1990 240 fuel relay no start Topic is solved

[volvolugnut]

As I recall, the left side panel of the center console will need to be removed. The surround of the shifter may also need to be removed. The carpet MAY then be lifted enough to reach the ground screw. But I am not sure this process is correct.
volvolugnut

[kylelarsen143]

update- removed seats and carpet to clean ground, still in a no start with crank. still getting power to the pump by jumping fuses, but not able to get running anymore. talked to a tech at a volvo dealership and he suggested replacing the ignition switch, does that sound like it's worth a try?

[volvolugnut]

I just checked FCP Euro. The ignition switch is $166. For my money, I would try to confirm the actual problem first.
volvolugnut

[kylelarsen143]

fair enough, my name ain't paul getty either! just sort of running out of ideas and the only other thing i could think of was the crankshaft position sensor which we could probably say the same thing about. unfortunately i am in a situation where i am alone, miles down an old country road in florida while my tools are back in TN and i am more of a dumbass with a dream than a mechanic to begin with. i did find a shop that is within my AAA towing range, but i wanted to cross as many wrong ideas as possible off the list before i admit defeat and spend more than i want to. parts geek had an OEM for $105, so i went ahead and bought it since i will almost certainly need it one of these fine days. i have already replaced both pumps, ECT, MAF, O2 sensor, fuel pressure reg, flame trap, water pump, yadda yadda so im already in for a dime on this project. any bases that i have left uncovered?

[kylelarsen143]

am i correct to assume that i have fuel, air (no leaks or clogged airbox) and most likely compression but no spark which is keeping the manual jump on the fuse from giving me a start?

[volvolugnut]

An easy test for spark without tools, but a helper:
Remove a plug wire and carefully position the metal terminal about 1/4 inch from a metal part of the engine. Try to position so you do not have to hold the wire, but the wire will not move when the engine cranks. Hold with rubber hose or some insulator if you must. You do not want to get the ignition shock.
Have a helper crank the engine and watch for a spark jumping to the engine metal. It may help to do this at night.
This will confirm you have ignition.
volvolugnut

[kylelarsen143]

ok, i'll report back when i can find a helper. not sure if this information is useful, but there were a few other electrical/mechanical symptoms ongoing beforehand. namely reverse lights, rear wiper, and directional indicators were out, but i have brake lights and hazards, and i checked the engine codes and got the ECT (had that one for years, even after replacement woth OEM part), knock sensor, and the computer confirmed my suspicious mind that i was running/idling too rich.

[volvolugnut]

This is a wagon? That info is important to fuel tank work.
Wagons are very likely to have frayed wires in the left hatch hinge that cause the rear wiper to fail. They have to flex every time the hatch is opened.
volvolugnut

[kylelarsen143]

you were correct on both counts volvolugnut! the wagons harness has snapped apart, and after i rigged a spark plug to a long dowel so it would stay in a place i could see through the bonnet's gap, there was neither sight nor sound of spark, which would certainly cause the fuel from the jumped inline to fail to combust.

tried to pull the crankshaft position sensor taught and reconnect the pins and see if i could get anything out of them (and noticed the adjacent vacuum line was toast while i was at it) but still failed the spark test. should i try replacing with a bougicord CPS?

[volvolugnut]

My Bentley manual has some information on the EZ-116K ignition system your car has. What flashing light codes have you read? Have you visually inspected the distributor internals? Remove the cap clips and look for moisture and corrosion.
There is a test and code for faulty speed sender.
volvolugnut