2002 S60 - Preemptive Siren Battery Replacement
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coflynn
- Posts: 174
- Joined: 18 June 2009
- Year and Model: 2002 S60 AWD
- Location: halifax, NS
- Been thanked: 6 times
2002 S60 - Preemptive Siren Battery Replacement
Since the main thread is in the S80 forum, thought I'd post this here. I did the siren module battery replacement on my car despite having no symptoms, as was worried that perhaps the battery would start leaking soon & then I'd be screwed. Here's what my battery looked like (need to be logged in for this image to show):
The main thread is at https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... 11&t=17479 - basically followed that, although didn't disconnect battery (not needed according to VIDA). May be worth doing especially if you have front right wheel off for something else.
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IdahoBob
- Posts: 97
- Joined: 16 January 2011
- Year and Model: XC70 02, 04 & 08
- Location: Whitefish, Montana
- Has thanked: 1 time
- Been thanked: 4 times
Coflynn,
Thanks!
The photos are especially nice to see when doing these for the first time.
As an alternative to fixing or replacing the alarm, when I had one start doing the crazy stuff indicating time for new battery or alarm, I disconnected the alarm by removing the fuse, and then having the dealership mechanic de-program the alarm function when I was in the shop for a software update on another system. I think I paid an extra $40 for this additional 45 seconds of work; but it was much less than replacing the alarm box (mine was corroded past the ability to just change out the battery.) I could then replace the fuse, and get other functions on this circuit; but not have false alarms. The little red blinky light on the dash still blinks when I lock the car, just no alarm.
No big theft problems for Volvos where I live, so no worries.
Thanks!
The photos are especially nice to see when doing these for the first time.
As an alternative to fixing or replacing the alarm, when I had one start doing the crazy stuff indicating time for new battery or alarm, I disconnected the alarm by removing the fuse, and then having the dealership mechanic de-program the alarm function when I was in the shop for a software update on another system. I think I paid an extra $40 for this additional 45 seconds of work; but it was much less than replacing the alarm box (mine was corroded past the ability to just change out the battery.) I could then replace the fuse, and get other functions on this circuit; but not have false alarms. The little red blinky light on the dash still blinks when I lock the car, just no alarm.
No big theft problems for Volvos where I live, so no worries.
Idaho Bob
67, 71, 85, 98 wagons (sold)
78 coupe (gave to mechanic, thanks!)
02, 04 (X2) & 08 XC70's
before that: 67 Sunbeam, several pre-68 VW's, '41 Buick, '42 Ford Jeep, and some boring stuff
67, 71, 85, 98 wagons (sold)
78 coupe (gave to mechanic, thanks!)
02, 04 (X2) & 08 XC70's
before that: 67 Sunbeam, several pre-68 VW's, '41 Buick, '42 Ford Jeep, and some boring stuff
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coflynn
- Posts: 174
- Joined: 18 June 2009
- Year and Model: 2002 S60 AWD
- Location: halifax, NS
- Been thanked: 6 times
I used 2x of these devices: http://dx.com/p/qoop-gd-303-3-6v-210mah ... een-197921 . You need to solder them in series - on the S80 thread I posted a photo of the internals with the new batteries.
Other people posted some other options for battery back... anything @ 7.2V, around 240mAh NiMH will work fine.
Other people posted some other options for battery back... anything @ 7.2V, around 240mAh NiMH will work fine.
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cn90
- Posts: 8251
- Joined: 31 March 2010
- Year and Model: 2004 V70 2.5T
- Location: Omaha NE
- Has thanked: 4 times
- Been thanked: 466 times
I have a basic questions...
I have never heard about this issue in my 1998 BMW 528i or 2003 BMW 325i etc. I assume the BMW engineers design the alarm such that the main battery (in the trunk) supplies power to the siren in case it is going off.
Back to the Volvo...
1. What is the purpose of this NiMH battery? Is it to sound the siren?
2. With such a small battery how long can the battery sound the siren?
I have never heard about this issue in my 1998 BMW 528i or 2003 BMW 325i etc. I assume the BMW engineers design the alarm such that the main battery (in the trunk) supplies power to the siren in case it is going off.
Back to the Volvo...
1. What is the purpose of this NiMH battery? Is it to sound the siren?
2. With such a small battery how long can the battery sound the siren?
2004 V70 2.5T 100K+
2005 XC90 2.5T 110K+
2005 XC90 2.5T 110K+
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nickbw898
- Posts: 48
- Joined: 24 December 2009
- Year and Model: xc702002
- Location: Portsmouth, Hampshire
- Has thanked: 1 time
- Been thanked: 5 times
When refitting siren mount upside down it is doable and job is best done when front nose cone is fully removed for access. Then if the battery leaks it will not land on the pub and kill it!
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cn90
- Posts: 8251
- Joined: 31 March 2010
- Year and Model: 2004 V70 2.5T
- Location: Omaha NE
- Has thanked: 4 times
- Been thanked: 466 times
Since the main thread is in S80 forum (not much traffic there):
viewtopic.php?p=599678#p599678
I wonder if someone can help me...
1. Can someone give an update on battery brand (Varta vs Chinese Battery on ebay)?
What brand/type that allows a direct dropin w/o too much soldering etc.)?
2. Once you fix the problem (with either a brand-new siren module or new battery etc.),
do you need to use VIDA to clear the error message on the dash or it goes away by itself?
viewtopic.php?p=599678#p599678
I wonder if someone can help me...
1. Can someone give an update on battery brand (Varta vs Chinese Battery on ebay)?
What brand/type that allows a direct dropin w/o too much soldering etc.)?
2. Once you fix the problem (with either a brand-new siren module or new battery etc.),
do you need to use VIDA to clear the error message on the dash or it goes away by itself?
2004 V70 2.5T 100K+
2005 XC90 2.5T 110K+
2005 XC90 2.5T 110K+
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chrism
- Posts: 1307
- Joined: 28 January 2009
- Year and Model: S80 / 2005
- Location: Atlanta, GA
- Has thanked: 7 times
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Here’s a little exercise I went through a few years ago to have a replacement battery pack constructed at Batteries + and relocated it to the ECM/TCM box. I then realized I was too late to save the circuit board. I don’t know why I didn’t relocate the siren to under the hood while I was at it!! Fortunately for you, you were smart enough to address the issue preemptively.
Anyway you can browse the write-up it for whatever it’s worth.
https://www.brickboard.com/AWD/volvo/16 ... cated.html
Anyway you can browse the write-up it for whatever it’s worth.
https://www.brickboard.com/AWD/volvo/16 ... cated.html
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cn90
- Posts: 8251
- Joined: 31 March 2010
- Year and Model: 2004 V70 2.5T
- Location: Omaha NE
- Has thanked: 4 times
- Been thanked: 466 times
UPDATE on 2004 V70 2.5T with 128,600 miles, with "Alarm System Servicing" message intermittent on the dash...
- Of course the factory battery is all corroded and kaput, glad I caught this before the acid from the battery
damages the circuit board. My circuit board is still good. At least the factory battery lasted some 18 yrs!
- Bought a 7.2 V 320mAh Ni-Mh battery on ebay for $10.95.
- Brand-new siren alarm is $250 from dealer!
- The ebay battery cross-section is triangular (not round), the connector is a perfect fit, NO need to solder
or use butt connector. Just pay attention where the RED wire is supposed to go (using the factory
connector as guide) and simply plug it in.
- The ebay battery is $10.95 vs Varta ($25-$30 or so), per @oragex, Varta is better but it
is difficult to find. Once I already cut open the factory unit, subsequent servicing is easy bc I used silicone caulk
(the stuff you use the caulk window/door at home) to seal it with zip tie to help it cure in place.
- Use utility knife to score along the groove (watch your left hand fingers to avoid cut!). It took almost 1/2h
to score through, don't go too deep bc there are 2 wires running near the surface!
- For re-assembly, use clear silicone caulk around the edges and zip tie to help it secure in place.
- Since I do NOT want to play with the factory rivets at the splash guard, I took the bumper cover off, which is
actually very easy if you watch this video below. Just pay attention to the HL connector and fog light connectors
(if you have it). If your car has the intensive HL washer, the look up youtube how to d/c connect it (basically,
gently pull the bumper cover off a bit, the lift the metal C-clip to allow the intensive nozzle to come off).
- Also, my 2004 V70 (with HL wipers) has the alarm siren directly behind the right HL assembly. Once the
right HL assembly is off, it is a piece of cake.
- Since I already de-commissioned the HL wipers (I removed the wiper arms years ago), this makes the bumper
cover removal easier.
- The siren is held by two (2) 10-mm bolts, just loosen them, NO need to remove the 10-mm bolts.
If you have an off-set 10-mm wrench, then it is easy.
- Otherwise, you can improve access by loosening the side plastic piece (two T25 screws and 10-mm bolt as shown)
and loosening the two (2) plastic 10-mm nuts in the wheel well (turn the RF tire all the way to the right,
NO need to remove the tire).
- Slide the siren unit out, use a small screwdriver to depress the small tab and disconnect the connector.
Be gentle to avoid damage to the connector.
- Cut one "leg" of the black plastic covering the battery, remove any sharp edges to avoid
damage to new battery.
- Anyway, some photos, so you can see what is going on.
- Not difficult but a tedious process. Once done, next job is easier...
- I'd rather pay $10.95 for the ebay battery that probably lasts some 5-10 years than Varta that costs some $25-$30;
also Varta dose not seem to have the connector soldered in, so you may have to use the factory wires/connector and
solder them in.
- I am very happy with the ebay battery as shown.
- NO need to re-program anything...
- That is all guys...
---
- Of course the factory battery is all corroded and kaput, glad I caught this before the acid from the battery
damages the circuit board. My circuit board is still good. At least the factory battery lasted some 18 yrs!
- Bought a 7.2 V 320mAh Ni-Mh battery on ebay for $10.95.
- Brand-new siren alarm is $250 from dealer!
- The ebay battery cross-section is triangular (not round), the connector is a perfect fit, NO need to solder
or use butt connector. Just pay attention where the RED wire is supposed to go (using the factory
connector as guide) and simply plug it in.
- The ebay battery is $10.95 vs Varta ($25-$30 or so), per @oragex, Varta is better but it
is difficult to find. Once I already cut open the factory unit, subsequent servicing is easy bc I used silicone caulk
(the stuff you use the caulk window/door at home) to seal it with zip tie to help it cure in place.
- Use utility knife to score along the groove (watch your left hand fingers to avoid cut!). It took almost 1/2h
to score through, don't go too deep bc there are 2 wires running near the surface!
- For re-assembly, use clear silicone caulk around the edges and zip tie to help it secure in place.
- Since I do NOT want to play with the factory rivets at the splash guard, I took the bumper cover off, which is
actually very easy if you watch this video below. Just pay attention to the HL connector and fog light connectors
(if you have it). If your car has the intensive HL washer, the look up youtube how to d/c connect it (basically,
gently pull the bumper cover off a bit, the lift the metal C-clip to allow the intensive nozzle to come off).
- Also, my 2004 V70 (with HL wipers) has the alarm siren directly behind the right HL assembly. Once the
right HL assembly is off, it is a piece of cake.
- Since I already de-commissioned the HL wipers (I removed the wiper arms years ago), this makes the bumper
cover removal easier.
- The siren is held by two (2) 10-mm bolts, just loosen them, NO need to remove the 10-mm bolts.
If you have an off-set 10-mm wrench, then it is easy.
- Otherwise, you can improve access by loosening the side plastic piece (two T25 screws and 10-mm bolt as shown)
and loosening the two (2) plastic 10-mm nuts in the wheel well (turn the RF tire all the way to the right,
NO need to remove the tire).
- Slide the siren unit out, use a small screwdriver to depress the small tab and disconnect the connector.
Be gentle to avoid damage to the connector.
- Cut one "leg" of the black plastic covering the battery, remove any sharp edges to avoid
damage to new battery.
- Anyway, some photos, so you can see what is going on.
- Not difficult but a tedious process. Once done, next job is easier...
- I'd rather pay $10.95 for the ebay battery that probably lasts some 5-10 years than Varta that costs some $25-$30;
also Varta dose not seem to have the connector soldered in, so you may have to use the factory wires/connector and
solder them in.
- I am very happy with the ebay battery as shown.
- NO need to re-program anything...
- That is all guys...
---
2004 V70 2.5T 100K+
2005 XC90 2.5T 110K+
2005 XC90 2.5T 110K+
-
cn90
- Posts: 8251
- Joined: 31 March 2010
- Year and Model: 2004 V70 2.5T
- Location: Omaha NE
- Has thanked: 4 times
- Been thanked: 466 times
And of course, if you run the 2 wires into engine compartment (just hide it behind the right HL assembly),
then battery swap is a snap lol!
PS: If I ever do this job again (hope not), I'd definitely :
1. Run 2 wires into engine compartment.
2. Find a small plastic juice bottle (of course clean and dry it first).
3. Drill a tiny hole in the bottle cap for the wires and seal with silicone caulk.
4. Store the new battery inside the juice bottle for protection against element.
5. Zip tie the bottle to something nearby to prevent it from moving around.
Now you can see with this setup with juice bottle, changing battery is < 1 min job lol!!!
If anyone has done this mod (relocating the battery to engine compartment), please share some photos...
then battery swap is a snap lol!
PS: If I ever do this job again (hope not), I'd definitely :
1. Run 2 wires into engine compartment.
2. Find a small plastic juice bottle (of course clean and dry it first).
3. Drill a tiny hole in the bottle cap for the wires and seal with silicone caulk.
4. Store the new battery inside the juice bottle for protection against element.
5. Zip tie the bottle to something nearby to prevent it from moving around.
Now you can see with this setup with juice bottle, changing battery is < 1 min job lol!!!
If anyone has done this mod (relocating the battery to engine compartment), please share some photos...
2004 V70 2.5T 100K+
2005 XC90 2.5T 110K+
2005 XC90 2.5T 110K+
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