right of the reference rib on the engine. Use a good light.
You remove the plastic shield under the crank pulley held on by two 10mm bolts and when installing the new belt you turn it on edge to insert up behind the pulley. There's a couple of protrusions on the engine side that narrows the space so the belt needs to go in/up edge first.

Post by **jonesg** » 31 Mar 2022, 19:34

leave it be, no way it needs to come off.
new belt slips right in there after the dust shield is removed.

leapdragon · Post by **leapdragon** » 31 Mar 2022, 22:35

I've done multiple timing belts on the Volvo 5 engines and have never needed to take the crank pulley off.

Most of the time I don't even have t mess with the cams and timing marks, even on the VVTs.

I get a silver sharpie and make marks:

- Cams to cam cover
- Old belt silver cam mark to silver cam mark (to make sure I get the right # teeth between them
- Crank wheel to block

Then I just pull the old belt (there's a gap near the bottom of the crank pulley that the belt can just slide through, if you turn it sideways), lay it on the ground next to the new belt and copy over the silver marks to the new belt, slip it up from the bottom, crank pulley first, and then up and over the cams, making sure that I get all the marks lined up.

It's a little bit fiddly and usually takes 2-3 restarts to get the teeth and marks right, but it's not nearly as fiddly as trying to get the crank wheel off. That time needs to go to the water pump, idler, tensioner, etc.

Post by **vtl** » 01 Apr 2022, 12:33

Did 4 engines with 1/2" 7.5 Amps impact wrench, no problem. For how long do you push the trigger? On an older engine it may take quite a bit of time, but still less than a minute in total.

iamhives · Post by **iamhives** » 02 Apr 2022, 12:15

OK. In the process of doing the timing belt/pump/tensioner/idler without taking teh crank pulley off.

Going OK so far. I'm currently installing the pump. Looks like the hardest thing (at least so far) is cleaning the water pump sealing surface. Most of the gasket came away with the pump so no large bits but there are a couple of spots near the positioning dowels that I can't for the life of me get perfect. I'm planning on installing the gasket dry (no sealant of any sort).
What is the torque value for the water pump bolts. I've seen 15 ft/lb (20Nm) and 13ft/lb in various places so not sure what is the correct one.

Also what is the torque for the belt tensioner bolt - I've seen 19ft/lb and 15 ft/lb. Maybe these vary by year. Mine is a 2005 non turbo

And finally, its 55 degrees fahrenheit today and the car hasn't been run for a couple of days. Should I set the tension to the middle setting. It currently seems to be set to the right which is the hot setting so think that means that it was set to tight (maybe better than being too loose I guess)

Post by **vtl** » 02 Apr 2022, 12:27

Middle setting. Any torque you mentioned is ok, you'll have more variation in your torque wrench anyways