p0410 code

rnelson1044 · Post by **rnelson1044** » 19 Oct 2022, 13:42

i know there is a lot out there on this subject but I haven't seen anything to match the symptoms I'm having. The car will just barely move from a stop but once it gets up to 30-40 mph it runs fairly normal and will accelerate. Also, my brakes are very weak and require a heavy foot on the brake pedel to be able to stop. I can find no connection between the brake system and the secondary air pump system. I tested my pump by jumping the relay and pump runs fine. So, I'm guessing the 0410 code is from either the relay or the check valve. But what about the brakes????

Post by **scot850** » 19 Oct 2022, 14:57

They are both using vacuum? They may not be connected. The heavy pedal or having to jump on the brakes can either be a bad booster for the brakes or more normally the vacuum valve on the booster.

You can get particularly the rear calipers seizing or even the fronts. When were your flexible brake pipes last replaces or the brake fluid flushed?

The Secondary air System only works when the car first starts up until it is warm. It is to reduce the emissions from the tailpipe when the ECU richens the system initially. It then turns off when up to temp.

The way these fail are usually because the valve on the top of the manifold at the rear of the engine near the center, fails and it then allows condensation to drain down into the SAS pump and eventually it fills up and the pump rusts and seizes. I usually recommend drilling a small hole in the bottom of the pump to allow it to drain.

If the pump seizes, finding a good used one is hard to do. There used to be a guy on Ebay that rebuilt the pumps but not sure if they are still out there. Many people do a diode bypass to trick the system to think the pump is in place and working. I think abscate used to have some of those diodes if I recall correctly.

Neil.

Post by **abscate** » 19 Oct 2022, 15:07

Make sure the W or SEW button isn’t depressed, check that the up,arrow light works in the dash on key on.

We call it the “dog button “ in our house as our pups will step on it and put you into winter mode without warning.

No acceleration, then fine in 3rd and 4th gear

rnelson1044 · Post by **rnelson1044** » 21 Oct 2022, 11:44

Thanks for the suggestions. I now have a worse problem; car will not start; cranks fine but no fire. good fuel pressure; no spark. Attempted to test cam position sensor; plastic male plug from sensor disintergrated when I tried to unplug it, So new CPS is needed. Regarding 1he 0410 fault....what about the solenoid? If it's bad I may just have find one off of a wreck; the part does not seem to be available. Need to test check valve, too.

Post by **erikv11** » 21 Oct 2022, 13:39

Yes a bad solenoid could trigger a P0410.

It's so, so much easier to just get rid of SAS at this point, although you still need a working solenoid to go that route viewtopic.php?t=31536.

I'd suggest make sure you get a Bosch CPS. My CPS replacements have all but one (for my daughter's car in another state) come from the junkyard if you can find one there.

rnelson1044 · Post by **rnelson1044** » 27 Oct 2022, 15:14

More grief; Have spark, have fuel pressure and plugs are wet with fuel after cranking. Replaced cam sensor due to failure of male plug from the sensor. Checked timing belt to see if it had somehow jumped time; timing marks are properly aligned. Recently completed head gasket replacement and having the head overhauled. Car ran great for a week or two afterwards. Then I got the P0410 error. Checked SAS pump and it runs fine, but found large hose from pump to check valve disconnected at the valve. Reattached; no change. I don't know what to check next. I feel good compression when turning the crankshaft pulley but have not done a formal compression check.

Post by **scot850** » 27 Oct 2022, 19:26

SAS pump should not affect the engine running. It is just an air pump for cold starts to reduce emissions. Once the engine is warmed up it does not run.

What fuel pressure do you have? 42 psi or close to that is what you should be getting at the fuel rail Schraeder valve.

The only other issues then are failed pressure or vacuum lines and the MAF. For the MAF, disconnect the connector and see if the car then starts.

Vacuum and pressure lines need careful checking. You also need the turbo hoses to not be split. They are hard to inspect on the car.

Neil.

rnelson1044 · Post by **rnelson1044** » 29 Oct 2022, 08:32

Thanks for the suggestions. If that is a valid method of determining fuel pressure, then, with ignition on, I get about 2 psi at he schrader valve on the fuel rail using a standard tire pressure gauge. That being the case, then what should be my next step to determine cause of low pressure - fuel pressure regulator, fuel pump.....?

Post by **scot850** » 29 Oct 2022, 10:23

Did you check if the pump is working? If it is not then removing and jumping the fuel pump relay would be my first step. This current thread has all the info on that and how to jumper the relay to test if it is the issue. There is a link in my first answer which takes you to a repair and test method.

viewtopic.php?t=101095

Neil.

rnelson1044 · Post by **rnelson1044** » 29 Oct 2022, 14:45

Pump is working; I removed the FPR and placed a jumper between connector 15 and 87; fuel pump ran fine. I tried to start car with jumper in place but no start. So, can I assume that the FPR is bad?