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2006 XC70 rear sub frame removal and bushing replacement Topic is solved

Help, Advice, Owners' Discussion and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's stylish, distinctive P2 platform cars sold as model years 2001-2007 (North American market year designations).

2001 - 2007 V70
2001 - 2004 V70 XC (Cross Country)
2004 - 2007 XC70 (Cross Country)
2001 - 2009 S60
2003 - 2007 S60 R
2004 - 2007 V70 R

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Rvolvos
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2006 XC70 rear sub frame removal and bushing replacement

Post by Rvolvos »

Since I have removed the rear differential and all the suspension components I wanted to replace some of the rear suspension bushings while I have everything apart.
The main reason for pulling the rear sub frame was for the upper control arm bushings (number 12). They were in worse shape than the trailing arm bushings.
I used a Jack adapter from Amazon (Performance Tool W41044 Transmission Jack Adapter for Cars, Trucks, and other Vehicles https://a.co/d/hkrAl5f) and was able to remove the rear subframe through the wheel well opening, while the car is on 6 ton jack stands. I pretty much followed the Vida procedure except I unbolted the charcoal cannister and Evap pump from the sub frame instead of disconnecting 17 year old hoses.

I already have replaced the trailing arm bushings, bushing 4 in the parts overview,(https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo- ... r-31277893) while the sub frame is still sitting on the Jack adapter.

I ended up modifying galvanized end caps. Al you need for tools is a 1/2” drill, drill and grinder with a flex disc. All parts can be purchased at Home Depot. See the pictures for the parts I purchased (FYI threaded rod I used was 6/17 thread, 1/2” was a backup plan) The small end cap needs the trough hole and the casting burr’s removed at the bottom.
The larger end cap burrs from the bottom, chamber on the bottom outside edge and the inner threads removed with the grinder to clear the bushing outer dimension. Make sure to apply grease to the threaded rod and washers.
The bushing went in smoothly with a bit of silicone spray and leaving the bushings in the freezer overnight. I did not want to risc it with plastic parts breaking half way and loosing the effect of putting the bushing in the freezer.
Also it is much easier to setup than with a heavy c-clamp and many loose parts. Tried this on other bushing replacements.

Bushings 12,5 and 7 need to replaced, waiting on the last FCP Euro shipment. Some of these bushings are not available or on back order.

Edit: if you are going to do the upper control arm bushings than buy a M12 threaded rod instead.
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Last edited by Rvolvos on 29 May 2023, 17:46, edited 7 times in total.
2006 XC70 2.5T 238k


2012 S60T6 95k rip
2011 C30 T5 M66 105k Totalled RIP
2006 V70 2.5T 184k RIP
2011 C30 T5 AW55-50SN 99k sold

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Blacklab467
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Post by Blacklab467 »

Please keep us informed on the progress, this is a job I may undertake this summer. Also if you could at some point provide a parts list and cost and time estimate for removal of suspension and drivetrain components. I assume that you are using Volvo parts and replacing bolts and hardware also? Thanks.
2003 XC 70 (sold)
2007 XC 70, 1970 Dodge Charger R/T.

vtl
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Post by vtl »

Volvo original bushings are very expensive. IPD sells them as a kit for $1.5k: https://www.ipdusa.com/products/11557/R ... lvo-125004

I've got a full set of aftermarket bushings from ebay: https://www.ebay.com/itm/224465835940 and https://www.ebay.com/itm/325557017129 They are made by MOOG and Delphi. Still undecided if I install them or toss in a bin and bust $1.5k.

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Blacklab467
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Post by Blacklab467 »

I'll check around on FCP and other sites, I'd prefer the Genuine Volvo parts as I've been burned with aftermarket quality almost without fault! It seems to me that many of those bolts and fasteners are one time use are they not? I priced out a few of those bolts and they are not cheap either. MOOG and Delphi may be worth the gamble, they were both reputable companies when I was in the trade 30 years ago, not sure if they are anymore, I do like those prices better though! Do they look like they're decent parts?
2003 XC 70 (sold)
2007 XC 70, 1970 Dodge Charger R/T.

vtl
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Post by vtl »

Blacklab467 wrote: 28 Mar 2023, 13:45 MOOG and Delphi may be worth the gamble, they were both reputable companies when I was in the trade 30 years ago, not sure if they are anymore, I do like those prices better though! Do they look like they're decent parts?
They appear visually on par with Lemforder bushings.

Rvolvos
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Post by Rvolvos »

Bushings 12,5 of the upper control arm replacement: (see picture 1)

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo- ... er-9173761
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo- ... r-31277899


Removing bushing 12 first allows you to remove the control arm. (Picture 5,6) the sleeve appears to made from a pvc like material.
Than push out bushing 5, (picture’s 4, 7, 8 )
Install a new bushing 5 first, (picture 9) I used silicone grease on the bushing.
Install bushing 12 in the same orientation, mark position beforehand. Meyle bushing don’t have an orientation mark (picture 10) silicone spray as lube.
Then pull in the control arm with the M12 threaded rod adapter from the Ares kit and bushing 12 bolted to the control arm with a M12x90 bolt and an end cap. (Picture 3, 11) make sure it is fully seated. See picture 12.

Vida instructions tell you to keep the arm in a position measuring from the sway bar. This is hard to do, but after installing, you can force the arm up and down , wearing down the serrated surface digging into the bushing and install at ride height when putting the complete suspension together.

Tools:
ARES 12072 – 14-Piece Ball Joint Press Adapter Expansion Set – Use with Starter Kit 12068 and for Master Kit Coverage – Services Ball Joints and U-Joints on 2WD and 4WD Vehicles https://a.co/d/eJlDqlt

M12 X 1.75 x 50mm Long Rod Metric Hex Coupling Nut, Zinc Plated 5 Pcs https://a.co/d/hguievh

Feelers 304 Stainless Steel M12-1.75 Fully All Threaded Rod, Long Threaded Screw, Right Hand Threads, 250mm Length https://a.co/d/fexNiGP

Other pieces purchased at Lowe’s and Home Depot.( Picture 2)
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2006 XC70 2.5T 238k


2012 S60T6 95k rip
2011 C30 T5 M66 105k Totalled RIP
2006 V70 2.5T 184k RIP
2011 C30 T5 AW55-50SN 99k sold

Rvolvos
Posts: 213
Joined: 1 April 2018
Year and Model: 2006 xc70
Location: Nevada
Has thanked: 73 times
Been thanked: 23 times

Post by Rvolvos »

Installing bushing 7: see picture 1, 2
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo- ... r-30748889

I tried to cut out the bushing but the saw was getting stuck and opted for simply pressing out the complete bushing. See picture 3, measure the install depth beforehand, other wise the arm will not fit in the opening.

Press in the new bushing, picture 4. Put it in the freezer beforehand and use silicone spray.
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Last edited by Rvolvos on 29 May 2023, 16:17, edited 3 times in total.
2006 XC70 2.5T 238k


2012 S60T6 95k rip
2011 C30 T5 M66 105k Totalled RIP
2006 V70 2.5T 184k RIP
2011 C30 T5 AW55-50SN 99k sold

Rvolvos
Posts: 213
Joined: 1 April 2018
Year and Model: 2006 xc70
Location: Nevada
Has thanked: 73 times
Been thanked: 23 times

Post by Rvolvos »

Installing bushing 9 into the knuckle.

https://spareto.com/products/meyle-cont ... 4-710-0009
Was not available at the time from FCP


I forgot to take pictures, but just press out the complete bushing.
And press in the new bushing. Make sure to putt them in the freezer and use silicone spray. And measure the install depth beforehand.

I used the sleeves in the yellow circle. I did this with a large c-clamp I purchased for this job. But it was very cumbersome. I would recommend using the the threaded rod instead.
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Last edited by Rvolvos on 29 May 2023, 16:14, edited 3 times in total.
2006 XC70 2.5T 238k


2012 S60T6 95k rip
2011 C30 T5 M66 105k Totalled RIP
2006 V70 2.5T 184k RIP
2011 C30 T5 AW55-50SN 99k sold

Rvolvos
Posts: 213
Joined: 1 April 2018
Year and Model: 2006 xc70
Location: Nevada
Has thanked: 73 times
Been thanked: 23 times

Post by Rvolvos »

Installing the subframe, I used the threaded nipples 1/2” x 2 and electrical tape the reduce the play to align the subframe. Picture 1

For setting the ride height before torquing down the suspension hard ware I marked the axle bolt and cut a wooden stick to length. Picture 2
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2006 XC70 2.5T 238k


2012 S60T6 95k rip
2011 C30 T5 M66 105k Totalled RIP
2006 V70 2.5T 184k RIP
2011 C30 T5 AW55-50SN 99k sold

Rvolvos
Posts: 213
Joined: 1 April 2018
Year and Model: 2006 xc70
Location: Nevada
Has thanked: 73 times
Been thanked: 23 times

Post by Rvolvos »

The car corners with confidence, happy with the outcome.

But I have also a v70r sway bar and a rear chassis brace (https://www.swedespeed.com/threads/diy- ... 70.246929/ with spacers) installed.

The other bushing were in much better shape than expected. If I had to do this again I would only do bushing 4, 12 and 5. And perhaps subframe bushing 3
The alignment was okay before and afterwards. See picture 1
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2006 XC70 2.5T 238k


2012 S60T6 95k rip
2011 C30 T5 M66 105k Totalled RIP
2006 V70 2.5T 184k RIP
2011 C30 T5 AW55-50SN 99k sold

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