Alternator condition - How to check?

[MrAl]

Rebuild at my awesome electric shop,is $100-150 and is much better than the Rock Auto crap.

Hi,

Is that a parts outlet or do you rebuild them yourself?

[MrAl]

I pulled an alternator from a 2004 C70 that was in the junkyard after being rear-ended. So applying some limited logic, as the accident was at the rear, there was a fair chance the alternator was running at the time of the accident so should be a good stand-by from my 2000 R.

Well first the confusion. I don't know what alternator actually is correct for my car, as even the Volvo dealer websites conflict. Some say it fits and some say no.

Anyway, as it only cost $35 CDN, I thought it may be worth keeping as a back-up for my car or someone else's in the future even if it turns out not to be correct for my car. I replaced the alternator at the end of 2012 with a re-built Bosch unit direct from Bosch Canada. I have found the receipt and it is a Bosch AL-0805-X. Interesting as the Voltage regulator on the original alternator to the car was Bosch part #:

BR14-M1 and F OOM 145 230. The replacement regulator is also a BR14-M1 but the other number is F OOM A45 207

This alternator has the regulator part # F OOM 145 230 as seen here:

PXL_20230130_221436880.MP.jpg

Going by the regulator can I assume it is the correct alternator? The part numbers on this alternator are:

PXL_20230130_221422916.jpg

I can't find a cross reference for the alternator and the only part site I can usually rely on for part numbers for my car is IPD as they are the only site that lists the correct 2.4 liter engine (B5244T2) for my car, everyone else lists a 2.3 liter engine. However the part number on this alternator is Volvo # 9459077 which is not listed a an alternate for my car but the Bosch # AL0805-X is.

A local parts supplier I use occasionally said they could test it off the car which they have done for me before with other alternators. However, they said there are 2 different alternators in 2004 for the C70 depending on if the car had a 2.4 or 2.3 liter engine. Naturally this must be from a 2.3 as they did not have the connector cables for the alternator but then suggested taking it to a starter/alternator shop and gave me a name. I took it there today, but I am always suspicious when they take the unit to a back room where you can't see what is happening and then come back and say the unit is bad and needs a total re-build at a cost of $250 CDN including a new clutch. They said the stator was badly grooved and would need replaced.

Call me cynical, but I decided against a re-build and will remove the voltage regulator and have a look internally for wear. I have found another parts shop I plan to take it to tomorrow assuming they have the correct connector.

The bearings are quiet so I had been thinking of buying a Bosch voltage regulator and cleaning it up and sticking it on the shelf, or would I be better keeping the regulator and only fitting if it is needed in the future?

If it is bad I can return it for a credit at the junkyard withing 30 days.

UPDATE: If I use the Vin # for my car in the Volvo dealer sites, they give the alternator as # 9459077. So I guess this is correct as they also list the engine as a 2.4 liter turbo.

Thoughts please!

Neil.

Hi Neil,

This might be a little late but the way i used to do it back in the late 1970's was as follows.

I used a thick fiberglass panel and mounted the alternator on the panel and a 120vac electric motor with a pully that matched the alternator. For this alternator the pully was just a regular V belt type pulley. The motor had the same, but i dont remember the diameters of the two pulleys now. I also dont remember the connections with the alternator.
As i turned on the motor i could charge a 12 volts lead acid battery that way.

All it took was a strong panel that could hold both the alternator and the electric motor. I think the motor was 1/2 HP but dont remember it was a long time ago.

Some time later i also charged a car battery with a heavy duty diode and 120vac, with a light bulb in series to limit current. It is not the safest way to charge a car battery (ground shock possibilities) but it got the car started. To be safer i connected it to the battery then when back in the basement plugged in the extension cord, then waited for the battery to charge a bit, then unplugged, then started the car.

There might be a way to power the alternator so that it runs like a motor, but we'd have to look into that they have some other parts that has to be considered too. Probably wont test the voltage regulator though.

My alternator is 50 to 100 amps Bosch, for the 1998 v70 non turbo , automatic trans, FWD. Battery is the biggest they make i think, except the last repair shop put in a slightly undersized battery.

[abscate]

Added link to Xcel auto Electric in Albany area