850 R Oil cooler system upgrade (aftermarket)

gofra · Post by **gofra** » 18 Jan 2023, 05:54

Hey everyone,

since my car is currently taken apart as the engine is being rebuilt, I was thinking of upgrading the stock oil cooler system. I've seen Robert DIY finding out it simply isn't effective, besides, I need to replace both intake and out-take hoses anyway, as they're done. My biggest concern, however is the fear that the oil line inside the radiator might fail, which I've been said can cause oil and coolant to mix.

Anyways, I was looking to instal this kit:
https://www.maxrpm.de/Racimex-oil-coole ... at-adapter

... coupled with a 13-16 row radiator.

Has anyone ever done something similar? I take it you need to remove the stock thermostat housing and block the holes with a plate + plug the oil passage holes on the radiator as well? What is the most common reason for the oil pipe to fail inside the radiator? Is it possible to remove it permanently or just block it?

Thank you in advance!

Best, Frane

Post by **Chuck W** » 18 Jan 2023, 06:33

I did the RN oil pan swap on my 850. There are some changes that need to be made to the water pipe on the back of the engine, and some fiddling with turbo coolant/oil hoses.

I wouldn't be worried about the oil cooler inside of the radiator failing. It's kind of a rarity, and even less so if you just abandon the system in the radiator (no need to plug the unused oil ports, unless you really want to). The main issue with the stock cooler set-up is the lines and the silly o-rings on the stock thermostat housing. They are a pain and usually leak.

Since the car is apart, now is the time to mess with the RN pan swap, as it also requires the later oil pick-up. I did my pan swap when the car was apart for the manual conversion.

I think messing with that aftermarket air/oil cooler set-up is just going to give you as many hassles as the stock stuff.

gofra · Post by **gofra** » 18 Jan 2023, 06:41

Nice! Thanks @Chuck!

since I found visible signs of damage in the sump and the top plate was actually broken in two pieces, swapping to RN doesn't sound like a bad idea - especially given the fact I need to reuse the stock oil pump (replacements are no longer available) and beside testing it, I'll never know if it's still good.

Got maybe any good links that show this swap-to-RN-procedure more in depth? Curios to see how it works, what I can get rid of and what stays on the car as I'm in the process of gathering / buying parts.

Thank you!

Post by **Chuck W** » 18 Jan 2023, 06:51

I have some stuff on my project thread over on SwedeSpeed. I'd have to dig back on what I actually used.

A suggestion from Will on another project over there.

00-01 water tree and lines. This will be compatible with your N block oil squirter ports without requiring custom bending any lines.

Any RN pan with oil cooler will do, so basically anything.

Any 01 T5 16t is the play.

I don't remember which water pipe I used, but I know I did need to bend some of the lines around the oil squirter ports on mine. I also swapped a 16T, but it also wasn't the one suggested above :p

Post by **foggydogg** » 18 Jan 2023, 08:55

gofra wrote: ↑18 Jan 2023, 05:54 Hey everyone,

since my car is currently taken apart as the engine is being rebuilt, I was thinking of upgrading the stock oil cooler system. I've seen Robert DIY finding out it simply isn't effective, besides, I need to replace both intake and out-take hoses anyway, as they're done. My biggest concern, however is the fear that the oil line inside the radiator might fail, which I've been said can cause oil and coolant to mix.

Thank you in advance!

Best, Frane

Here is Robert's experiment,

The cooling line delete plate is still available in the dealer network in the States, 1366780. The o-ring is the same as used on the oil thermostat. Robert always carries the correct torx driver with him during his junkyard crawls. All the normally aspirated white blocks had them as I recall.
Once eliminated there is no danger of cross contamination. The last few Robert has done on clients cars he simply abandoned the lines in situ.
If you need a new pan anyway, and can find the newer pan used that may be a good option, but there are those few other things needed, and as I recall it changes the oil filter setup ?

gofra · Post by **gofra** » 18 Jan 2023, 09:41

Chuck W wrote: ↑18 Jan 2023, 06:51 I have some stuff on my project thread over on SwedeSpeed. I'd have to dig back on what I actually used.

A suggestion from Will on another project over there.

00-01 water tree and lines. This will be compatible with your N block oil squirter ports without requiring custom bending any lines.

Any RN pan with oil cooler will do, so basically anything.

Any 01 T5 16t is the play.

I don't remember which water pipe I used, but I know I did need to bend some of the lines around the oil squirter ports on mine. I also swapped a 16T, but it also wasn't the one suggested above :p

Cool thanks, will do a dig-around. As for "water tree and lines", can you remember what specifically is meant by that? Just the main cooling pipe or all the water hoses and pipes? Got them mostly all silicone now and would like to make sure before I start getting into extra expenses.

Oh and, btw, I'm already using a Mitsubishi TD04HL-18T Turbo - how much does that change things?

gofra · Post by **gofra** » 18 Jan 2023, 09:43

foggydogg wrote: ↑18 Jan 2023, 08:55
gofra wrote: ↑18 Jan 2023, 05:54 Hey everyone,

since my car is currently taken apart as the engine is being rebuilt, I was thinking of upgrading the stock oil cooler system. I've seen Robert DIY finding out it simply isn't effective, besides, I need to replace both intake and out-take hoses anyway, as they're done. My biggest concern, however is the fear that the oil line inside the radiator might fail, which I've been said can cause oil and coolant to mix.

Thank you in advance!

Best, Frane
The cooling line delete plate is still available in the dealer network in the States, 1366780. The o-ring is the same as used on the oil thermostat. Robert always carries the correct torx driver with him during his junkyard crawls. All the normally aspirated white blocks had them as I recall.
Once eliminated there is no danger of cross contamination. The last few Robert has done on clients cars he simply abandoned the lines in situ.
If you need a new pan anyway, and can find the newer pan used that may be a good option, but there are those few other things needed, and as I recall it changes the oil filter setup ?

I don't think oil filter setup changes - the sandwich plate just gets inserted between the filter and the block. Good to know about the plates - thanks!

Post by **foggydogg** » 19 Jan 2023, 10:35

gofra wrote: ↑18 Jan 2023, 09:41
Chuck W wrote: ↑18 Jan 2023, 06:51 I have some stuff on my project thread over on SwedeSpeed. I'd have to dig back on what I actually used.

I don't remember which water pipe I used, but I know I did need to bend some of the lines around the oil squirter ports on mine. I also swapped a 16T, but it also wasn't the one suggested above :p
Cool thanks, will do a dig-around. As for "water tree and lines", can you remember what specifically is meant by that? Just the main cooling pipe or all the water hoses and pipes? Got them mostly all silicone now and would like to make sure before I start getting into extra expenses.

Oh and, btw, I'm already using a Mitsubishi TD04HL-18T Turbo - how much does that change things?

If you think it will help, dig through Robert's videos on his 850 T5R buildup (Black Panther) , as I recall he did upgrade his turbo on that car, and he does do track days - and probably a bit of street racing too. He regularly pulls a trailer/tow dolly, and usually has a half-ton of spare parts in back, so he's pretty hard on the equipment. Poor thing has over 420,000 miles on it now.

gofra · Post by **gofra** » 19 Jan 2023, 11:43

foggydogg wrote: ↑19 Jan 2023, 10:35
gofra wrote: ↑18 Jan 2023, 09:41
Chuck W wrote: ↑18 Jan 2023, 06:51 I have some stuff on my project thread over on SwedeSpeed. I'd have to dig back on what I actually used.

I don't remember which water pipe I used, but I know I did need to bend some of the lines around the oil squirter ports on mine. I also swapped a 16T, but it also wasn't the one suggested above :p
Cool thanks, will do a dig-around. As for "water tree and lines", can you remember what specifically is meant by that? Just the main cooling pipe or all the water hoses and pipes? Got them mostly all silicone now and would like to make sure before I start getting into extra expenses.

Oh and, btw, I'm already using a Mitsubishi TD04HL-18T Turbo - how much does that change things?
If you think it will help, dig through Robert's videos on his 850 T5R buildup (Black Panther) , as I recall he did upgrade his turbo on that car, and he does do track days - and probably a bit of street racing too. He regularly pulls a trailer/tow dolly, and usually has a half-ton of spare parts in back, so he's pretty hard on the equipment. Poor thing has over 420,000 miles on it now.

Oh I'm following Robert

Post by **MoVolvos** » 19 Jan 2023, 13:50

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The main cooling medium in the car is the radiator coolant. If you lower the temp or allow for faster cooling it will lower the oil temp with less fluctuation in temp also. Our 03 Honda Odyssey, due to the cheap easily stripped threads on the new radiator, I opted for a complete bypass directly into to a large transmission cooler. I've purchase around 5 Hayden coolers over the years with 3 in the last 5 years from the seller below.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/194073153863?e ... BM8NT2ublh

Now the transmission fluid temp is always lower than the coolant temp regardless of load or season. The OE transmission has better shifts @ 240K than before I installed it. I'm also finding the transmission fluid stays cleaner due to the lower temperatures. I measure the temp with an infrared gun on the inlet of the transmission cooler at various times and seasons to confirm the temp readings.

Have another sitting around and may try it on the 00 S70 NA when time permits.

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