2004 XC70 remove steering rack - help with final steps

[enotslim]

Thanks. Didn't want to cause more problems than I resolved. Definitely using new stretch bolts wherever they exist including all four in the front subframe. Maybe for new subframe mounts also - especially since one "fell out and ran away" when I removed one of the rear bolts. Must be somewhere near my driveway, but so far it's mia.

[enotslim]

I dropped the rear of the front subframe as far as I can (knowing what I know). It's not enough. Steering yoke is still no where near free. I need more than 6 additional inches and even then it will be very tight.

What is the line around the yoke in the photo, please, and can it be easily and safely disconnected/reconnected?

Rear motor mount is disconnected and sitting on the workbench. Sway bar brackets and end links are disconnected. Exhaust hanger disconnected from subframe. Loosened the engine support bar until it slackened. Subframe still doesn't lower more when I lower the jack beyond its position in the photo. Something else is supporting it. Is it a motor mount from the engine to the subframe? Other mounts to the frame would then restrict the drop, right? Do I need to essentially remove the entire subframe and/or motor mounts?

I'm about ready to Sawsall the yoke. Even then it will be a tight fit to remove the rack without lowering the subframe further.

Of course, I'm pretty sure I can now install new hydraulic lines on the rack (which was the original goal) without removing the subframe. Lots of room for that. But I really would like to replace the yoke since it has caused problems in the recent past and it's "just sitting there" ready to go.

Any suggestions welcome. Are engine mounts in my immediate future?

Thanks.

[enotslim]

Still have only 6 inch drop of the rear part of the front subframe. Insufficient to remove the rack with the steering coupler frozen to the rack stem.

I've disconnected the rear and passenger side motor mounts and the exhaust bracket, entirely removed the rear mount, and loosened the bolts at the front of the front subframe. When I lower the engine using the support bar, the subframe lowers a little more. I think the only things left connecting the engine/ transmission and the subframe are the control arms. Do i need to disconnect at the ball joints? Control and were replaced recently so these bolts should be easy. I dudn't expect this and I don't want to go down a wrong path. But without more clearance I need to cut the steering couple or replace the hydraulic lines without removing the rack.

Suggestions very welcome. Thanks.

[abscate]

Have you tried a cold chisel in the slot on the coupler ? Couple of bangs to see if that breaks it free?

[enotslim]

Have you tried a cold chisel in the slot on the coupler ? Couple of bangs to see if that breaks it free?

Thanks for the suggestion. Does make sense. I did try a few modest blows with a large screw driver. No luck. But I was reluctant to hit too hard without supporting the far side for fear of damaging the shaft's seal as it enters the rack. Not sure how to do this. I'll consider it. Suggestions welcome.

[firstv70volvo]

Have you tried a cold chisel in the slot on the coupler ? Couple of bangs to see if that breaks it free?

Thanks for the suggestion. I did try a few modest blows with a large screw driver. No luck. I was reluctant to hit too hard without supporting the far side for fear of damaging the shaft's seal as it enters the rack. Would a slide hammer driving a wedge into the gap be the right tool to protect the seal? Or some other approach and/or tool? Seems like some sort of spreader could also work but access is difficult.

You might consider an air hammer or hammer drill if you can get a blunt end bit against the pinch coupler end; not to spread the pinch coupler slot but to drive the coupler off the shaft. I purchased an inexpensive air hammer a few years ago with adjustable air pressure and it's worked well for many stubborn parts. It worked well for removing and installing ball joints and loosening a very stubborn radiator fan nut (not the Volvo). I also recall reading about or seeing a video by someone using an air hammer to remove a stubborn steering shaft coupler.

[abscate]

Cold chisel is harder steel , lots of small raps, like 50. You could also warm it up with propane a bit

[enotslim]

You might consider an air hammer or hammer drill if you can get a blunt end bit against the pinch coupler end...

I like this idea but I'm not using air tools and there does not seem to be an electric equivalent to the air hammer. My impact drill delivers impacts that are too "fine" and weak for this job (I tried). Electric rotary hammers seem too large for this job. Does an electric equivalent to the air hammer exist?

[enotslim]

Success, and thank you for your suggestions. PB Blaster, patience and many cold chisel "taps" (maybe 1,000) eventually opened the coupler slot. The rack almost fell out without the coupler. Now for some new parts, some cleaned up parts, and reassembly. All stretch bolts will be new. A few (more) questions:

1. I still don't understand why the subframe did not drop further. I loosened but did not entirely disconnect the ball joints/control arms but the subframe dropped no more than ~7 inches total. I didn't think anything remained to prevent the subframe from dropping to the ground except the two front subframe bolts and the jack stands under the rear portion. Obviously something did. Must be binding related to the front bolts but I didn't find it. I just hope everything reassembles properly. I did notice that there was no clearance between what I think is the AC compressor and the subframe (see photo). This seems wrong but I'm not sure how this might be related to supporting the subframe.

2. Does thread locker on bolts work when inserted into female fittings that have not been cleaned to bare metal? Seems unlikely. Any suggestions on cleaning female fittings? Skinny wire brush on a drill and blow the metal particles out with air?

3. Some of the bolts that should be stretch bolts also had red thread locker on them. Does this make sense, or is it more likely that thread locker was used on standard bolts instead of using stretch bolts?

4. I would like to test the reassembled rack for leaks as soon as possible in the reassembly process in case I need to redo anything. Would it be safe to do this (meaning start the engine) once a new coupler is attached to the rack and steering column, the rack is in place, the subframe is bolted in place, the passenger side engine mount is reattached, and the engine support bar is removed but before the rack is bolted to the subframe and the control arms are bolted to ball joints, and with the sway bar bracket and end links and tie rods not reassembled?

Thanks again.

[abscate]

That red stuff isn’t thread locker like loctite. My working theory is its a thermal set glue that binds when you angle torque those bolts.