1998 v70 GLT

[surfbug1]

Also if I feed in throttle slow enough it will run from 35 mph to 75 mph in third gear up to 4,000 RPMs without any stumble. I just can't smash the throttle to get there

[jreed]

I read that you tested the vacuum lines with WD40 to try to identify leaks and reported that you didn't find any -- that's a good start. If you haven't already done it, I would recommend a thorough hose-by-hose inspection for breaks, cracks, loose connections on every line. There are a bunch of illustrated resources available here on MVS, and this one by cn90 for a '98 S70 GLT (close or identical to your '98 V70 GLT) is among the very best:
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=63615

[surfbug1]

Ok perfect that hose diagram is nice!

I want to put in a new TCV, so I can do both today.

And inspect the cap and rotor, and see if there is a date code on the ignition wires.

And I will see if I can get a fuel pressure gauge on there....

And
visually inspect fuel pressure regulator for popped diaphram

That should keep me busy!


Thanks
Al

[surfbug1]

Here are the pics of the rotor and cap.


Also , the wires are dated 4-2010

Defe replacing the wires.


Do the cap and rotor need replaced? Are they shot?


Probably be good to replace all the stuff at the same time.

But , just to share some humor ...what do you think?

[abscate]

10 year old bougicords are fine.

Thst cap and rotor are bottom of the lake worthy. You’ve had moisture in the cap , so sort that out while replacing. Cam seal?

[454cid]

The cap and rotor look dirty, and corroded, but for the short term could probably be cleaned up. I did that on my car since I was ordering parts, and I still needed to go to work. I used a wire wheel on my Dremal tool to clean the contacts, and sprayed everything with brake cleaner, and made sure it was dry before re-assembly.

[surfbug1]

Thank you that info is helpful.

I will order new and clean up the old cap rotor stuff for temp use.


After checking the temp probe near the thermostat, I saw the connections were dirty. Put CRC contact cleaner on them reassembled everything.

Was good for a short test drive!

Longer test drive and problem was still there/returned

Next I'm going to replace the TCV and the vac hoses for the TCV.

Thoughts?

Btw higher rpms and slowing feeding in fuel makes the engine happy

If I'm going 65 and mash the throttle, it will start to drop rpm and won't pull any more, almost like the ignition system is shut off.

To recover I just let off the gass and feather back in slowly

TCV and whatever vac lines and intercooler lines I can see will be checked or replaced.

Any other ideas?

[surfbug1]

Ok I have the weekend off.

I gotta fix this, hesitation from the throttle is putting me in some bad situations while driving.

With that in mind everything seems to run fine when the engine is cold.

I'm tempted to just put in a sensor for the temperature coolant temp sensor.

But it also feels like a vacuum situation cuz when I feed throttle fast it's stumbles.

Also is there anyway I could change the title to this thread? Should I just message a moderator? The title doesn't get much detail and I need some assistance from you guys out there.

Thank you in advance!

[scot850]

Abscate is the moderator for this section, so you can ask him.

Like 454cid suggests, you can try and clean the brass contact on the pins in the distributor cap. Some fine emery paper or careful use of a small screw driver can remove the oxide (green) off of the contact faces of the pins. A very light rub along the front edge of the rotor arm will also clean that up. Just need to get then shiny don't need to go crazy.

Do yo have a plastic cap under the rotor arm? There should be one which can help reduce moisture.

Have you cleaned the engine at all? If you every do, make sure you put a plastic bag over the distributor cap and tape it up to prevent water getting into the cap.

Clean everything up inside there and check again in a week and see if it is getting oily again. If it is then you have a leaking cam seal under the distributor.

As the issue seems to be when it is warm, then I would look again at things like fuel pressure when warm, you could try the TCV and check the pipes are not rotten. A used TCV is worth a shot as they don't go bad often.

If you temp gauge is going to the 3 o'clock position then I am not sure your ECT is the issue.

The last thing is the diaphragm in the turbo valve itself. They can split with age which will reduce boost. Having said that, not entirely sure that is the problem as I would expect it to be an issue warm or cold.

Neil.

[surfbug1]

Ok so yesterday went looking at other cars. (Never selling the v70 wagon! Hahaha)

So I found bad hose.

It came of off the purple tubing, and connect to tht back of the silver valve. This is on the silver thing that is on top of near the turbo.

I'm gonna change this out along with the Turbo Control Valve aka TCV.



Would this small bent hose affect warm (cars runs great for the first 15 mins, until hot) warm hot run ability? How?

And what is this part and what does it do. Thanks!