Rear Intake Camshaft Seal 9443310 Replacement, Is there a write up?

rick4484 · Post by **rick4484** » 18 Jan 2023, 15:33

98 S70 T5

I'm trying to replace both rear camshaft seals because of oil leakage. I see both are showing oil seepage. I started with the rear intake seal, removed the distributor cap and rotor. Now, I see the mount that the rotor attaches to, and it appears I'll need a puller to get this off before I can get to the seal. I've been looking for a puller, but can't seem to locate anything that looks like it will work. Is there a write up on this? Does anyone know of a puller that would work on this? It looks like the puller will need to thread onto the mount in three places.

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I see write ups on the S70 non-turbo, but those are mainly showing the rear exhaust camshaft seal replacement. The T5 looks a little tougher to do especially the rear exhaust seal due to the hoses and pipes running close to, and in front of, the Camshaft Position Sensor.

Post by **erikv11** » 18 Jan 2023, 16:16

No puller needed for that rotor mounting plate. Remove the center bolt that screws into the camshaft (use a 10 mm socket) and then you should be able to pull it off with fingertips or just pry gently with a small screwdriver. It comes straight out.

For the T5 exhaust cam rear seal here are some general tips: remove the airbox and the intake snorkel for the turbo, that mostly gives you the room to get at the cam seal. Use a short section of PVC pipe to tap the new seal in until flush.

I think there are DIYs here at MVS for these cam seals, written by cn90, that give more detail than needed (always helpful!).

Corteco or Volvo only on the cam seals or you'll be doing it again soon. Also, check the PCV; do the glove test.

rick4484 · Post by **rick4484** » 18 Jan 2023, 19:31

erikv11, in the image I posted in my original post is the rear camshaft intake, the rotor attaches to those three threaded holes on the mount, there is no 10mm bolt in the center. You might be thinking of the rear camshaft exhaust, which has a 10mm bolt, and is what I'll be tackling next. So far, I did remove the air box, but not the snorkel. (Edit: erikv11, was right there was a 10mm bolt in the center of this plate, I removed it earlier and forgot it was there, don't make the same mistake I made.)

I purchased Volvo seals, replaced the PCV system a few weeks ago, did the glove test and it's fine. Did the glove test before changing the PCV system, it was fine then too, no clogs.

The only way I see this rotor mounting plate coming off is with a puller. I think the camshaft shaft is keyed to the rotor mount and when replacing it, after I replace the seal, I'll need to tap it into place. It looks like the rear intake seal is a bit more difficult to replace than the exhaust seal, which might explain the difficulty in finding write ups or videos . I wonder if most people forego the intake seal if it's not leaking so bad. Mine is not leaking that much so I might be doing the same here.

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Post by **abscate** » 18 Jan 2023, 23:55

That plate will pop out. I think someone left an M6 off last time this job was done

Make match marks so you don’t spend three weeks with a crank, no start like me

I *think * it’s an M7 985135 , same as a cam cover screw , you could swipe one from the top to check fit and thread * gently*

Post by **erikv11** » 19 Jan 2023, 00:19

What abscate said about the rear of the intake cam - there is no bolt in the center because it is missing. Plate pops right off. Hopefully the plate is not jammed on or epoxied on etc by a previous worker. Rear intake cam seal is the one most commonly and most easily replaced on these engines and clearly someone has been in there before.

As for the rear exhaust cam seal, it is routine to replace that too but as you figured out first move a few things out of the way.

Here's a write-up for intake and exhaust rear seals viewtopic.php?t=50752, it was written for a non-turbo so the rear involves moving a couple more things out of the way but the seal swap part of the job is exactly the same. You may want to make it a point to read through it all to the end and then decide which methods to use - this job is pretty common so there are lots of updates and tips scattered in the thread.

Post by **abscate** » 19 Jan 2023, 04:02

The write up above, like all with content from cn90, Robb, Robert Spinner, and Erik, is excellent

Post by **Sveedy** » 19 Jan 2023, 07:35

Remember to correctly index the metal tabs on that plate to the end of the camshaft. It will go on both ways, but the car will not start if the plate is 180* off.

rick4484 · Post by **rick4484** » 19 Jan 2023, 11:10

To everyone who commented, thank you. With that information I was able to remove the plate (rotor mount as I call it now) by removing the bolts from the rotor, inserting them into the rotor mount and pulling. It popped right out. I guess I could've simply pulled on the rotor when it was attached, and the whole assembly would've come out in one piece, but I tend to over think things. Also, following everyone's advice, I marked the position so it can be reinstalled correctly. However, I wanted to see what it might look like if I reinstalled it incorrectly so, gently, I placed it back into the housing, incorrectly, and immediately noticed some resistance. I stopped and examined the tabs and the corresponding slot, and noticed they seemed to be machined in such a way as an "effort" to prevent incorrect installation. The slot appears to be slightly off center so that the tabs are slightly misaligned if you attempt to install it improperly, but I'm sure it can be done by applying a little more force, as abscate may have experienced. Also, taking a photo of the rotor mount before removal will assist in reinstalling it correctly as the bolts will be in different positions if you attempt to install it improperly.

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rick4484 · Post by **rick4484** » 19 Jan 2023, 11:56

erikv11 wrote: ↑18 Jan 2023, 16:16 No puller needed for that rotor mounting plate. Remove the center bolt that screws into the camshaft (use a 10 mm socket) and then you should be able to pull it off with fingertips or just pry gently with a small screwdriver. It comes straight out.

erickv11, my apologies for suggesting you were thinking of the exhaust seal. You were exactly right, that there is a 10mm bolt in the center of the rotor mounting plate. I removed it earlier before I snapped a photo, placed it on my work bench, and forgot about it. I was so wrapped up in how to remove the plate, I didn't remember that I removed the bolt about an hour earlier. I'll add to my post so that others may not make the same mistake. Taking lots of photos at each step before removing anything, including bolts, is very important.

Post by **kallekula** » 19 Jan 2023, 13:34

Guess its the same procedure as most of the times to get the seal itself out. Drill a small hole, insert screw that you can pull on and done. Don’t have to tell you to be VERY careful though so you dont damage the seal surfaces. Doing this on the RMS is a bit stressful to say the least