Replacing exhaust manifold and gaskets on 96 R. Likelihood of breaking studs?

[slickdizzy]

I am getting the parts together to replace my exhaust manifold and gaskets. I have done this job on other vehicles before but never a Volvo; how likely am I to break the exhaust manifold studs when removing the nuts? Anyone have experience doing this job on an 850 turbo? Any tips to help with disassembly?

It’s one thing if a stud just comes out, I have spares, but it will not be good if I break a stud off in the head…

[Sveedy]

I had 0 problems doing that. Sprayed them the night before with PBBlaster. I think a couple of the studs came out, but I just cleaned them up and reinstalled. Checked 1K later and no problems.

[Vova585]

Most likely you will have no problems with unbolting the manifold from head. Unbolting the turbo from the manifold is totally different beast and usually 2 out of 4 bolts break.(sorry don't remember exactly if you absolutely have to unbolt turbo, but i had issue with turbo to manifold gasket so needed to do that anyway)I would invest into several spare studs and a good stud removal soket. If you have extra money you can get conduction heater tool(looks like a water heater element spiral that goes around the nut and heats it) and you will be golden.

[abscate]

Put a good minute of propane heat on each nut and they will come off like magic

[slickdizzy]

Thanks all. I am replacing the manifold with a Japanifold and swapping my old 15G turbo for a fresh 16T. If I end up with any broken turbo to manifold studs or similar, those I can deal with, as the parts that are coming off the car are not going back on. However I'll be up shit creek as they say if I break a stud off in the cylinder head!

I have already proactively started hitting all the nuts with PB Blaster every other day in preparation for the work (as best as I can, anyway, just kind of blindly spraying at the recess in the manifold where the nuts are because access isn't great from up top). I'm just going to keep at this process until I find time to get the car into the workshop and up on a lift to do the work, and hope that it all comes apart reasonably well...

[MrAl]

Thanks all. I am replacing the manifold with a Japanifold and swapping my old 15G turbo for a fresh 16T. If I end up with any broken turbo to manifold studs or similar, those I can deal with, as the parts that are coming off the car are not going back on. However I'll be up shit creek as they say if I break a stud off in the cylinder head!

I have already proactively started hitting all the nuts with PB Blaster every other day in preparation for the work (as best as I can, anyway, just kind of blindly spraying at the recess in the manifold where the nuts are because access isn't great from up top). I'm just going to keep at this process until I find time to get the car into the workshop and up on a lift to do the work, and hope that it all comes apart reasonably well...

Hi,

Can you use those "easy outs" ?
I remember them from way back. You drill a hole in the center of the stud, then insert one of those things and use that to turn the bolt out.
They might call them something else too like "bolt extraction tool" or something else.

[volvolugnut]

There is art and science of broken bolt extraction. I expect there are many U Tube videos. It is not fun, but satisfying when successful.
Best to avoid breaking the bolt stud in the beginning. Lots of your favorite spray (PB Blaster has many fans), heat applied, good wrench fit, and most important is limited torque in both on and off directions until you get turning freely.
I just thought of this: It should help to measure torque applied and limit to maybe half of the spec torque for the fastener. This might prevent over torque shearing of the stuck fastener while you apply more heat and spray cycles.
volvolugnut

[slickdizzy]

Hi,

Can you use those "easy outs" ?
I remember them from way back. You drill a hole in the center of the stud, then insert one of those things and use that to turn the bolt out.
They might call them something else too like "bolt extraction tool" or something else.

Certainly no way to get a drill in between the engine and firewall, I’m afraid, much less see well enough to get a straight shot. If the engine was on a stand out of the car or something, I would be much less worried about all this…

[abscate]

Thanks all. I am replacing the manifold with a Japanifold and swapping my old 15G turbo for a fresh 16T. If I end up with any broken turbo to manifold studs or similar, those I can deal with, as the parts that are coming off the car are not going back on. However I'll be up shit creek as they say if I break a stud off in the cylinder head!

I have already proactively started hitting all the nuts with PB Blaster every other day in preparation for the work (as best as I can, anyway, just kind of blindly spraying at the recess in the manifold where the nuts are because access isn't great from up top). I'm just going to keep at this process until I find time to get the car into the workshop and up on a lift to do the work, and hope that it all comes apart reasonably well...

Hi,

Can you use those "easy outs" ?
I remember them from way back. You drill a hole in the center of the stud, then insert one of those things and use that to turn the bolt out.
They might call them something else too like "bolt extraction tool" or something else.

Ez outs belong at the bottom the nearest lake. Bad tools. Bad. Very bad

[BEJinFbk]

Ez outs belong at the bottom the nearest lake. Bad tools. Bad. Very bad

Especially if you‘ve ever experienced the thrill
of one breaking off and getting to drill a hole in
hardened steel, so you can break off another one!

Lake? I’m thinking a quest to Mordor would be in order...