Headlght wiper

Post by **scot850** » 20 Jan 2023, 15:19

They are on the same fuse as the main wipers, so if they a headlight wiper motor burns out as they are no longer thermally regulated, then you take out the main wipers as well as they are on the same fuse. You may not damage the actual wiper motor and mechanism, but you would have to stop and change the fuse and disconnect the offending headlight wiper motor.

This is the link I am talking about. These are for the door actuators, but they use similar motors if you only want the thermal resistor:

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000719 ... -recommend

Neil.

Post by **hausmeister** » 20 Jan 2023, 16:32

Thanks, will check. Also found out some people are using SMD150-f or similat as a replacement.
Don't mind doing it right if it is not too much of a problem.

Post by **scot850** » 20 Jan 2023, 18:44

Hardest part is opening them up. If I recall the 850 ones have a longer shaft due to the extra trim under the headlight. They also had metal cogs on the end of the wiper arm as seen in your pictures. Later ones had plastic cogs which could break, but rotating them 180 degrees they usually were good to go again.

Neil.

Post by **hausmeister** » 21 Jan 2023, 06:05

I tried the motor today with some flat fuses and it blew them up to 7.5A. So yeah, maybe the PTC isn't even bad

I'll try to rebuild it, if it works I'll take more pics of the 2nd one. But definitely it was sparking like crazy, so not good.

Post by **scot850** » 21 Jan 2023, 17:50

Good luck and let us know how you get on!

Thanks,

Neil.

Post by **pfmet** » 30 Jul 2023, 12:25

Since this old thread has been resurrected I’ll bump it again. I’ve got a new radiator showing up tomorrow and after I’ve checked to confirm it is the correct one I’ll begin that process. However three days ago I noted my passenger side headlight wiper pointed at the sky and thus began my latest search and I think I’ve read about every thread here and about on this subject. Lesson number one, it’s easier to do the necessary repairs with the radiator out. No procrastinating on this job I guess. I wonder, Neil, when you say you bought motors , do you mean just the silver canister with all the numbers in hausmeister’s pics? And I’m unsure what you refer t by caps with shaft contacts, an reference to capacitors? The fuse I assume is the thermistor, correct? And how exactly did you search them out. I admit I haven’t tried. Ordering something from China now could delay things too long. But I’m hoping to deal with what we have to work with. Spare parts would be cool though. Especially for a few dollars?

The motor on mine runs fine for a very brief while, 2 or 3 secs, then it quickly slows to a grind and l pulled the power before it died out completely. A few minutes later it will do the same thing. And they are both rather noisy, actually the left more so than the right. So I’m going for a disassembly, cleaning, regressing, and maybe a new or alternate “fuse”/ contact. I prefer it remained protected. I haven’t noticed a problem in the 17 yrs we’ve owned the car. A fine old ‘99. I’ll post more when it’s apart and I have solid data.

Post by **pfmet** » 30 Jul 2023, 12:34

Just noticed page two with the link to the Door lock “motors” . That’s not the first time I’ve skipped a few pages. Sorry.

Post by **pfmet** » 30 Jul 2023, 12:47

For Neil, The square item circled in pink in the Aliexpress link photo is the correct thermistor for both the wiper motors and door lock actuators?

Post by **scot850** » 30 Jul 2023, 13:04

I believe so. Same motor shows up for both, but not sure anyone really knows what value of thermistor is needed. I recall a thread somewhere many years ago where someone soldered a regular round bodied thermistor to either side of the contacts and that seemed to work. Can't recall if that was on a door actuator or a wiper motor. To answer your question, yes it is the metal can motor as you have now seen in the thread you mentioned.

Funnily, I just picked up a brand new pair of 98-00 wiper motors from someone on facebook marketplace. Mentioned it in my V70R Rocking horse poo thread. I think it is the RH one that is NLA. LH was still shown as a classic part available from GCP.se part number in thread below. RH part number is retired. I'll be keeping those for now until I have tried the Chinese parts. That is a winter project!

viewtopic.php?t=102573&start=10

Neil.

Post by **hausmeister** » 31 Jul 2023, 10:17

btw, I am done with rebuilding them, but did not have any time to reinstall and try them for real. I don't think you need to replace the motors, they seem way overbuilt, but the brushes and rotors need to be sanded down a bit for them to work correctly again, at least on mine.

I wanted to wait until I had them installed and tested to post anything, but I'll just put up what I did so far, if it helps someone:

Note: it would be best to mark or note in which position the gears are assembled, I didn't do that and will likely have to do a lot of trial and error to get it right again. There is a switch that opens the circuit and the position depends on the gears...

- plastic casing:
I found it easiest to start with moving the small latches, then opening the big latches as much as possible, additionally prying them open and open the small ones. Start on the rectangular side.
On the first one I cut the small nubs unter the big latches which made it easier, but might not be good for holding together later on...

Rest of the disassembly is easy, get out the shaft and everything comes apart easy.
It is pretty greasy in there
I regreased it since it smelled pretty burned, but I think it could be left as is.

: casing1.jpg (289.56 KiB) Viewed 374 times

: casing2.jpg (308.38 KiB) Viewed 374 times

: inside01.jpg (353.82 KiB) Viewed 371 times

: inside02.jpg (476.92 KiB) Viewed 371 times

: inside.jpg (502.61 KiB) Viewed 374 times

: inside1.jpg (432.44 KiB) Viewed 374 times

: inside2.jpg (476.22 KiB) Viewed 374 times

: grease.jpg (396.49 KiB) Viewed 371 times

- rebuilding motor
To test I removed the cogs, put the motor on 12v and measured amps. First one was bad (>7A) and the second one seemed better, they seem to use ~0.3A when running without load.

To rebuild, remove the clipped in motor, bend up the 2 latches (don't damage them) and then clean/sand the contacts and I also filed the brushes a bit as they only had a very small contact area. Clean reassemble & test, you can see here good contact of the brushes. Bend back the contacts and re-insert motor, regrease & assemble.
I tested them partly assembled with zip-ties holding the internals in to see if it will work with the PTCs and driving the gears.

: motor0.jpg (273.34 KiB) Viewed 374 times

: motor1.jpg (264.77 KiB) Viewed 374 times

: motor3.jpg (274.62 KiB) Viewed 374 times

: brush1.jpg (263.98 KiB) Viewed 374 times

: brush2.jpg (307.81 KiB) Viewed 374 times

: brush3.jpg (283.24 KiB) Viewed 374 times

: brush4.jpg (292.91 KiB) Viewed 374 times

: brush5.jpg (300.24 KiB) Viewed 372 times

: rebuilt.jpg (314.13 KiB) Viewed 374 times

- PTC
Regarding PTC
One of them seemed to be fine, but it would stop after extended running, even with the rebuilt motor. So it most likely does not work correctly any more.
I first wanted to use small 1cm aluminium squares to replace them, but I found something that works as a replacement:
SMD150F small SMD fuses (1.5A)... I cut off the bent section and then you can use them between the contacts. Can be tricky to get in.

: Fuse.jpg (357.95 KiB) Viewed 374 times

: fuse1.jpg (428.89 KiB) Viewed 371 times

: Fuse installed.jpg (297.78 KiB) Viewed 374 times

Headlght wiper

Re: Headlght wiper