Used B5234T sitting for 20+ years

[WhatAmIDoing]

So I was browsing marketplace and a Volvo timing sticker caught my eye. Ad was for a 1994 Volvo B5234T engine with less than 5k original miles, an auto trans from an 850 with axles, and all the associated accessories. I offered $500 (what I would have paid at a salvage yard for a complete engine with accessories) and picked it up. It spins freely with plenty of compression. Shoved a borescope down each hole. Can see crosshatch in all cylinders, 2 and 3 have a lot of carbon on the piston, 4 and 5 look brand new. Under the oil cap, machining mark are still visible on the cam, and the top end is spotless. The cap and rotor show some signs of wear, but mostly corrosion from sitting. Plug wires look original. Has a Volvo oil filter (haven't looked for a date yet). The turbo looks like it has never been run. Still have 2 boxes of parts to go through.

The gentleman I bought it from said it was from an old family friend who has since passed. Allegedly this engine was purchased from a scraper in 1994 and it came out of a '94 850 T5 (with obviously very low miles). Originally it was to be used to swap out the engine in his '93 850 NA (with a 5spd?). For some reason the engine never made it in to that car. Later an attempt was made to swap it into a custom automobile (either a race car or a rat rod), which is why everything is off of it. But they never got it running right, so it ended up being mostly for show. At some point it came out and got stuffed in a basement for at least 15 if not 20 or 25 years. Which is quite believable based on the corrosion and dirt accumulated. It was unclear whether the NA or the T5 was equipped with the M56, but a manual swap on a new car makes more sense than an engine swap, unless he wanted a manual T5 but I don't think those were in NA in 1994. So I do not know how many miles are on the auto trans I received. It looks more used than the engine.

Now I know the story is second and third hand info that can't be validated, but I saw no reason that this wasn't a low mileage engine. Even if it's not <5k miles, I doubt it's more than 25. And I doubted another opportunity would just fall into my lap like this and be available locally. I don't think I paid too much, but my luck recently has been pretty bad.

I'm going to be prepping this engine to go into my '98 S70 T5M, which also means converting it into a B5234T3. I know the ECU and turbo are different. Not sure if the manifolds are different (haven't had them side by side yet). I think the injectors are different. Are there any other differences between a B5234T and B5234T3? Are any of the accessories different between a '98 and '94 that will need swapped (trying to use as much of the low miles parts as possible / not tear down the other engine too much)?

The PCV hose is pretty hard, and the oil cap o-ring crumbled into dust, so I plan on replacing all the rubber hoses, o-rings, and timing belt. Should I also replace all the internal seals while the engine is out, or do you think they will be fine? Cam seals aren't too bad while in the car, but the RMS will be easiest to do now. I do have 1 in stock... somewhere. What other rubber bits am I forgetting about? Would you trust the timing components being nearly 30 years old with very little miles? I'm thinking I'll do a full timing service, but I've bought so many bad new parts this year. And timing isn't something I want to mess up. I'll give it a new PCV system, but debating using the original oil separator box (whatever it's called).

I've got photos on my phone to upload still. Looking forward to everyone's comments and insights on this latest adventure.

[wizechatmgr]

After all that? I think I'd do the valve stem seals, camshaft seals, rear and front seals, oil pump seal, etc. You'll be glad you did...

[scot850]

+1 on that. All rubber pipes and seals/gaskets. Injector seals as well. Time is not kind to rubber parts if they get to dry out.

Good luck. It is a turbo 850, but T5 designation? Not sure on that one. Interesting debate as Wikipedia lists it, from 1993. I don't think we got T5 or R's until 95 in North America. In 94 in Canada the turbo motors in wagons were called Sportwagons. Sorry, not trying to be pernickety here but certainly an interesting subject to me!

Either way I wish you good luck with this and it is definitely a very lucky find! Well done scooping it up!

Neil.

[volvolugnut]

Any way you could start this engine to check for no compression or cracks? Would be sad to do a bunch of work and find a big problem.
volvolugnut

[abscate]

You could crank it with the starter out of car to test compression but the lifters will likely be dry and I’m not sure how that impacts a compression test.

In a cool dry basement I would count on the rubber bring hood, just replace the easy stuff. Ou are so far ahead on this engine I wouldn’t blink if you had to pull it again as part of the refit and I think your risk is under 10% of that

[foggydogg]

Sounds like a good score for the money. I would change shelf life items on the front of the motor - including the water pump - and blue box would be safest, although some vendors are selling reboxed OEM for less. I've always thought valve stem seals were more miles and heat sensitive items rather than age; you've already 'scoped the motor, so pulling the head at this point would seem unnecessary.
I can't comment on the engine management stuff, since I've never done this sort of hands-on swap.
Robert doesn't often replace rear main seals unless there is obvious weeping, but since the motor is on the floor and the back of the block is naked, and you have the seal on the shelf, why not (mind the installed depth.)

[Chuck W]

Yes, do the valve stem seals while the engine is out of the car. Seriously. Also, do the oil pan o-rings too.

Seeing as your car is a 98, not really much extra to worry about in regards to the swap. Even the accessories and mounting should all be the same.

Swap your intake, injectors and your current exhaust/turbo and go (after you refreshed the seals, etc)

[WhatAmIDoing]

The engine was definitely stored in a damp basement, based on the level of surface corrosion. But the PO did a great job sealing it up before storage.

I'm not super thrilled about the idea of splitting apart a low mileage engine. Don't go looking for problems, because you just might make some. I will do the RMS, since I have one in stock. Will probably do the cam seals. Will do a full timing service, don't want to risk that.

Currently getting the outside cleaned up, then I'll blow out all the holes. Was planning on dumping a gallon of marvel mystery oil in it just to wash any debris down into the bottom of the pan and help get things lubed up. Also shoot a little oil down the cylinders. Will reattach the flywheel and starter so I can crank it over quickly and check compression (and possibly oil pressure). Unfortunately, I don't have the infrastructure to test run the engine outside of the car.

Now for some poorly taken pictures.

[Chuck W]

Do what you will, but it'll be 2-3x the hassle to do those valve seals when the engine is back in the car. The rear ones are a PITA.

[erikv11]

Probably wise to trust ChuckW for almost anything engine-related. Remember you can do the valve stem seals without pulling the head - I agree that it would be a shame to pull the head. Doesn't matter how careful you are, it will never go back on as well as it did at the factory.