1999 2000 Power steering supply line repair, pressure line 9485359

[FireFox31]

TL;DR: Replacing this line is the only option. Pay the $150. Repairing it is hard (requiring obscure 10 mm line and matching fittings) or impossible (high pressure hose won't hold, rusty line is weak and can't be worked with). Replacing the line is only moderately hard with a flare nut crows foot wrench head on an ratcheting wrench with an extender.

I've finally started work on Geronimo now that I own it. Its first problem is a bad power steering leak. I did a multi-point turn to pull into the garage and Geronimo painted a Jackson Pollock on the pavement.

Steering Jackson Pollock

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The leak was from a tiny hole in the power steering high pressure supply line. It's at the bracket under the radiator which has a rubber clamp holding it. I need this fixed by Monday, so there's not enough time to order the replacement part # 9485359 for $155.

Steering supply line leak

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I'd like to cut out the leaking section and replace it, flaring the ends and joining them with couplers. The line is 10 mm OD, maybe 7 mm ID. Another MVS user did this using 3/8" lines and shaving down the 10 mm diameter. McMaster-Carr has some 10 mm lines in zinc plated steel at $18 for a 3 foot length. With so much corrosion on the line, I can't see a place suitable for flaring near the radiator.

It would be easier to cut out the leaking section and cover it with 10 mm ID high pressure rubber hose, clamping each end with worm gear hose clamps. Forum search reveals that this line is subject to 1500 psi. McMaster-Carr has no rubber or plastic tubing which can support even 1/3rd of that pressure. This isn't an option.

Replacing the entire line is the best bet. Another MVS user used a crows foot extension to disconnect the 16 mm nut at the rack. I would hope someone made flare nut extensions to apply pressure evenly and not ruin the nut. Other MVS users mentioned dropping the subframe to easily access these lines.

What solutions have people here successfully used? Thanks.

[scot850]

Does abscate have a spare line? Unfortunately time is against us here from what you say. The local junkyard only has AWD cars and a 98 which has different steering pump just now up here. Like you say getting it off is a challenge as the junkyard is strict on no use of jacks to lower the front sub-frame.

I wish you luck.

How about Erie Vo-Vo?

Neil.

[abscate]

Crows foot on the 16mm hex fitting with rack installed?

Maybe on an 850min a pristine CA car but in the northeast on a V70 that is not happening in my humble experience in 2021

I do have a line from Jane Bond but would have to scramble local help to get it to you for Monday.

I would multiple oetiker clamp hydraulic hose on that line , like 4-r clamps, and then drive it gingerly , always rolling when moving wheel , no lock to lock , until you can get it to it. The PS pump can run damp for 1000 miles without harm too, in my experience

*mvs damp…..meaning ps reservoir empty but left ove fluid lubespump

[abscate]

Adding…

In this thread Dave managed to clamp a piece of hose and get a solution that seeped but didn’t Jackson Pollack.

Use oetikers and I bet you could duplicate in short order. If you could bubble the end of your cut line it might even seal better.


viewtopic.php?t=87264

[abscate]

Conjecture on the Ps. system

I’m not sure the supply line sees a constant 1500 psi. Under no load conditions shuttles the pressure back.

I wish all videos were as good as this one , 8:51 of life needed but MVS endorsed as worth it.

[FireFox31]

Edit 10/7/22 - Don't use hose over the cut line, see later post.
Thanks for the link to the repair. The solution was to get a 6" piece of 10 mm ID high pressure hose and four Oetiker clamps, cut the line at the leak and sand down surface imperfections on the line, slide both sides of the line into the hose, then use two Oetiker clamps on each end of the hose to apply uniform clamping pressure. This still allowed a slow leak, but a good temporary fix.

Flaring and replacing the line is a permanent fix using a 3/8" die. But, the above MVS user suggested that flaring the existing lines might crack the metai due to existing corrosion. Only do this if you have good metal on both sides of the cut.

cn90 recommended asking a local hydraulic line shop to make a replacement. If they won't, they might be a good local source for the odd sized line or hose you need.

*mvs damp…..meaning ps reservoir empty but left ove fluid lubespump

Please clarify this important sentence.

I've driven maybe 30 miles with no PS fluid. The brand new PS reservoir is significantly ballooned out from pressure. When I opened the reservoir, air and fluid splattered out at a pressure I've never experienced on a full tank. Is there a way to drive with no PS fluid which won't build up this pressure?

[abscate]

Just crack the cap to the reservoir a bit to let the air build up vent. I’m surprised the pump pressurizes air that well

[abscate]

I’ve driven about 1000 miles on an empty 99 power steering system without apparent damage to the pump. I put a capful of ATF into it weekly

[FireFox31]

I experienced a loud and messy failure from my attempt to repair the power steering high pressure supply line with hose and clamps.

Edit 11/10/23 - Post deleted to not spread bad information. Don't try to patch this high pressure line. Having a functional steering system is too important to mess around with. Buy the correct replacement for $150 and install it using info later in this thread.

[FireFox31]

Two other possible solutions for TEMPORARY fixes:
When you only have a slight seep in the line like I did, covering it with hose and clamping it will hold some pressure. Get about 4" of 3/8" ID cloth reinforced high pressure hose. Cut it parallel to the hose. Peel it open and slip it over the intact metal line, leaving the cut on the opposite side of the line from the leak. Use Oetiker clamps since they can be opened and slipped over the intact hose. Use a clamp on each end of the hose and one directly over the leak, applying pressure on it. Ensure that the ears, like the cut, are on the opposite side of the line from the leak. I did a much worse version of this procedure using hose with too small ID and worm gear clamps. Even that was able to hold some air pressure with no fluid in the system, but it quickly leaked fluid when tested. Better materials might work.

Edit 11/10/23 - The other idea was to flare in a new section to the line. Don't do this. If the line is rusty enough to leak, it's too weak to flare, creating a risk of failure in service. Just replace the line.