2000 V70R - AWD Fuel pump and ejector (Fuel pump 9470674)

[scot850]

It is an 'ejector pump'. What it does is not actually pump but helps to transfer the fuel from the LH to RH side of the fuel tank as the tank in AWD cars were in 2 halves to allow for the front to rear prop-shaft.

There is a a pressure valve in there that works with the return fuel pressure to help transfer fuel to the RHS tank. Both RH and LH side 'pumps' also have a fuel level sensor in them. They work together to average the amount of fuel you have in the tank. It sounds like the repair shop identified the LH level sensor is stuck so giving you the wrong reading on the fuel gauge.

Be aware there is a whole lot of pain coming to replace that ejector pump.

Neil.

[Maestrours]

Yes I Heard so....
The level reading is good on my fuel gauge! The problem is that I run out if fuel even if the left part of the tank is still full.
Do you think that this pressure valve can be defective?

[scot850]

Sounds like you may have a stuck transfer valve in the ejector. The fuel pressure regulator is another possibility it is on the top of the tank on the RHS. Problem with that is it was supplied as part of the fuel pipe which is NLA from Volvo and has been for several years.

The regulator returns fuel and pressure to the tank which both pushes the fuel into the tank and gives the tank pressure for the ejector to pass fuel to the RHS.

Sorry to be the bearer of bad news.

Neil.

[Maestrours]

no problem haha . i guess the FPR is good as I get 58 psi on my injector ramp, or is it more complicated to diagnose? (the RHS pump as been changed 3 years ago by previous owner, only the pump motor part.)

BTW, I'm questionning if this can be related to this problem: when, I put key in position 2, I hear fuel pump as it should be. but if I wait to start the engine, like 1 min, the car will start and then stop immediatly. I'll have to take off the key, and make pump turn again to start again.
If I immediatly start after hearing the pump it'll always run fine.

Is it normal that pressure cannot stay? Can the FPR or something else be guilty?

thanks again

[manovlov]

no problem haha . i guess the FPR is good as I get 58 psi on my injector ramp, or is it more complicated to diagnose? (the RHS pump as been changed 3 years ago by previous owner, only the pump motor part.)

BTW, I'm questionning if this can be related to this problem: when, I put key in position 2, I hear fuel pump as it should be. but if I wait to start the engine, like 1 min, the car will start and then stop immediatly. I'll have to take off the key, and make pump turn again to start again.
If I immediatly start after hearing the pump it'll always run fine.

Is it normal that pressure cannot stay? Can the FPR or something else be guilty?

thanks again

To me it's unusual that the pressure does not stay. Do you loose gasoline, or smell it during this" minute " ?

[Maestrours]

No I don't think so, never smell any gasoline odor. But when I turn off my engine, I sometimes hear a fluid and bubbles noise coming from the back of the car, like fuel returning back to the tank?

[abscate]

You should monitor the fuel pressure during the warm start to see if it is losing pressure. The normal spec is to hold pressure for 20 minutes after turn off, it might be different for the AWD and R fuel system though.

[SwedishMadeFunBrick]

Anyone source a replacement for the driver side ejector pump? Looks like NLA part 9470840?

Am going to be replacing my passenger side of pump once we again due to intolerable noise made by my new replacement pump and would enjoy fuel gauge that works below half a tank, so am looking for the driver side part as well.

[Maestrours]

Maybe this is the rhs sensor which is bad?
just bought in US an used 9470840 on ebay, think this was the last one...

[abscate]

Maybe this is the rhs sensor which is bad?
just bought in US an used 9470840 on ebay, think this was the last one...

See knowledge on the fuel sensors for the AWD below

Short version. If a sensor fails full, the gauge will never go below 1/2 full. If it failed empty, it will never go above 1/2 full. A wiring break is probably more likely than a gauge failure. The white sender wires are small and the fitting through the cap,is delicate.

If you just drop the tank you could confirm the right hand side is feeding gas over to the left hand side by disconnecting the fitting and pressurinsing the pump. Those fitttings are tough and require a forked tool to go under and push up in the plastic coupler which you work the line off. There are details on this in this forum



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