Tailgate Strut replacement notes '97 850 GLT

bullshark · Post by **bullshark** » 18 Oct 2006, 11:53

The first real symptom I noted was last winter. On really cold days (50 F here in Fort Lauderdale 8) ), the tailgate would not stay up on it's own.

The good news: Replacing the tailgate struts is a piece of cake. Th whole job took less than 15 minutes.

The only tools you need are:

a large flat blade screwdriver
a small flat blade screwdriver,
a T-25 Torx

If you don't have Torx bits, here is the best deal I know of for all the Torx bits you need: Lisle 12 pc. set from Sears

I hate and fear dealing with interior trim. There's always some snafu or hidden clasp that's invisible until you break it. Not so with job, its so easy that it seems almost like the Volvo engineers made it easy on purpose (seriously tongue in cheek).

Once again I followed the helpful advice of Rich Kelley found here at volvospeed.com.

First is removing the screw by the coat hanger tab.

Next is removing the speaker grills. You can see two slots where you slide in a tool and gently pry them open. They have fixed tabs on the window edge that actlike hinges. They open like doors. Here is a picture of the cover (I'm holding it upside dowm to show the tabs)

Here's how it fits:

Here is how it snaps shut. Note the two friction snaps; they are right in line with the visible slots for prying open.

Getting the headliner side panels off is the only tricky bit and it's not really very hard. The part that you want to pry loose first is closest to the window. Once again there are user friendly friction buttons that will come loose for you with just a little pressure. Put your hands in the speaker hole and gently pull them free. Be careful to just get them loose. There are unfriendly breakable guide pins on the edge near the tailgate opening. There are three of them anchored here, like this (the black tabs along the window):

Now you have to get the panel loose at the opening. With the above already loose, gently work the panel inward to free the three black anchors you can see here. Take care not to break the guide pin.

Now you can take the panel down just the way Rich says in Bay 13. It is held up by three sets of three friction tabs. Just be patient and gentle and everything should come down easily.

When you disconnect the strut, the tailgate will fall, so be ready.

The struts just pry off with a screwdriver and snap back on. They are held in place by captive spring clips and look like this:

Putting the new strut back on requires no more than finger pressure to snap it on.

Now that I've done it, I'm sorry I waited so long. I forgot the fingertip ease that lifted the tailgate when the car was new and it's probably five years overdue.

Post by **billofdurham** » 18 Oct 2006, 12:08

To prevent the tailgate falling when you disconnect the strut, put a suitable length of 2x1 timber between the tailgate and the ground on the side where you are working. I have seen fitters using broom handles.

Bill.

Post by **mwy** » 20 Jan 2007, 22:49

Thanks for these great directions-everything worked out perfectly today when I replaced mine.

Matt

Post by **MadeInJapan** » 21 Jan 2007, 08:15

Thanks a ton! I'll put this in the database.

bobsnow100 · Post by **bobsnow100** » 23 Jan 2007, 19:33

Just changed mine out this afternoon. I did have a problem with one side. The shock was about 1/2" longer than in between the ball mounts. I was trying to pry it for about 15 minutes and didn't get anywhere. Finally I loosened the 3 bolts on the hinge without removing them all the way and then I was able to push the hinge back enough to get the other ball socket in and then tighened the hinge back up.
Another tip, instead of using a 2x4, I used my long telescopic snow brush.It is the kind that is a 2 piece with a part in the middle you turn to expand it to pull the brush out. I was able to adjust it tight against the tailgate and floor,it took 2 seconds

lizo · Post by **lizo** » 26 Jan 2007, 14:55

I would advise buying the OEM (more expensive) struts for your tailgate. The cheaper, non-OEM ones I got off ebay were a real pain to install. Not only are a little too long so that you have to struggle to pop them on, but they have the most annoying ring clips on each end that are NOT on the original struts. I had to struggle for over an hour to get 3 of the ring clips on and I've been trying for the last hour to get the last one on. One of the problems is that the holes for the clips are oriented in the most inconvenient tight places. I'm not even sure I will be able to get the last one on. Take a look at these similar posts:

https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/chat/p ... c&start=26

Just save yourself some time and don't get the ones with the ring clips.

bobsnow100 · Post by **bobsnow100** » 26 Jan 2007, 19:55

I just mentioned how I was able to get the longer one on, just loosen the hinge and you can push it out enough to pop the strut on. Just loosen the 3 - 12mm bolts ,don't take them out all the way and then once the strut is on,tighten up the hinge again.

thomlep · Post by **thomlep** » 26 Nov 2007, 19:31

I just completed this tailgate strut repair on my '95 850 T Wagon (120K miles). Piece of cake. I got the struts from fcpgroton on ebay (seller id: foreigncarpartsonline ) for about $40/pair. Saved many many $ compared to dealer. The part number is 250055279738 .

Here's a photo of one whole strut.

danieltyack · Post by **danieltyack** » 19 Jan 2008, 11:54

Thanks for the advice guys, I was trying to figure out mine and was thinking I needed a special tool. I found this site and my questions were answered! I just bought a 99 V70 for the wife so I'm going to have to bookmark this forum

http://www.smokenspirits.com

Post by **Wagonizer** » 15 Jun 2008, 22:40

I did this over the weekend replacing the struts with what seemed to be the non-OEM ones (with the ring clips) from FCP in all of 10 minutes. I wanted to add a couple hints to this thread for anyone doing this in the future. This might be common sense but:

-It seems like the ring clips could be optional as they seem to pop on pretty well.

-With the tailgate open and propped, If you remove the inner (non-door) strut mounts, which are attached with two 12mm bolts , its super duper easy to get the struts on and off. When re-installing, pop the bracket on the new strut and then then bolt into place. If for some masochistic reason you are adverse to removing the brackets make sure you don't pop the end of the strut into the window.