What did you do to your Volvo today? Topic is solved

[bmdubya1198]

My cousin and I were driving his new '98 V70 back from the junkyard last week, and he absolutely roasted the tires going around a corner going back to his apartment. Those tires were shot though... but man, these cars will break loose so easily!

[turboenjoyer]

I cut a 1998 Volvo s70 ignition lock apart. In the small groove running around the lock body there is a steel ring and holding the ring in place is a tab that runs across the entire body of the lock, so once you get the end of the tab out of the way you can pull the steel ring out a little bit and cut sections off, once the ring is out the lock should come apart. once you get the lock apart and fix what's broken I used a piece of coat hanger to make a new ring, and then put Loctite on the ring to make it impossible to take apart

in this picture you can see the small groove where the coat hanger is, and the large section i cut out while following the metal tab (the end of the metal tab pokes out where the steering lock pieces live)

IMG_20221101_201100801.jpg (221.95 KiB) Viewed 404 times

[abscate]

If you go to my lock cylinder thread you will find where to drill two holes to compress that ring to pull out the lock cylinder

After all that work , you won’t be able to buy replacement tumblers for the lock, though. They are NLA from manufacturer and locksmiths won’t sell them to you.

[MrAl]

Hi Steve,

Wonder why that is, about the locksmiths.

What i did to my Volvo today was start it up after putting the fuel pump relay back in.
It started ok but ran a little rough until it ran for a few minutes, i think that was because i had not started it in over a week and lately i never go that long without starting it. After it ran for a while it seemed ok. Strange huh?
I checked the charging, 15 amps at idle, which i consider REALLY good. Charge voltage bothers me at 13.85 volts, but since the current is 15 amps i have to believe that is enough to recharge the battery after a fresh engine start and run for 5 minutes or so. I'll do some calculations later.

Oh but i found out something interesting to those into electronics.
As i mentioned in the other thread, i am drawing a schematic for the fuel pump relay, which is not just a plain relay but has a controller circuit inside also. After getting so far with the drawing, i noticed that they thought of a novel way to get the relay coil itself to deenergize quickly. This is actually the first time i ever saw this method and i've seen probably 100's of relay circuits.
One of the problems with getting a relay to deenergize quickly (so the contacts open quickly with less arcing too) is to bleed out the "volt seconds" from the coil. Volt seconds is a round about way of saying the energy, but when you say volt seconds it simplifies it because then you are dealing with units that you can apply to a design or measure when troubleshooting. If the drive circuit puts say 12 volt seconds into the coil before the current maxes out, then you have to have the circuit remove 12 volt seconds in order to get the coil to deenergize and the contacts open. This means simply that if you apply 12 volts for 1 second to get the coil up to full current, then you have to remove 12 volt seconds which means 12 volts for 1 second or 24 volts for 1/2 second or 48 volts for 1/4 second, etc.
You can see then that the faster you want it to deenergize, the higher you have to allow the back EMF to go before clamping it with a diode or zener or whatever. In the case of this relay, they use a resistor. Normally you would not really want to use a resistor because then the voltage limit is hard to predict, so normally they either clamp it to ground or +Vcc. In this design though, they used TWO diodes, one from the battery + to the coil, and one from the negative coil terminal to ground. What this does is separate the coil from the battery + line during the deenergizing period, so the voltage can go higher without damaging the drive transistor (another typical design problem). That means the voltage goes higher and so the relay contacts open quicker. Pretty interesting i think and ill have to keep that in mind for other circuits.

Anyway, i also did more on the schematic today and i am getting pretty far with it now. It appears that the ECU gives it a signal, probably +12v, and the circuit delays the response to turn on the relay coil. The delay probably isnt too long.
What i dont know yet is if the ECU turns off the signal after that allowing the circuit to take over, or it continues to supply the +12v. I think it continues to supply the +12v and if there is a problem then it probably goes to ground. There could be a 3rd state too though, if the ECU line goes "open" which means a very high impedance.
The only way i can find out i think is to bring the oscilloscope out there and check, unless anyone knows more about this ECU signal.

Good luck with your Volvos folks

[454cid]

Bought a 2nd one.....well, I bid and won. I haven't paid yet. If you read the P2 forum at all, you may have seen I was looking at a couple of P2's but ended up passing on both. I looked at a XC90, XC70, V70, Acura MDX, and several Subarus but they either sold for higher than I wanted to pay, or I had concerns about the vehicle. I ended up buying another fwd P80. It's a 99 S70 turbo with some front end damage. I had wanted a non-P80 AWD, for the winter, but a FWD P80 will do.

I'm not crazy about driving a vehicle that's cracked up, but I don't want to run my 850 in the salt this winter.

It'll be my first turbo of any make.

[bmdubya1198]

You'll enjoy it! Pretty much anything with a turbo is fun.

[Sveedy]

^ Yep. You can be having the worst day ever, but just feeling the pull of the turbo, especially going up a somewhat windy road, will put a grin on your face. Happy Happy ! However some similarities develop over time between that, and say Cocaine and Heroin.

[volvolugnut]

Yes, Boost is a real kick!
volvolugnut

[duckhunt]

Must...not..read about fun Turbos! I got my 99 v70 NA as a 'simple' car to get me about and I love it. I have owned all sorts in the past including an S13 (turbo) and E39 M5. I am attempting to be sensible and not get drawn in to speed and Turbos haha. Perhaps one day again.

I have been fairly productive recently, mileage at 180k. It was little jobs that together have made the car feel much better -

1. Changed rear shocks, mounts and springs using sachs.

2. Greased all pads and clips to stop squeaking.

3. Greased boot (tailgate) struts, I fitted these new last year but the supplied lube was too little and the boot opening was very loud creaking. Now smooth and silent. Note that lubing the shafts didn’t do much, they needed removing and the ball joints greasing.

4. Successfully cleaned the electric window control panel with contact cleaner and a paint brush. It was very mucky and only the drivers window worked, with the rears getting stuck down and not up! It took two attempts but now all 4 work well up and down.

5. Also cleaned the key fob. It took 10+ presses at close range so I just used key in door. But now after contact cleaner it works well as it should from range.

6. Did the electrical tape fix on the rear seat brackets to stop squeaking.

7. Adjusted new handbrake shoes for good operation. These were mintex, I was prepared to swap them with genuine after reading up on here, however after ‘bedding in’ and further adjustment they work as they should on steep inclines.

8. Gave the interior a thorough hoover and a meguiars aircon bomb things.

9. No roof rails for me, but I had a bad leak whenever it rained above my drivers door. I removed the roof trim strips and sure enough the factory seals over the rail bolt holes had seen its day, used some sealant and adhesive pads to plug up each hole. Just as well as it hasn't stopped raining all week. (Devon, UK) I would like to add rails if I find a car breaking (parting out) near me.

10. Fixed rear wiper, it wasn't contacting the centre of the window, I removed the arm, and thoroughly cleaned and oiled the spring, many insects crawled out during the clean. it now holds firmly against the glass.

11. Gave an Oil service, good to see the last Oil at ~5k ago was still fairly golden-ish. But when I got the car a couple years ago it was pretty sludgy. (PCV has been serviced since) So I want to keep it regular.

12. Steering wheel was squeaking, just a spray of silicon lube to the rubber of where the shaft meets the bulkhead sorted that.

So all in all small jobs except the suspension, but even that was fairly straightforward. It has made the car feel so much better to use, it is very odd how smooth it drives, with no creaks or squeaks, and all electrics work as they should!

Thanks!

[manovlov]

I cut a 1998 Volvo s70 ignition lock apart. In the small groove running around the lock body there is a steel ring and holding the ring in place is a tab that runs across the entire body of the lock, so once you get the end of the tab out of the way you can pull the steel ring out a little bit and cut sections off, once the ring is out the lock should come apart. once you get the lock apart and fix what's broken I used a piece of coat hanger to make a new ring, and then put Loctite on the ring to make it impossible to take apart

in this picture you can see the small groove where the coat hanger is, and the large section i cut out while following the metal tab (the end of the metal tab pokes out where the steering lock pieces live)
IMG_20221101_201100801.jpg

I don't understand the goal of this work. Could you explain me what you are expecting ? As a newbie, this seems a bit weird...