Cannot get crank pulley off

[abscate]

There is a chassis break when the direction of setting the tensioner reverses, so you need your engine number to get the right info.

[iamhives]

Chassis number is 570418 and engine code is 3861511. Its actually a 2006 (I'm getting my V70's mixed up!) so it is the newer tensioner (correct me if I'm wrong)

The job is basically done, I just want to check I've set the timing belt tensioner correctly. Its a little confusing between teh two tensioner types since its not clear in all of the videos I've seen what year and which tensioner is being used. It sounds like the two tensiones loosen/tighten and loose in different directions? Can someone confirm that

Old tensioner (before engine number 3188689), loosen is clockwise and tighten is anticlock

New tensioner (after engine 3188689) loosen is anticlockwise and tighten is clockwise.

Also for the newer tensioner what is the position of the hex hole to start and when tensioned. Currently with the tensioner in what I think is the right position for medium tension the hex bolt hole seems to be in about 2 o/clock position. I started with the hex hole at ~ 11 o'clock turned clockwise to about 2 o'clock. Is this correct?

[jonesg]

if the tensioner indicator ends up where it should be, between the 2 tabs, it doesn't matter .

[abscate]

You start with the tensioner at 10 o/c

You overtighten the belt, depending on engine number, then loosen it back to the correct tension position

Tighten the timing belt:
There are two variants of the belt tensioner.
From (sic, should be up to ). engine number 3188688 the eccentric must be turned anticlockwise to tighten the belt.
From engine number 3188689 the eccentric must be turned clockwise to tension the belt.
turn the crankshaft clockwise carefully until the camshaft belt is tensioned. The belt should be tight between the intake camshaft pulley, idler pulley and crankshaft.
hold the center screw on the belt tensioner in position and turn the eccentric on the belt tensioner clockwise/anticlockwise, depending on the variant, until the tensioner's needle passes the marked position.
Then turn the eccentric back so that the indicator reaches the marked position in the center of the window.
Secure the eccentric and tighten the center screw to 20 Nm .
Check that the needle is in the correct position.

[iamhives]

Thanks for everyones help. The job is done and the car started up and ran fine. No vibration of the tensioner and the belts ran straight and true. Really wasn't that bad. The worst parts for me were the easier ones - getting the timing belt cover under the crank pulley back in the right place, cleaning the old gasket off and trying and failing to get the crank pulley off - unnecessary as it turns out. Seemed to run smoother and quieter than before (maybe belt and tensioner noise reduced). As it was, everyhting I replaced was in OK condition and it just seems that the WP gasket was leaking.

Just for the record and to help people who read this thread in the future, I think Abscate, in your post above there is a slight typo and the first 'From' should be 'up to'. Anyway, with the new tensioner (roughly 2005 and up I believe), tightening is clockwise .

[abscate]

Thanks for catching that typo…ill let Volvo know!

[famfeld]

I always put a 1/2 in. Socket with breaker bar on the pulley bolt and just ingage the starter without starting ghe engine. Has worked for me for years.

[abscate]

I’ve heard that works, Feld m but that is awful on your starter, Bendix, flywheel teeth. All horribly expensive stuff to fix if breaks.

[jonesg]

I’ve heard that works, Feld m but that is awful on your starter, Bendix, flywheel teeth. All horribly expensive stuff to fix if breaks.

it worked on my 740 , disconnecting the ignition was much simpler with the distributor right there.
A quick blip of the key is all it takes. It doesn't help when it comes to tightening.

[vtl]

1/2" impact wrench capable enough to do that nut is under $90 on Amazon.