P2 brake bleed nipples, Brake Bleed Screw is ATE-390354 Topic is solved

[cn90]

Update,

The good news is the ATE bleed screw (mentioned above) is EXACTLY identical to Volvo factory bleed screw.

I ordered a few ATE bleed screws from FCPEuro ($3.39/each).
Autohausaz.com sells it for $4.99/each.

I have a spare S60 caliper lying around, installed the new ATE bleed screw, it fits perfectly.
So, for those of you who want to replace the bleed screws as preventive measure, this (ATE bleed screw) is much cheaper.
FYI, ATE is a hugh brake mfg in Europe, supplying brake calipers to Volvo, BMW, Mercedes, Porsche, Jaguar etc. etc., so there are a lot of similar parts among different cars.

As a reminder, spray some PB Blaster etc into the screw threads one week ahead of time
(Remove the rubber cap and spray some lubricant down the small hole, the allows lubricant
to seep through the small bleed holes to soak the rust that builds up along the threads).
This will make it much easier to remove the bleeder screw.

PS: Hi @abscate or any mod, could you add the ATE PN on the original Title Thread to make it easier for other readers?
I suggest changing the Thread Title to "Brake Bleed Screw is ATE-390354"...

Photo:

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[cn90]

Forgot to mention,

This ATE bleed screw fits many BMW models too (for those of us who also own BMWs).
Just do a quick google search to see which BMWs it fits.

Even if your model is not listed, you need to try yourself.
As long as the thread is M10 x1.0, it should work on many ATE calipers.

[cn90]

Another update.

Now the 2007 S60 RIGHT REAR brake caliper...the bleeder screw is broken as shown (I should have waited a bit
for the penetrating fluid to get in)...

- The brake hose part: I don't want to mess with the upstream part.
The part inside the caliper: it is seized and won't come out with flare wrench, so I quit.

- The broken bleeder screw: I am looking down the hollow hole as we speak.
I don't have time to address it now but options are:

1. Since I already bled the other 3 circuits, I guess I can leave this alone, the brake pad wear is the
same both LR and RR sides. So I assume no air bubbles inside this RR caliper.
So I might leave this alone.
If and whenever I need to replace the RR caliper, I can replace the hose at the same time?

2. Reverse tap later (after heating it up a bit). I might try this later.

3. Drill it larger and larger until it meets the threads of the caliper?
Of course I will be careful not to damage the caliper's threads.
In other words, by the time you drill it to almost the threads area, the brake bleeder screw's side
wall is so thin anyway, you should be able to pick it with a picking tool?
Has anyone tried this technique?

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S60-Brake-Bleeder-Screw-01.jpg (515.55 KiB) Viewed 2562 times

S60-Brake-Bleeder-Screw-02.jpg (333.87 KiB) Viewed 2562 times

[abscate]

You want to use heat on those bleeders, always. 30 seconds with propane will get them loose, without melting any rubber or boiling brake fluid.

A pencil type torch will work on that hose union, too. I use oxy mapp with a fine tip flame to heat just the metal

[volvolugnut]

Yes, when you get down to threads only, you can (slowly) pick out the threads in pieces. A SLIGHT loss of threads in the caliper is not harmful. Put a small ball of tape in the bottom of the hole first to catch shavings.
volvolugnut

[cn90]

I have another caliper with broken bleeder sitting on my garage shelf, so I tried to have fun today drilling out the broken bleeder...I gave up bc I could not get a proper drilling for a tap to renew the factory threads.

Options for those with broken bleeder:

1. Do nothing, leave it alone, chances are you are OK if you never allowed air in the system to start with.
Wait until the caliper goes bad or hose is bad, then replace both.
Or...when you squeeze the piston inward, tilt the caliper so any air is pushed back into the system. Then bleed the air out into another circuit???

2. Sometimes the brake hose connection at caliper is seized and you cannot undo it to bleed. Some WD40, and heat may help.

3. Someone told me another option is the repair kit (a new sleeve and new bleeder, cost is about $8-$10) as shown in this video below. You need to tap new threads, apply Blue Loctite, wait for the Loctite to dry. Of course clean any metal shavings from caliper first...

[cn90]

I have an idea and wonder what others think regarding the RR broken bleeder screw
and seized connections. It is basically reverse bleeding in this situation...

1. BEST: test it...spin the RR wheel and ask someone to step on the brake pedal.
If the RR wheel stops, then braking effect is likely OK.
You might have old fluid in the caliper but you can always wait until the caliper fails and
replace the caliper + rubber hose at that time.
This is exactly what I am doing now, I simply bleed the other 3 wheels and done.

2. Now, for those with OCD, I wonder what others think about this idea:
- Let's say for sake of discussion: you have old fluid and *maybe* 2-3 air bubbles inside
the RR caliper.
- The idea is to bleed the air bubbles out of the other 3 wheels.
- The brake caliper itself holds about > 20 cc of fluid
(Piston diamter ~ 4 cm, pad thickness 1.2 cm ---> max travel 2.4 cm; so:
Volume = π x 2^2 x 2.4 = ~ 30 cc),
- I.D. of brake pipe is ~ 2 mm. Let's say distance from RR caliper to main ABS unit is 2 meters.
Using formula A = π r ^2, with L = 200 cm, r = 0.1 cm, the volume inside the brake pipe
(from RR caliper ---> main ABS unit) is about 6.28 cc.
- Max caliper piston coming out is min rotor thickness + min pad or 26 mm + 6 mm + 6 mm =
38 mm, or thickness of a piece of 2 x 4 wood.

- So, this is my thinking, let's see what you guys think...

a. Bleed the other wheels first so there is fresh fluid in the system except for the RR circuit.

b. Undo the caliper (7-mm Hex or remove 13-mm bolts, up to you) and support the caliper
with something (jack stand or some wood)

c. If you have worn out pads, then it is great bc you have about > 20 cc in the RR circuit.
If not, place a piece of 2 x 4 wood and slowly press on the brake pedal to extend the piston.
Make sure you have the correct wood thickness bc you don't want to expel the piston!

d. With the piston fully extended, hold the caliper in such a way the hose connection (near
the broken bleeder area) is UPWARD so any air bubble will rise and exit via the hose, you
can now squeeze the piston using the brake tool or big channel-lock pliers: old fluid and
any air bubbles are now pushed back upstream.

e. Now, place a bigger piece of wood in the retracted position so it does not come out
during another bleeding cycle. However, I use air compressor set at 10 psi (info in forum),
and this pressure is not enough to push the piston back out.

f. You may need VIDA to bleed air bubbles out of ABS unit etc.

g. Now bleed the other 3 wheels again the expel any air bubbles out.

h. Re-install the RR caliper, and slowly press brake pedal.
Now, test the RR wheel brake by spinning the wheel and ask a helper to press on the
brake pedal.

Photos to show my points...
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S60-Brake-Caliper.jpg (69.38 KiB) Viewed 805 times

S60-Brake-Caliper-02.jpg (65.44 KiB) Viewed 805 times