Steering rack input shaft seal. Am I crazy?

Post by **DonnVa** » 14 Dec 2021, 06:07

Check this out…

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Input-shaft-se ... 632-2357-0

The gear taps out of the housing bearing fairly easily, but that is as far as I went with the old one after I replaced it w/ the donor cap. It taps back in just as easy. There is a shaft bearing then the seal in the top. I don’t have a bearing puller kit, so I didn’t do anymore, but after reading this guys notes you may want to ask him what kind of bearing puller you will need to get that out. If you want, I can pull my old cap out of a box and take the gear out and post some picks so you can see what I’m talking about.

Post by **br0dy519** » 19 Dec 2021, 20:02

Nicely done finding a supplier for that seal! I'm messaging him now. Check this out, looks kind of crazy but I love the theory behind the below video (plug up return line, turn engine on, pump blows the seal right out the top!), wish we could use this method but it looks like the shaft is way too big for us to reseat the seal correctly with it still on the car. The saga continues, will update if I continue on this insane journey

Post by **abscate** » 19 Jun 2022, 04:02

Donn, thanks again for this great bit of new knowledge, apologies for delay in awarding you Contributing Ststus. we’ve added 1000 points to your MVS loyalty account

Post by **DonnVa** » 19 Jun 2022, 06:05

Thanks, I’m still happy about that fix. Over a year later and the rack still doesn’t leak.

weste46 · Post by **weste46** » 17 Nov 2022, 09:36

I have this same leak! I'm about to go at it. I was thinking I'd need a whole new rack, but stumbled upon this post. Yay!
Could you tell me how those small lines (that are not connected to the pump, but must transfer fluid locally for the rack) come off?
I'm hoping I can somehow source the gasket, I don't want to have to pull that part at a yard...

Thank you!

Post by **DonnVa** » 17 Nov 2022, 16:58

They slide into the holes and have O rings. A plate hooks around raised lips and when the plate is secured with the one bolt or screw (I can’t remember) it pushes the fittings in tight. Here’s a picture of what it looks like w/o the fittings and plate.

Edit ** I went back and looked at my thread and I already had a picture posted of the cap. Anyway, you get the picture. Lol The job is not hard, but it is tedious and will probably get you cussing a little. Make sure you have some swivels and go through the hole in the firewall whenever you can.

Post by **br0dy519** » 17 Nov 2022, 18:48

Those look like the push-in lines. There’s a C bracket around them with a torx bolt in it. Undo that then simply pull out the lines. I would replace the o-rings.

dikidera · Post by **dikidera** » 18 Nov 2022, 13:08

Considering I have a leaking rack just at that part there, I think this may be my fix. Unfortunately, no one here will sell me anything but a full used rack.

Post by **br0dy519** » 19 Nov 2022, 06:27

That ebay supplier ships worldwide.

weste46 · Post by **weste46** » 25 Nov 2022, 18:41

Well, night two here. First night I removed, took me a couple hours. Putting everything back together has been a challenge. I suggest future readers to drop your subframe. I really wish I went that route. Now I'm too stubborn to do it.

I brought the steering rack "tower" in to a steering rack shop, they changed the seal and bearing in it. Then I bought a pack of assorted o-rings to change the 4 that I removed. I cut a 19mm wrench down to about 3 inches so I could tighten the one pressure hose. I just have to put the plate on to hold the smaller lines, and tighten the bolt at the column and I'm finally done. My headlamp died, so I'm finished for the night.

already spent like 3 hours on it today. Glad I have a heated garage!

Steering rack input shaft seal. Am I crazy?

Re: Steering rack input shaft seal. Am I crazy?