shock absorber support plate

[enotslim]

2004 XC70 - After an alignment for bad handling I noticed that the upper bolt of the left rear strut tower was entirely loose, the shock was free to roam, and the central guide of the shock absorber support plate shows an eccentric wear pattern. See photos. I'm rebuilding the right and left towers with new springs, spring seats, shocks and support plates. I think the metal housing for the upper components (part W0133-1891457 on the right) is still OK.

I haven't found anything about replacing the support plate. Is it simply removing/replacing the three obvious bolts while swapping in the new support plate? Torque specs for these three bolts?

Also, anyone know the torque spec for the upper bolt on the strut tower (18mm with central Tx40 to stop the strut from spinning)?

What is the rusty threaded rod exiting the top of the metal housing? I've always wondered what this was about.

Thanks.

[PixelDust]

I'm not sure why the rear strut tower would've been tampered with during an alignment. There would be no reason for a technician to mess with it. The rear suspension arm stay has an eccentric bolt that is adjustable, but that's the only rear alignment adjustment that can be done on this vehicle.

The rusty, threaded rod is the strut mount rod, though that may not be the technical name. The counter stay nut with the T-40 should be in the 50-80 NM range.

Please tell me you have a spring compressor to complete the job, right?. It's not easy, installation can be very difficult. Very tight space. Hard for experienced techs to handle for the first time. One tip I have if you're doing this job on your own, is to hook a ratchet strap to each control arm, tighten the strap as much as possible, and that'll bring them down for easier installation.

Regarding the "support plate," I'd say yes replace it. Replace all the hardware if the strut had been left loose. Make sure you know the correct placement of the hardware for installation. As for the part (W0133-1891457), I've never seen one need to be replaced. Unless its bent, it's fine.

Your tightening specs are as follows-


M5 - 5 NM
M6 - 10 NM
M7- 17 NM
M8 - 24 NM
M10 - 50 NM
M12 - 80 NM
M14 - 130 NM

Whatever grade the nut/bolt/screw has stamped on it, torque it to the above specs. Some fasteners require additional angle torque, but the fasteners you're dealing with don't.

[BlackBart]

That must have made a LOT of noise.

[enotslim]

Thanks!

I assumed that an alignment tech would mention the loose strut tower - so it's probably coincidence that
first observed just after an alignment? To be honest, I haven't checked frequently until this winter.

I just finished rebuilding and installing both rear strut towers and rear sway bar end links with Sachs components including new support plates (as suggested above). Torqued the 18mm/T-40 strut tower bolt to 50 ft-lb (68 NM). Returned the eccentric bolts to their initial position and rides much better already (of course) but will also get an alignment.

I got the ratchet strap method to work but only after disengaging both the sway bar end link and the control arm stay on the side being fitted (or on both sides). It still required all the force I could apply to the strap using my legs on the ratchet mechanism (I'm weak) but it did work. Made this a one-person job - which was good but I missed my visit from Steve Albany.

After trying two models of sticks and a clam shell device I settled on a one-piece spring compressor (see photo with the rear strut tower in a completely uncompressed state). Similar to the tool Volvo shows in their diagrams but manual, not driven by compressed air. Seems very stable and can compress a relaxed spring sufficiently for an initial installation. Other compressors I tried would compress a previously installed spring (that was already partially compressed) to swap in a new shock or other components, but struggled to compress a new spring sufficiently to swap in for an installed spring.

[PixelDust]

Interesting. I commend you on completing the repair.

I'd give that job an 8/10 on difficulty in a shop environment, 10/10 if you don't have a lift.