I am continually surprised how inexpensive these are to maintain

Post by **wheelsup** » 31 May 2023, 21:36

OK I just jinxed myself but...

Bought Brembo rotors all four corners, Akebono pads up front and Volvo blue box pads in the rear 15 years ago from FCP Groton (remember the maroon and blue/yellow web site?). Here it is!

Here is page w/ brake components rotors...$34.50 for my ATE rotors I just bought, inflation adjusted $52 (paid $26 or something for them on sale).

Just replaced the rear rotors and pads...fronts were fine w/ about half life left on them.

$82(!). For ATE coated rotors and a brand called Pagid for pads which apparently is some sort of name-ish brand. They work great. Still had the bleed hose from 15 years ago as well as the plastilube or whatever it's called (anti-squeal lube) so only extra out of pocket was $12 for DOT 4 fluid and I bled all four corners.

I was going to replace the calipers but I couldn't get the brake line hose off. I tried PB Blaster, heat, more PB Blaster, etc. No dice. No leakage out of my current calipers so fingers crossed...maybe I will pay my mechanic to replace. Just don't want to ruin my new rotors and pads!

I didn't ask about lifetime replacement on them, my orders didn't go back that far on their new site. Too bad!!

BTW when I went to Autozone for the DOT 4 fluid, there was an old 240 in the lot where the employees park...high school kid! Ha.

Post by **FireFox31** » 31 May 2023, 22:32

Congratulations on having trouble-free breaks. That's not at all my experience so you're doing well.

wheelsup wrote: ↑31 May 2023, 21:36 I was going to replace the calipers but I couldn't get the brake line hose off.

Don't replace your calipers if they're working. Current rebuilt calipers are terrible and will quickly fail. Ensure that yours grab both sides of the rotor, there are no splits on the boots, and the pistons can be pressed back in with strong hands (with the bleeders open).

I suspect the hole for the fitting has expanded due to rust, grabbing the fitting. Removing the fitting will damage its threads so it won't fit in a new caliper (and because the old one is rusted, a new fitting won't fit in it). A new caliper will require a new fitting to be flared in place.

Post by **wheelsup** » 31 May 2023, 23:15

FireFox31 wrote: ↑31 May 2023, 22:32 Congratulations on having trouble-free breaks. That's not at all my experience so you're doing well.

wheelsup wrote: ↑31 May 2023, 21:36 I was going to replace the calipers but I couldn't get the brake line hose off.
Don't replace your calipers if they're working. Current rebuilt calipers are terrible and will quickly fail. Ensure that yours grab both sides of the rotor, there are no splits on the boots, and the pistons can be pressed back in with strong hands (with the bleeders open).

I suspect the hole for the fitting has expanded due to rust, grabbing the fitting. Removing the fitting will damage its threads so it won't fit in a new caliper (and because the old one is rusted, a new fitting won't fit in it). A new caliper will require a new fitting to be flared in place.

That's interesting you touch on flaring your own fitting. I've honestly never understood how the various different fittings "fit in" when I go to Home Depot etc. That would probably be a job I outsource to a reliable mechanic. I had some small holes in the rubber around where the top of piston/brake pad touch so it's probably only a matter of time.

To be completely honest, I hope to have a new car by that time. I ordered a Maverick in 2022, but it wasn't built, so will order again for next year. Hope they make it that long.

Also, couldn't you just replace with something like this?

Stainless Steel Brake Line Kit 1993-1998 P80 850 C70 S70 V70

Why the need to flare/make a new lineset?

Post by **abscate** » 01 Jun 2023, 02:53

A Neiko flare kit and some NiCopp is cheaper than a premade line. Flares are easy, even this guy can do them….

Post by **wheelsup** » 01 Jun 2023, 11:36

abscate wrote: ↑01 Jun 2023, 02:53 A Neiko flare kit and some NiCopp is cheaper than a premade line. Flares are easy, even this guy can do them….

It's too bad you're not closer to me, would love to share knowledge like this and have work-on-our-cars-days! Because I have no idea what you are talking about lol.

Post by **abscate** » 01 Jun 2023, 14:31

Reach out to bdub, he might be close to you.

Post by **bmdubya1198** » 01 Jun 2023, 19:06

abscate wrote: ↑01 Jun 2023, 14:31 Reach out to bdub, he might be close to you.

Bdub reporting...

This is basically the kit he's referring to https://www.amazon.com/OTC-4504-Stinger ... 111&sr=8-7

Can't find the Neiko one anymore, but this is the same thing. Works great to repair brake lines that have been mangled!

Post by **abscate** » 01 Jun 2023, 20:01

My Tar Heel Geography needs work. I forget that RTP and Charlotte are a hike apart

Post by **bmdubya1198** » 01 Jun 2023, 21:44

abscate wrote: ↑01 Jun 2023, 20:01 My Tar Heel Geography needs work. I forget that RTP and Charlotte are a hike apart

Yep, 3 hours or so depending on the area.

Post by **FireFox31** » 01 Jun 2023, 22:30

Flaring a new line is easier than replacing the line because you don't have to remove the old and bend the new to match. Simply cut off the old fitting as close to the end as possible, slip on the new one, then flare the line. The line will be a little shorter but that's usually ok.

Yes, I'm not describing the entire process. YouTube could walk you through it as it did for me. I've used this flaring skill a bunch in recent years due to stuck fittings (on Volvo) and rusted lines (on Mercedes).