Help me save Christmas! 98 V70 no start/rough start Topic is solved

S Carlson · Post by **S Carlson** » 21 Dec 2022, 22:38

My wife's car won't start. If her car can't start, we can't visit the family for Christmas. I need some help!

It began today. It had had some issues before today, stumbling or stalling very occasionally in wet weather maybe? But today I was just running it to give the battery a charge after moving the car to a new parking spot. It had been idling about 5 minutes when it just stalled. I tried to restart and found it would run for a split second and die again. If I really got aggressive with the gas pedal, I could hold the revs around 3k for about 20 seconds before it would invariably die.

I jumpered the fuel pump relay right away. No change.

I unscrewed a fuel line and ran the fuel pump. Seemed to give a good flow.

I checked the fuel pressure. 35psi steady all the while when the engine was sputtering and stalling. I really wanted it to be a fuel problem, but it doesn't seem like it.

I checked fault codes. No fault codes.

I took a spark plug out and looked at it. There is spark as it is cranking and sputtering and stalling and attempting to run. Maybe it is intermittent? Hard to tell. Cap/rotor/plugs/wires are new OEM as of summer 2020, and the car hasn't been used much since then.

I tried all 3 keys, including the "valet key". I unplugged and plugged back in the immobilizer ring antenna. No change.

I rowed the shifter back and forth, and cycled the transmission mode buttons buttons between S, E, and W modes a couple times. No change.

One time, after it had been sitting (maybe I also locked it and unlocked it) I came back out and it started right up and ran for 3 minutes straight, idling just fine, even warmed up a bit, before it shut off and went back to the original symptoms. This caused me to suspect a hall sensor, because they can get flaky when warm.

I ohmed out the crank sensor. That was fine. I ohmed out the cam sensor and found open circuits, so I replaced that, but the new one also showed an open circuit? RobertDIY's video says it should be some number of ohms, but neither of them were. I'd rather not throw any more parts at it!

I finally started it, aggressively used the gas pedal to hold the revs high, and in that moment, unplugged the immobilizer ring. It kept running, badly, finally dying, same as before.

Do I throw an immobilizer ring at it? Would it be helpful if I posted videos of the sputtering and trying to run? Does this remind anyone of anything?

Thanks and happy holidays!

Post by **abscate** » 22 Dec 2022, 02:46

Open up the distributor cap and check the inside for moisture. If the cam seals go, the moisture gets into the cap and wreaks havoc. You need 35 psi of fuel pump pressure to get these cars to run, you need to test it with a gauge to cross off a fuel delivery problem.

It’s not a bad ECU, plugged fuel filter or , “bad gas”; a fools’ diagnosis.

There’s a great Volvo independent in Burlington , give them a call today in time for Sunday!

Swedish Pit...863-2646

S Carlson · Post by **S Carlson** » 22 Dec 2022, 05:18

abscate wrote: ↑22 Dec 2022, 02:46 Open up the distributor cap and check the inside for moisture. If the cam seals go, the moisture gets into the cap and wreaks havoc. You need 35 psi of fuel pump pressure to get these cars to run, you need to test it with a gauge to cross off a fuel delivery problem.

It’s not a bad ECU, plugged fuel filter or , “bad gas”; a fools’ diagnosis.

There’s a great Volvo independent in Burlington , give them a call today in time for Sunday!

Swedish Pit...863-2646

Thank you for responding! Unfortunately, we are in massachusetts and need to get to Vermont. Also, I can't afford whatever anyone will charge for this. Especially if they get it wrong, which they likely will because I've already barked up so many trees and gotten nowhere. I haven't been to a mechanic in decades, I shouldn't have to cave and go to one now. The car's 24 years old. At this point, it's probably cheaper to throw parts at it until it starts. If I understand correctly, hooking up a VIDA or something will likely tell me the issue. Is that right? Is there some code this thing is throwing that I can't get to without the special Volvo scanner?

I will check under the cap. I suspect this not to be the issue, though. Seems like that would get better as it idles and gets warm and burns off the moisture.

As I said in my first post, I did check the fuel pressure with a gauge, and it read 35psi, rock steady.

Any other ideas?

Post by **wizechatmgr** » 22 Dec 2022, 06:23

Are you getting any check engine light illumination? If so, what codes are currently stored?

+1 on the cap with moisture. If you don't know the age of the rotor button you're going to want to replace that as well. These don't dry as the car runs so much...

When were the spark plugs last gapped or replaced?

S Carlson · Post by **S Carlson** » 22 Dec 2022, 08:15

wizechatmgr wrote: ↑22 Dec 2022, 06:23 Are you getting any check engine light illumination? If so, what codes are currently stored?

+1 on the cap with moisture. If you don't know the age of the rotor button you're going to want to replace that as well. These don't dry as the car runs so much...

When were the spark plugs last gapped or replaced?

Yes CEL. p0442 evap small leak. I have had this one a while. No other fault codes, pending historic or current.

As I said, plugs, wires, cap, and rotor, I did in 2020 with OEM parts (Bosch, Bougicord). Few miles since then. Maybe 10k. I took out a plug to check spark. It looked fine, if a little sooty (probably from attempting to start so many times). Got decent spark off of this plug when cranking, although maybe the spark was intermittent. Again, it will start and run and I can hold the revs above 3k for about 10-20 seconds before it quits. I don't think it's "lawnmower syndrome".

I also checked the coolant temp sensor underneath the thermostat. That is within spec as well.

Post by **volvolugnut** » 22 Dec 2022, 09:05

Can your code reader show engine operating parameters? If you could get readings for intake temp, ignition advance, coolant temp, fuel system cycle, etc., and report here, someone may be able to point out problems.

volvolugnut

S Carlson · Post by **S Carlson** » 22 Dec 2022, 09:15

Yeah, I did take a look at a few of those gauge parameters. Everything seemed more or less normal. It's the torque app on an old android phone with an ELM327 adaptor, so not the best but it'll do.

Also, Distributor cap was bone dry inside.

I got excited after I checked all the fuses and found a blown fuse. It was to the Cigarette lighter.

yanga001 · Post by **yanga001** » 22 Dec 2022, 09:24

Vacuum line mounted on the left side of the intake manifold, is it intact? Had that issue once before.

S Carlson · Post by **S Carlson** » 22 Dec 2022, 09:26

I hear that the immobilizer can cause it to run like this, because the immobilizer essentially stops the ECU from metering fuel and spark properly, but doesn't stop it altogether. Is VIDA the only way to electronically check the immobilizer?

yanga001 wrote: ↑22 Dec 2022, 09:24 Vacuum line mounted on the left side of the intake manifold, is it intact? Had that issue once before.

Whose left? Driver's or mechanic's left? I only ask because there are so many vacuum lines! Where does it run to?

I did recently change the vacuum lines to the crankcase ventilation system (in 2020, same time as cap and rotor and plugs and wires). Any chance it is that one? I can rule that out right away.

yanga001 · Post by **yanga001** » 22 Dec 2022, 13:27

The line to the left side of the intake manifold beside the power steering reservoir (Passenger side of intake manifold). 1998's are a fair amount simpler, how old is the ignition coil located by the drivers side strut. Does the coil look overheated or damaged?