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The classic ticking Topic is solved

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's P80 platform cars -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, including 850 R, 850 T-5R, 850 T-5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70, V70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70-XC
1997 - 2004 C70

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MoVolvos
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Re: The classic ticking

Post by MoVolvos »

manovlov wrote: 21 Sep 2022, 13:12 I've looked to your video. And compared with this one. Seems to be the same issue :




To me (newbie advice) :
Raise the front axle, ,
Bleed the oil system and replace the filter,
Remove the oil pan and clean it,
Replace all the seals,
Reassemble, fill up with 10W40 oil (depending on the region where you live, take oil with the appropriate viscosity. I didn't invented anything, everything is described in the video.

Hope it will be useful.

Manov
.
Watching the video and the O-Rings reminded me of AT-205 Seal Leak Stopper.
.
(www.amazon.com/AT-205-Seal-Leak-Stopper ... s9dHJ1ZQ==)

.
Blessings,

BKM


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2007 S60 2.5T - New Project
2003 S80 T6 Transmission DIED
2000 S70 SE Base - New Project
1998 S70 T5 Prior
1989 240 Wagon Prior

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Post by manovlov »

The thing i don't understand (that's why i learn mechanic studies) is when you open the block and get all stuff apart, how to know how to put everything back at the right place ? i mean, when you do the timing belt, you have to respect marks on the timing cover. So, pistons and crankshaft out, how do you know which piston goes where, to what place ?
1995/02 850 GLT 2.5 170 Petrol M56

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Post by abscate »

The pistons will only go in one of two orientations as the rods have to line up on the crankshaft. There is usually an arrow or marking on top of the piston so you can see the correct way.

*** there are about 100 little details like this involved with rebuilding a bottom end of an engine, which makes it
non-YouTubable (tm)

You also have to label the cylinder too,

Un, deux, trois, quatre, cinq
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Post by manovlov »

I imagine that you can't inverse a piston and you can't "mix"them when disassembling. What do these inscriptions on the top of the piston ?

Non youtubable , you say, so, how , if i started to do that job, would i be able to realize this operation unknowing these 100 details ? I would like to go further in the discover of my engine, but, it seems to be "not for newbies"...
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Post by abscate »

It’s like any area of expertise with many details. If you tear into an engine you will find many paths and problems which will be different in on every engine, there isn’t a standard set procedure to rebuild and engine. Just learning how to use a micrometer to get reproducible measurements down to 0.025mm or less is an expert skill.

As DIY we can rebuild an engine but we need to go slow, about 5x slower than an expert, and stop, ask questions along the way, post pictures, and then figure out the good answers

It’s always much faster to source a good used engine and swap it in.

For you, Mon ami, see if you can find a blown bad engine for free, get it into your shop, and do a tear down.

I don’t know the Volvo codes on pistons but there are usually marks for…

Piston weight for balancing
Piston bore size for oversize block
Arrow to guide piston direction ( piston is slightly offset from pin so it is already to be pushed down by power stroke
Date code tracking ?
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Post by manovlov »

abscate, you're a Jedi... :D

I've just picked up a abandoned engine in front of the building i work in. It's in my workshop. Your idea to find one is exactly what i'm gonna do : i will post pictures (in the right forum on MVS) and ask many questions.

Merci beaucoup abscate to share you knowledge. It's a gold mine for a guy like me.
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Post by abscate »

Here is a wierd Volvo thing

The connecting rods are 'cracked' - this is hard to translate to French - maybe pour craquer?

Instead of machining two halves of the bottom of the rod they are frozen cold and then 'shattered' into two pieces that precisely fit but have a jagged edge. If you mix up the rods you are really in for a big expense of all new connecting rods.
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Post by manovlov »

craquer, correct.
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Post by BlackBart »

abscate wrote: 22 Sep 2022, 06:57 Here is a wierd Volvo thing

The connecting rods are 'cracked' - this is hard to translate to French - maybe pour craquer?

Instead of machining two halves of the bottom of the rod they are frozen cold and then 'shattered' into two pieces that precisely fit but have a jagged edge. If you mix up the rods you are really in for a big expense of all new connecting rods.
I didn't know this! Are they put in a press to snap them right where they want it in the center of the rod bolts? Is there a weak point cast into them so they break there? Fascinating!


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Post by manovlov »

I've seen that in a (french ) lesson...
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1995/02 850 GLT 2.5 170 Petrol M56

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