What did you do to your Volvo today? Topic is solved

[454cid]

I have never found those clamps glued to the drain outlets on any P80 I have worked on. They can get 'bonded' to the plastic if not disturbed for a long time. Try spraying with silicon lube and rotate as you release the tension.

No.... then I have to reach way down and fish it out.

I always find the one on the driver's side slides down behind the brake booster and is a devil to get back up the pipe.

I haven't removed that side on the S70, but I don't' think I've done it on the 850 either.

Tonight at the gas station, the attendant is staring at my car, and finally asks.... "Wasn't your car gold? I could swear it was gold." That's when I admitted to having 2 of them

[brunocerous]

I went to start up the T5 this morning and got a bunch of crank, no-start results. Then, it was start, sputter and stall.

Moved to Blue Steel, and the same thing happened but finally starting after the fifth try or so. It was about 27 degrees F.

[foggydogg]

I went to a junkyard to carefully extract a rear quarter panel window to fix the one I
Turns out, that sad V70 had a good TYC headlight. I told the guy I'd buy both headlights and both turn signals. When I go back tomorrow to finish the window extraction, I hope to get those lights and more parts for cheap from these two V70s before they go to scrap. And the one I was pulling from is green like mine.

It does look like they're getting ready to crush that one for weight; kind of a shame, looks like it was pretty straight before demolition started.
If the engine is still in it, check the date code/label on the throttle module, and +1 with the Doctor on the roof rails ( if the weather isn't too snotty .) Torx and a small screw driver. The trim pieces can be kind of brittle, but they are part of the package.

[Sveedy]

I went to start up the T5 this morning and got a bunch of crank, no-start results. Then, it was start, sputter and stall.

Moved to Blue Steel, and the same thing happened but finally starting after the fifth try or so. It was about 27 degrees F.

( I meant to hit " quote " not Thanks. )
So are you buying your gas at the same place ? That's the only thing I can think of that would affect both cars. 27* is nothing.

[scot850]

Hey foggy, did you mention that one of the cars was green? I think Chuck W was looking for a front LH fender in 421 code green. I don't see any update on his request saying he got one. How is the one on that car?

viewtopic.php?t=99888&start=20

Neil.

[brunocerous]

Today I changed the oil (5w30 synthetic) and drained and filled the ATF. Unfortunately, the container I was using to catch the waste oil sprung a leak. Now there’s kitty litter on the driveway.

Oddly, the radiator overflow tank cap kept sputtering for a good 30-45 minutes after I’d shut off the car. It’s a Gates cap and says 75 kPa (edit: confirmed it was 75 kPa). Do I need a different cap?

I went to start up the T5 this morning and got a bunch of crank, no-start results. Then, it was start, sputter and stall.

Moved to Blue Steel, and the same thing happened but finally starting after the fifth try or so. It was about 27 degrees F.

( I meant to hit " quote " not Thanks. )
So are you buying your gas at the same place ? That's the only thing I can think of that would affect both cars. 27* is nothing.

I always get 93 octane at Costco, although I haven’t driven the T5 much in the past several months. When I’ve started it, I’ve never had a problem. Weird.

[foggydogg]

Oddly, the radiator overflow tank cap kept sputtering for a good 30-45 minutes after I’d shut off the car. It’s a Gates cap and says 75 kpi, if I recall correctly. Do I need a different cap?

I went to start up the T5 this morning and got a bunch of crank, no-start results. Then, it was start, sputter and stall.

Moved to Blue Steel, and the same thing happened but finally starting after the fifth try or so. It was about 27 degrees F.

I always get 93 octane at Costco, although I haven’t driven the T5 much in the past several months. When I’ve started it, I’ve never had a problem. Weird.

If you haven't driven the car for a while, you could have an ethanol issue, made worse by some condensation and the cold snap.
Depending on the age of the coolant cap, it could be the rubber gasket has given up. I'm not a big Gates fan.
It's not unusual for the system pressure to take a while to calm down, but sputtering shouldn't happen unless there's some seepage.

[Chuck W]

Hey foggy, did you mention that one of the cars was green? I think Chuck W was looking for a front LH fender in 421 code green. I don't see any update on his request saying he got one. How is the one on that car?

viewtopic.php?t=99888&start=20

Neil.

I think that was FireFox that was at the yard.

I have not gotten a fender yet.

[FireFox31]

It does look like they're getting ready to crush that one for weight; kind of a shame, looks like it was pretty straight before demolition started.
If the engine is still in it, check the date code/label on the throttle module

The engine and rack were already removed, thankfully. The power steering fluid tank looked dry but who knows how long it had been sitting empty. The steering rack universal joint was cut in half or else I would have taken it. I got one nice aftermarket headlight and turn signal (and a worn OEM light and signal). I overpaid because I was so focused on removing parts that I forgot to prepare for the price haggling.

Do you recommend pulling ETMs when possible? What does the date code and label tell you?

[abscate]

If they are cheap they are always worthwhile as cores for Xmodex rebuilds.

If they are yellow label they are usually good as the originals last 150k miles, so usually the yellow labels have 50k or more left in them

The score is the post 2013 Volvo branded contactless ones , which don’t * fail

* past performance is not indicative of future gains. Your mileage may vary. Contains chemicals which cause cancer in the State if CALIFORNIA , but no where else.