Instructions w/pics when Changing Timing belt/waterpump/tens

Post by **MadeInJapan** » 09 May 2008, 23:56

I guess I wasn't clear....no need to replace the serpentine belt tensioner now (#2 in the picture...the whole piece), but do it next belt change. So, for now, 2 belts (serp. and t-bel) and the t-belt tensioner. Water pumps tend to go right before the 3rd scheduled T-belt change, but since your miles are off, changing it the next time should be perfect timing.

ollygreengiant · Post by **ollygreengiant** » 10 May 2008, 05:07

Thanks i really appreciate the guidance and following up! i owe you one

i'll put my order in tomorrow, and i will follow up with some pic's, thanks again!

Post by **MadeInJapan** » 10 May 2008, 05:52

Just check the spring in the Serp tensioner...it shouldn't be easy to "release" it....I know that eeuroparts sells the spring section to rebuild one of these but from all I've read it's a pain, so best to buy a whole one if the spring isn't tight. That said, you can regrease the old one if it's good (and at your miles I would assume it is). Many people do this when they change the Serp. belt.

Post by **kranz** » 17 May 2008, 11:24

I am happy to report that I've just successfully replaced the timing belt on my '98 Volvo V70 at 140K. I made heavy use of the info in this forum and the procedure found in Bay 13. I'd like to thank those whose time and effort went into providing all that useful info.

The step that gave me the most heartburn was getting the old belt from behind the crank pulley. I wrestled with that belt for the longest time with absolutely no progress and became quite discouraged. I finally used one of those small dental mirrors to take a peek at what was going on behind the crank pulley. The gap between the pin and the crank pulley is quite wide enough for the belt to pass through. But it is quite easy for the belt to hang up on the crank pulley especially if twisted. The orientation of the belt is most important. It is essential that the right side of the belt be addressed first with the left side remaining in its place. Earlier in my enthusiasm, I had pulled the left side out from the plastic housing before handling the right side. This was a mistake and it rendered the belt impossible to remove. So I put the left side back and proceeded with the right side. Armed with this new information, it took me about 3 minutes to work the belt into the gap and then extract the left side from the plastic housing. I put the new belt on in reverse order, doing the left side first, followed by the right side. To my surprise it slipped through the gap almost effortlessly with no persuasion required.

The belt I replaced was a Volvo branded belt that had been installed at 70K. It actually looked to be in pretty good shape with no sign of cracking or deterioration. It made me wonder how much longer it could have lasted.

ollygreengiant · Post by **ollygreengiant** » 23 May 2008, 20:17

94 850 turbo 150,000 kilometers or 93,000 miles

Hello every one just finished doing my timing belt and serpentine belt

and although the car has started which is great, i'm hearing a ticking which makes me think that i might have f-ed up

at the moment the car is situated with one wheel in the air, and has been in this position like this since yesterday, could this have something to do with oil moving to one side of the car? or is the wishful thinking? any ideas or two cents would be greatly appreciated

from the time someone responds.. i will probably have lost my mind with uncertainty

Post by **MadeInJapan** » 23 May 2008, 20:46

Did you turn the crank 2 times around clockwiseby hand before you started the engine?

ollygreengiant · Post by **ollygreengiant** » 23 May 2008, 21:02

yes sir! i did! i even did it a second time to make sure. , I took it down off the stand and started it up again, the clicking is there still, but it seems to be fading. Perhaps this is different, unrelated problem?

Post by **MadeInJapan** » 24 May 2008, 06:05

Could be...depending on how long you had her sitting this could just be until the upper part of the engine gets oil. Btw, what oil filter are you using? The Volvo or Mann filters have a lock in them that keep oil up, not allowing it to completely drain into the pan. If the clicking continues even after you have the engine running for awhile it could be the oil pickup lines. Verify by taking the oil filler cap off while it is running and see if oil is being pumped up to the top. Unless you have a bad PCV system and therefore positive crankcase pressure oil should not spew out of the filler neck.

crisleggett · Post by **crisleggett** » 26 May 2008, 21:46

Hello, I'm studying up I need to change out my TB and water pump. These instructions and photos are great. I'm still a bit uncertain about what marks are supposed to line line up with what, but once I get into it I should have a better idea. Where can I get good parts for this job fairly quick? I like to tackle it all this weekend if possible.

Thanks

Post by **MadeInJapan** » 26 May 2008, 23:30

Fastest shipping in my experience has been from eeuroparts.com and shipping is free if you buy $40 or more from them in one order.