1999 V70XC - Connecting Rod Bolt Reuse?

rrres · Post by **rrres** » 04 Dec 2022, 10:49

Hi,

1999 V70XC

Can I reuse connecting rod bolts? When I did a re-ring on my Corolla , I installed new head bolts but reused the connecting rod bolts. Many miles later and It doesn't seem to be a problem...but I don't know about Volvos.

I know that a re-ring job is not a recommended procedure with the engine in the car. I'd like to try (could end up being a disaster, we'll see. Worst case scenario, I end up pulling the engine) The car has a lot of blowby.

If the bolts can't be reused, then I'll have to get new ones but the different websites are giving me different part numbers. FCPEuro says that 9497858 will fit. Skandix, IPD, and my local dealer's website says that it wont fit. They also don't show the correct bolts for my car. What is the correct part number or where else can I confirm the part number for the connecting rod bolts? Thanks.

Post by **abscate** » 04 Dec 2022, 12:34

I would order those by engine number to make sure you get the right ones

Alldata reports they are not reused

Install the end cap. Check that markings correspond. On late
types of connecting rods the mating surface between the cap
and the connecting rod are not machined. It is aligned through
a dedicated fracture surface.
Earlier types have serrated surfaces that only align one way.
Caution! If the cap is turned the wrong way and tightened, the structure
of the fracture surface will be damaged and the connecting rod
must then be discarded.

Note! Blow the fracture surfaces of the connecting rod and end
cap dean using compressed air before installing the cap.
Lubricate and install the new screws
Tighten in two stages
1 20 Nm
2 Angle-tighten 90°
Check that the connecting rod can be moved laterally
The crankshaft must not be rotated before the rod cap has been tightened

Post by **Goupil** » 04 Dec 2022, 12:47

Using VIDA with my 98 V70 B5254T vin, it shows a break on engine serial number

Thread seems a bit different and the newer bolt is lighter according to Skandix listings
https://www.skandix.de/en/spare-parts/e ... t/1022156/
https://www.skandix.de/en/spare-parts/e ... t/1021190/

rrres · Post by **rrres** » 04 Dec 2022, 19:49

Thanks!

After scrubbing the gunk over the engine stamp, I was able to read B5254T with the serial of 1732115. I'm 90% confident that the correct part number is the 9125471 posted above in the Skandix website. Going to Skandix and entering the car's VIN also gave the part number 9125471, which is good because the other part number is discontinued. The only thing that is still throwing me off is that my local dealer's website says that that one doesn't fit my vehicle. I'm going to order it and once I remove the existing bolts, I'll compare before installing.

If I have time tomorrow, I should have the head off by then. The car consumes a little bit of coolant so I'll send the head to get pressure tested. While the head is in the shop, I'm hoping to remove the oil sump and push the pistons out.

rrres · Post by **rrres** » 12 Dec 2022, 18:16

I was able to remove the rod bolts and push the pistons out with only one panic attack, when piston #1 would not come out because the connecting rod was hitting the block. Rookie mistake. The piston will come out fine if it's at top dead center....but if the piston is within about 3 to10 degrees BTDC, then the bottom, wide portion of the connecting rod will hit the bottom of the cylinder and the piston will not come out.

They look like the 9125471 pictured in the Skandix website. I guess I could weigh a bolt also. I ordered a set from the local dealer and will be getting them tomorrow.

: IMG_0803.JPG (203.37 KiB) Viewed 1395 times

I see a little bit of bearing wear

: IMG_0806.JPG (372.48 KiB) Viewed 1391 times

Thanks again for the help!

Post by **scot850** » 12 Dec 2022, 18:32

While you have the oil pan off, you should take the opportunity to clean the PCV drain down to the oil pan (if you have not already done so).

Neil.

rrres · Post by **rrres** » 12 Dec 2022, 23:58

scot850 wrote: ↑12 Dec 2022, 18:32 While you have the oil pan off, you should take the opportunity to clean the PCV drain down to the oil pan (if you have not already done so).

Neil.

Thanks...I'll do that. I once ran an electrical wire from the outside of the PCV drain when I did the PCV system, but I don't think it did much because of the 90 degree angle at the entry. Now that I have a straight shot into the PCV drain, I agree that it would be worth it to do a proper cleaning on that drain.

Post by **kallekula** » 13 Dec 2022, 05:28

Be careful popping the pistons out. I managed to drop one on the garage floor once during the process of replacing the rings and it dented the upper edge of the piston. Used a file and some very fine sand paper to smooth it out.

rrres · Post by **rrres** » 14 Dec 2022, 18:59

abscate wrote: ↑04 Dec 2022, 12:34 I would order those by engine number to make sure you get the right ones

Alldata reports they are not reused

Install the end cap. Check that markings correspond. On late
types of connecting rods the mating surface between the cap
and the connecting rod are not machined. It is aligned through
a dedicated fracture surface.
Earlier types have serrated surfaces that only align one way.
Caution! If the cap is turned the wrong way and tightened, the structure
of the fracture surface will be damaged and the connecting rod
must then be discarded.

Note! Blow the fracture surfaces of the connecting rod and end
cap dean using compressed air before installing the cap.
Lubricate and install the new screws
Tighten in two stages
1 20 Nm
2 Angle-tighten 90°
Check that the connecting rod can be moved laterally
The crankshaft must not be rotated before the rod cap has been tightened

These instructions were perfect.

To close the chapter...pistons installed and new rod bolts bolted. I had the serrated type of mating surfaces. The fractured type sounds like there's plenty of room for making major mistakes. The serrated type do only go one way. Out of curiosity, I tried to put a cap the wrong way and the cap ends up being offset and the bolt will not go in (unless the bolt is inserted and started before the mating surfaces meet). I installed new bearings, used assembly lube, bolts torqued, and the connecting rods were moving laterally. When it was all assembled, I was also able to turn the crank pulley by hand...

I inspected the PCV drain tube and it was already clear.

Thanks again!!

Clean bolts.

: IMG_0825.JPG (394.76 KiB) Viewed 1303 times

rrres · Post by **rrres** » 03 Jan 2025, 21:16

Just want to report that 2 years later, the V70XC is running well...The engine at least...I have a separate transmission problem now.

After doing a head job, oil sump drop, and re-ring job at the same time, the engine no longer drinks coolant and oil. No more hard starts in the morning or after the engine is warm and compression is good on all cylinders. I can make a post about the process, if anyone is interested. Unfortunately, I now have a new problem and that is reverse is slipping. It looks like I have to pull the transmission.