Can you gap your own Spark Plugs? 1998 v70 non turbo FWD

[MrAl]

I have found loose plugs before on Volvos and other brands. I assumed I was the installer and that I did get them tight enough.
volvolugnut

Are you saying that you installed plugs and got them tight, then later found them to be loose?

Never saw this with any of my other cars from the past.

[abscate]

Torque on plugs is 30Nm , about 20 ft lbs

Run them down until they contact and tighten, then, with a 12 inch long wrench handle, tighten in between wrist muscle and elbow muscle strength. This will be less than a 1/4 turn after contact of the gasket on the head

You can also field check them with the method of Abby (tm)..

[MrAl]

Torque on plugs is 30Nm , about 20 ft lbs

Run them down until they contact and tighten, then, with a 12 inch long wrench handle, tighten in between wrist muscle and elbow muscle strength. This will be less than a 1/4 turn after contact of the gasket on the head

You can also field check them with the method of Abby (tm)..

Hi,

Sorry, dont know the method of Abby.

But here are some pics of the wrench that broke trying to get the spark plug cover bolts out. There are 6 bolts on this car and 5 were difficult to get out but that last one, the 6th one, which was the last one i tried to loosen, i was beginning to think would never come out without drilling or grinding or something and i didnt have those tools with me at the time. The wrench as actually a T handle for the T30 bit (see pics) and after it broke i was lucky i brought out my adjustable crescent wrench. Adjusting to just 1/4 inch, it had to be adjusted tight in order to prevent rounding around the corners of the T30 bit hex shank. After that it did loosen then i was able to use my regular hand screwdriver type bit tool which lucky i brought that out with me too.

The wrench isnt an expensive wrench, but i was surprised the metal could break in that way. See pics.
The first pic is the tool itself, the last pic is the best showing the break from the socket end of the tool.

[kallekula]

I’ve lost count on how many shitty tools that has broken off in my hand. I only buy quality brand hand tools ever since I understood how much shitty crap that comes out of China. They try to save money on exactly everything so they can sell cheap. I had a scooter once made in China. I probably spent more time repairing it than driving it. Every single component on it was manufactured using inferior materials.

[volvolugnut]

I have found loose plugs before on Volvos and other brands. I assumed I was the installer and that I did get them tight enough.
volvolugnut

Are you saying that you installed plugs and got them tight, then later found them to be loose?

Never saw this with any of my other cars from the past.

Yes, That is what I believe happened. But I do not use a torque wrench on plugs and may not have gotten used plugs tight enough if they had some gunk on the threads. I often check plugs for gap and color when doing other maintenance.
volvolugnut

[454cid]

I have that same 1/4" drive T-handle. It's over 30 years old.

[scot850]

In the way distant past, I fitted spark plugs the Abscate way. Never had an issue, but then those older cars had steel heads and therefore the materials were the same. Finger tight and then a quick 1/4 turn approx. With the advent of aluminum and my ability to shear bolts by over tightening or stripping threads, I bought a torque wrench and now do as per the book. Well mostly. Lubing the threads does make a difference to the torque value, but like wheel bolts/nuts, it is not enough to cause damage. The lube on cars like my Toyota which only calls for a plug change every 120,000 miles is just plain scary. I just left that to the dealer. 18 years old and the plugs had never been out!

I have spent an hour trying to get a stubborn plug out an aluminum head of a Volvo. Turn a small amount, then spray WD40 down the tube. Tighten again and repeat every 1/4 turn for over an hour! It was fine but that is plain nuts!

I have broken maybe 3 x 1/2" breaker bars. Snapped the heads right off them. Mostly trying to undo or tighten the front hub nuts on -98 P80's or removing lug bolts fitted by Trolls. I invested in an impact wrench and a 3/4" hub nut socket and breaker bar. Then decided it was easier to buy a 99- P80!!

As to the spark plug gap setting. A pair of pliers to open the gap using the side of the electrode metal and closing the gap by tapping the metal on a piece of hard wood gently. Scary but true and has worked for me for over 50 years! Can't say I am quite as comfortable with the newer style plugs. Way to brittle. And as for the multi electrode ones...........Eek!

Neil.

[850oldschool]

Anti seize isn't just for spark plugs or oxygen sensors. I put it on every bolt that screws into aluminum under the hood, such as the spark plug cover retaining screws.

[MrAl]

In the way distant past, I fitted spark plugs the Abscate way. Never had an issue, but then those older cars had steel heads and therefore the materials were the same. Finger tight and then a quick 1/4 turn approx. With the advent of aluminum and my ability to shear bolts by over tightening or stripping threads, I bought a torque wrench and now do as per the book. Well mostly. Lubing the threads does make a difference to the torque value, but like wheel bolts/nuts, it is not enough to cause damage. The lube on cars like my Toyota which only calls for a plug change every 120,000 miles is just plain scary. I just left that to the dealer. 18 years old and the plugs had never been out!

I have spent an hour trying to get a stubborn plug out an aluminum head of a Volvo. Turn a small amount, then spray WD40 down the tube. Tighten again and repeat every 1/4 turn for over an hour! It was fine but that is plain nuts!

I have broken maybe 3 x 1/2" breaker bars. Snapped the heads right off them. Mostly trying to undo or tighten the front hub nuts on -98 P80's or removing lug bolts fitted by Trolls. I invested in an impact wrench and a 3/4" hub nut socket and breaker bar. Then decided it was easier to buy a 99- P80!!

As to the spark plug gap setting. A pair of pliers to open the gap using the side of the electrode metal and closing the gap by tapping the metal on a piece of hard wood gently. Scary but true and has worked for me for over 50 years! Can't say I am quite as comfortable with the newer style plugs. Way to brittle. And as for the multi electrode ones...........Eek!

Neil.

Oh yes i have long nosey pliers, didnt think of that, Thanks.

[MrAl]

Anti seize isn't just for spark plugs or oxygen sensors. I put it on every bolt that screws into aluminum under the hood, such as the spark plug cover retaining screws.

I did too, little on each plug, and a little on each of the bolts that hold the cover on. The bolts were super tight when i went to remove then so i figured they should have some anti seize too.