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The classic ticking Topic is solved

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's P80 platform cars -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, including 850 R, 850 T-5R, 850 T-5, 850 GLT
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jreed
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Re: The classic ticking

Post by jreed »

Another possible source for the ticking is the fuel injectors -- at least I think that's what I am hearing ticking on my '97 855 GLT at ~230k miles. You could test this by listening to the injectors with a mechanic's stethoscope or a tube.
1997 855 GLT (Light Pressure Turbo) still going strong. Previous: 1986 240 GL rusted out in '06, 1985 Saab 900T rusted out in '95, 1975 Saab 99 rusted out in '95, 1973 Saab 99 rusted out in '94

hausmeister
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Post by hausmeister »

jsrnsis wrote: 15 Sep 2022, 11:41 To anyone reading this, the problem is back again as the weather cools, I tried using a liqui moly lifter repair additive on my most recent oil change, which didn't solve the problem. RobertDIY has a video showing that pre 96 lifters are an inferior design, I might go through with pulling the cam cover and cams and testing the lifters and buying new to replace the ones that are stuck, or spend the money on 20 new lifters despite spending too much on getting a new-to-me v70xc going. Will update this thread if I solve the problem.
Wouldn't do all that work just yet. Maybe try what MoVolvos suggested, or as I did (engine flush and mos2 additive). I had some real improvement with this. I'll do the oilpan also once I work up the courage :D
Not the end of the world if it ticks a few seconds at startup.
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MoVolvos
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Post by MoVolvos »

hausmeister wrote: 16 Sep 2022, 08:03
jsrnsis wrote: 15 Sep 2022, 11:41 To anyone reading this, the problem is back again as the weather cools, I tried using a liqui moly lifter repair additive on my most recent oil change, which didn't solve the problem. RobertDIY has a video showing that pre 96 lifters are an inferior design, I might go through with pulling the cam cover and cams and testing the lifters and buying new to replace the ones that are stuck, or spend the money on 20 new lifters despite spending too much on getting a new-to-me v70xc going. Will update this thread if I solve the problem.
Wouldn't do all that work just yet. Maybe try what MoVolvos suggested, or as I did (engine flush and mos2 additive). I had some real improvement with this. I'll do the oilpan also once I work up the courage :D
Not the end of the world if it ticks a few seconds at startup.
.

The Nissan dealership I use to take our company car for service used mos2 products. I've used the Swepco products on and off I think since the mid 90's perhaps. Ferrari and Porsche clubbers introduced me to it. My mechanic from years ago told me he tried it after I told him about it, on a Bronco II I think, and unstuck the lifters. A customer gave him the vehicle since he didn't want to spend the money on repairs and he tried every trick in the book. I use to do a flush at that shop once a year using the 714 in order not to have issues with the transmission on a 95 Plymouth Grand Voyager.

It has become cost prohibitive to use but I manage to find some cheaply this year and order 12 bottles of the 306. Just one bottle in the vehicle during oil changes. It does make a difference in the smoothness. I use to run that exclusively in the 230K plus mile 98 S70 T5. Just really quiet and silky smooth! Makes that sowing machine sound even better.

.
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hausmeister
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Post by hausmeister »

For me engine flush additive did the most, and I just used the cheapest brand I found. (Mannol)
Wouldn't focus on any special brand (just my opinion)
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Post by MoVolvos »

hausmeister wrote: 17 Sep 2022, 08:10 For me engine flush additive did the most, and I just used the cheapest brand I found. (Mannol)
Wouldn't focus on any special brand (just my opinion)
.

These days I extract oil if needed and add a quart of transmission fluid and drive it around for a couple of weeks before change. Most transmission fluid is around 20W so no harm. Definitely noticeable smoother drive after adding clean transmission fluid.

The 5.3L I purchased years ago required dumping so the current 8.0L is right but the 9.5L is the best.

(www.amazon.com/dp/B07N7XC7DM/ref=redir_ ... 7d01f975e8)

.
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Post by jsrnsis »

Thanks for the replys guys, it's probably in my best interest to try additives and cleaners before taking the cam cover off, even though it's hard to bring myself to getting rid of my new sparkly mobil1.

There's a lot more damage I can do with the cam cover off and messing with the timing belt than it's worth right now, I think I'm just overconfident from just changing the head on my new wagon.

And on the injectors, I did hope that was the cause since that injector rail does thump away when I listen with a piece of PVC pipe. When I got around to trying to replace them to stop the ticking, the early NA injectors were ridiculously expensive so I bought a set of refurbished and cleaned ones, didn't fix anything.

I noticed recently that for the first 5 or so seconds after startup and getting to idle revs, there's no ticking. It's also a bit intermittent once it gets started, cycling between a dull tapping and loud clicking, and just recently it started to continue ticking even after getting some revs. By the time the engine is warmed up and I get to work (driving gently) ~6 minutes, the ticking stops even at idle. Oil seems to get up to the top of the engine perfectly fine, there's a healthy amount sloshing around in there if I take the filler cap off.
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Post by scot850 »

If I recall the up to 98? white block engines used hydraulic lifters. These to harden and silt up with age. Add to that if the oil feed 'O' rings between the oil pan and block have not been replaced ever, you also get lower oil pressure to the head.

A few suggestions/points to ponder:

1) an oil system cleaning/flush product may help to clear some of the crud out from the lifters, but then the balance issue is will it just move the crud around?
2) An oil seal conditioner may help to improve the lifter condition after a clean.
3) If they have not been done consider replacing the oil pump seals on 'o' rings between the pan and block to increase oil pressure to the lifters
4) What oil grade are you using? If you are using say a 5W30 grade maybe try a 5W40 and see if that helps?

Neil.
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manovlov
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Post by manovlov »

I've looked to your video. And compared with this one. Seems to be the same issue :




To me (newbie advice) :
Raise the front axle, ,
Bleed the oil system and replace the filter,
Remove the oil pan and clean it,
Replace all the seals,
Reassemble, fill up with 10W40 oil (depending on the region where you live, take oil with the appropriate viscosity. I didn't invented anything, everything is described in the video.

Hope it will be useful.

Manov
1995/02 850 GLT 2.5 170 Petrol M56

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kallekula
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Post by kallekula »

I was just gonna say it could be lifter noise😬
I don’t know if you have mechanical or hydraulic lifters. If they are not too expensive, I would have bought a whole new set.
EDIT: check out Roberts youtube video about lifters. What he says around 1:00 is interesting.

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Post by manovlov »

Does it mean that you can replace lifters a simple as that ? No other operation required after having opened the block ?
1995/02 850 GLT 2.5 170 Petrol M56

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