2004 XC70 remove steering rack - help with final steps

enotslim · Post by **enotslim** » 27 Sep 2022, 08:28

Removing steering rack to correct corroded and leaking hydraulic lines on the rack itself. Subframe dropped, rack bolts removed, sway bar loosened on driver side for access, and rear engine mount freed top and bottom (awaiting a bit more space to remove and replace). Remaining steps are (I think):

1. free the pinch connection between the steering shaft and the rack. 10mm bolt removed. Now trying to separate the "frozen" coupling. Using PB Blaster, tapping and pry bar without any progress (so far). Suggestions? Something with a gear-puller, spreading action ? Heat?

Also, there seems to be a hollow in the rack shaft that I didn't expect. See photo - sorry for poor quality. The coupling screw fits into this type of hollow, but in a different position on the shaft. What is the meaning of this second hollow? Fitment to a different model/car? It can't be the only hollow present on this shaft.

2. free the supply/return lines where they are bracketed to the rack (apparently for stability). See photo. I didn't expect this connection, although it is referred to here: https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/2004- ... k-replace/ . How does one remove and replace this connection? Mostly concerned about replacing, as I'm sure I can remove it one way or another.

Thanks.

Post by **abscate** » 27 Sep 2022, 12:02

1. free the pinch connection between the steering shaft and the rack. 10mm bolt removed. Now trying to separate the "frozen" coupling. Using PB Blaster, tapping and pry bar without any progress (so far). Suggestions? Something with a gear-puller, spreading action ? Heat?

Come inside the car and disconnect the yoke in the dry, rust free interior under the rubber boot. Once the rack is up on the bench, the engine compartment yoke is much easier to deal with.

My line brackets surrendered to entropy so i fabbed brackets from old cooling hose and zip ties.

enotslim · Post by **enotslim** » 27 Sep 2022, 13:27

I thought that getting the rack out with the additional length would be difficult if not impossible. But I will try it. I guess the U-joint might allow sufficient flexibility to make it work.

I saw what looked like a zip tie on that fixture.

Thanks.

Post by **abscate** » 28 Sep 2022, 05:19

free the pinch connection between the steering shaft and the rack. 10mm bolt removed. Now trying to separate the "frozen" coupling. Using PB Blaster, tapping and pry bar without any progress (so far). Suggestions? Something with a gear-puller, spreading action ? Heat?

See the picture here. It’s really tough to get access on the car, which is why I recommend getting it on the bench

jkatz · Post by **jkatz** » 28 Sep 2022, 06:34

Are you 100% sure you can't replace those lines without removing the rack? I was able to do it in my V70 this summer, but of course there was no angle gear in the way. I had the rack completely loose by dropping the outer tie rod end links, removing the motor mount (I used the HF engine support bar), and I separated the steering column inside the car in the footwell. The only constraints to movement were the supply/return lines and the overall free-play space above the subframe, which was about 2" of forward play, 2" of side-to-side play, and 2" upward play. It was just enough to get a wrench under the rack and rotate those fittings 1/6th of a turn at a time.
I read here to cut the old lines off and use them as a model to form the new ones, then all I had to do was crawl under the car and put them on. Cutting the hoses off also allowed removal of the fittings with a socket rather than a crow's foot wrench so rounding the fitting was not as big a risk. Removing the 12mm fittings was also much easier than removing the supply/return line fittings, which I never was able to crack loose and pretty much sealed the deal on me doing the full hard-line replacement under the car.

enotslim · Post by **enotslim** » 29 Sep 2022, 16:40

jkatz wrote: ↑28 Sep 2022, 06:34 Are you 100% sure you can't replace those lines without removing the rack? ...

Thanks for the suggestion. I'll try this. Nothing to lose because the hydraulic line responsible for turning right leaks really, really well. Considered planning my driving to use only left hand turns but it's too limiting.

Saw this write up (viewtopic.php?p=593681&hilit=steering+hydraulic#p593681) but thought it would be as easy to remove the rack first. I was able to nudge the 19mm on the supply (or return) line with a simple wrench so I thought I could likely do the same on the 16 mm on the return (or supply) line - if it comes to that.

Post by **abscate** » 30 Sep 2022, 05:35

Can you get to the supply and return lines on P2s in car? Not happening on P80s

enotslim · Post by **enotslim** » 09 Oct 2022, 07:08

abscate wrote: ↑30 Sep 2022, 05:35 Can you get to the supply and return lines on P2s in car? Not happening on P80s

The supply/return lines were pretty accessible on my 2004 XC70 with the subframe dropped, steering rack bolts removed, rear motor mount disconnected (but still in place), tie rod end links disconnected, and the sway bar-to-rack bolts removed on the left side.

enotslim · Post by **enotslim** » 09 Oct 2022, 08:20

Question (if you don't want to read everything below):
2004 XC70 - Are there any issues with entirely removing the rear subframe bolts and dropping the subframe using jack/jack stand support? The main rear subframe bolts currently remain in place - but just barely. The subframe would remain hinged at the front end with those bolts loosened by 10-15 mm (plus jack stands just in case).

I'm asking because:

I successfully removed the hydraulic lines (after freeing the supply/return lines bracket to the subframe (easily accessible 10mm bolt) and the ziptied bracket I asked about earlier). The 12 mm nuts at the distal ends (crows foot) and the plate retaining bolt at the proximal ends (1/4 inch u-joint adapter plus short wobble extension since wobble alone wasn't enough angle) yielded very easily ~15 minutes after PB Blaster. Torx TT27 fit the latter better than standard T27 even though the bolt lacked a tamper-resistant center pin. My TT27 bit has broader wings than my T27. The 12 mm end of the long line was partially visible through a hole in the subframe. That helped. The 12 mm end of the short line could almost be viewed from the rear. Both were semi-blind removals but again, yielded easily once the tools were properly placed.

Maneuvering the lines out of the vehicle by fiddly trial and error was easier (perhaps *much* easier) because I had already cut the longer line into two pieces - see photo. Fitting new lines will likely be more difficult, and perhaps not possible without better access. Which brings me to the steering coupler.

Had to lubricate the u-joint in the past so I thought it would be worth replacing the steering coupler now. Disconnected the upper end inside the car haven't been able to free the lower end from the steering rack shaft - no big surprise. This all means I must either forgo replacing the coupler (and somehow fit new hydraulic lines in place) or remove the rack even though that may not be needed to replace the hydraulic lines. And I am seriously concerned about fitting new hydraulic lines.

At this point removing the rack would be fine to facilitate new hydraulic lines and coupler. But I do not think it will happen with the coupler in place without dropping the subframe further. So far the main rear subframe bolts remain in place - but just barely.

My primary question is - Are there any issues with removing the rear subframe bolts and dropping the subframe further. The subframe would remain hinged at the front bolts that are loosened by 10-15 mm (using jack/jack stand support, of course)?

Thanks.

Post by **abscate** » 09 Oct 2022, 10:10

Not at all. I pulled out the rears completely and got a foot or so of clearance.

You are supposed to use new bolts for the subframe and I did just that. They get heavy , heavy torque into the plastic regime.