How to go faster, stop quicker, and turn harder. Chips, exhaust, larger turbos, bigger/slotted/drilled rotors, high performance brake pads, manual boost controllers, performance shocks/struts/springs, airbox mods and more! Also discussion on HID and Xenon lights, aftermarket foglights and other exterior lighting.
Well I pretty much got this thing wrapped up. It took a bit more time than I thought, but to be fair I only worked on it a couple of hours at a time. Still, the directions say " 4 - 6 hours ", and I'd figure on the 6.
This is with a trunk mounted system. It might be quicker if one is using the windshield washer tank instead. I ended up routing the wires under the drivers side door sill / carpet, and the high temp hose along side the fuel lines, back to the trunk. The big issue with a trunk mounted system is the potential for siphoning when the system is off, if the tank is mounted higher than the injector nozzle. The manufacture suggests an anti-siphon solenoid, but I'm not sure if it's needed in this case.
I measured down from my shop ceiling to where the injector would be, and then made sure that the fluid level in the tank would be lower than that. Got it to where there is a 1" - 1 1/2" difference, so no siphoning as I see it. Plus there is a small check valve in the system before the nozzle.
In the trunk, I installed a piece of 1/4" plywood held in place with an aluminum strap screwed to the inner metal work. Then screwed the tank and pump to that through the trunk liner. Pump is mounted lower than tank.
The relay / main fuse I put on one side of the airbox, and the boost switch on the other.
I installed the two indicator lights for the system in my pillar pod.
Biggest pain was attaching the injector nozzle to the inlet charge pipe. The pipe itself is too thin to mount the nozzle to, so I figured I'd create a bung out of plastic epoxy. As you can see in one pic, it came out looking great, but failed miserably. Broke clean off the pipe while threading on the nozzle. Next try was the old stand by, JB Weld. It actually worked, but I have since researched a bit, and it really shouldn't. That pipe is polypropylene, and glues just don't like sticking to it.
So I came up, a little late, with the idea of a metal saddle to mount the injector nozzle to. I used a piece of scrap metal, beat it into a slight radius to match the inlet pipe, and then cut a small piece of old tire inter-tube ( yes I keep crap like that ) to make a seal. Two hose clamps with some more rubber cushioning, and that should do it.
I took the car out for a quick test drive - yes it sprays, and it got going, but I have to download the new tune from Aaron tomorrow to really appreciate it. He has it set up so that I can switch back and forth from my base tune to the water / methanol tune on the fly, so to speak, so that will be neat.
Here are a few pics.
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Try to learn life's bad lessons vicariously through others.
Little side note;
A friend of mine, who is a bit of a airplane nut, told me that the RAF had methanol injection installed on their Rolls Royce Merlin engines during WW2 in order to give them a boost when needed. Not so good on the engines, as it was straight meth, but what ever it took was all that mattered.
Try to learn life's bad lessons vicariously through others.
Well what a difference a tune can make. When everything is engaged, you'd think there was a V8 under the hood ! Just takes off !
I was on the highway doing about 50, went WOT, looked at the air/fuel and spray light, and back to speedo - well into three digits that quick.
I can safely say that I don't need it to go any faster than this. So now I need to see how long a tank of " juice " will last. Obviously depends on how often the system kicks on, which depends on how often I hit the fun peddle. But the main goal was achieved; preventing knock at WOT.
Many thanks to Aaron @ Vast.
Try to learn life's bad lessons vicariously through others.